一)Once cold, once warm 低温损害和高原灼伤
The ambient temperature is lowered by 6.5 ° C every 1000 merters increase in altitude, so it's no wonder that the summit of Everest temperatures regularly fall below -40 °
海拔高度每升高1000米,环境温度下降6.5摄氏度。因此,在珠峰顶上气温周期性地降到低于零下40摄氏度是件毫不奇怪的事情。
Mountain climbing is extensive periods of intense boredom interrupted by occasional moments of panic fear.
登山活动是偶尔会被突发的恐慌打断的漫长无趣过程的组合体。

Anonymous climber 匿名的登山者
TEMPERATURE 温度
The ambient temperature is lowered by 6.5 ° C every 1000 feet increase in altitude., So it's no wonder that the summit of Everest temperatures regularly fall below -40 ° C. Under these conditions, there is a huge demand for calories, our bodies can avoid hypothermia (hypothermia - a fall in body core temperature below 35 ˚ C) only if they receive appropriate calorie diet. Protecting themselves against low temperatures, remember that the air insulates well, so several layers of clothing to protect against the cold better than one thick.
海拔高度每升高1000英尺(304.8米),环境温度下降6.5摄氏度。因此,在珠峰顶上气温周期性地降到低于零下40摄氏度是件毫不奇怪的事情。在这种情形下,身体需要大量的热量。只有在适当的含热量饮食前提下,我们的身体才可以避免体温过低(身体核心温度降低到35摄氏度以下)。为避免低温伤害,请确保有效地隔离空气。也因此,多层衣服御寒效果好过一件厚衣服。
Wind 风
The inquisitive might underestimate frost on Everest, giving counterexamples much lower temperatures recorded in the polar areas (the lowest temperature recorded on Earth is -89 ° C at the Russian Antarctic research station Vostok). But factor in deciding that, however, Everest and other peaks eightthousander are more inaccessible and dangerous for human health, is the wind. You do not need to go to the mountains high to learn this lesson. When we go for a walk in a winter Sunday, cold but windless morning, it is - provided that we are well dressed - even temperature of -30 ° C does not make a big impression on us. When this is accompanied by an aura of calm sunshine, but snow crackling under his feet tells us how low a temperature. But when the same temperature will be accompanied by a slight wind (16 km / h), the human body feels lowering the temperature to about -45 ° C! When the wind starts to even more eccentric (40 km / h), the subjective feeling cold becomes unbearable, in fact amounts to approximately -70 ° C!
由于极地录得的低温记录(地球上的低温记录由俄国南极Vostok考察站录得,零下89摄氏度),好奇的人们可能会因这个反例而低估珠峰上的冻伤。但是,尽管珠峰和其他八千米山峰更难以为人类所接近,然而对人类健康的危害的决定性因素是风。你并不需要攀到这个高度以学到这些。当我们在冬季一个寒冷但无风的周末散步时,由于服装适宜,即使气温低到零下30摄氏度,这样的天气也不会对身体有大的影响。尤其是有暖人的阳光时,只有脚踏在雪上的声音提醒我们气温是如何的低。在相同的环境温度下,但有微风(风速为16千米/小)时,身体感受到的温度接近零下45摄氏度左右。当风变得更大(40千米/小时),主观上感受到的寒冷将变得无法忍受,事实上,相当于零下70摄氏度左右。
Since the height of 7000-8000 m above sea level the air is much thinner than at sea level, hurricane blowing in the wind (eg, 150 km / h) has less power than the same wind at lower altitudes. The force with which the wind acts on the human or tent is lower, but its speed is still 150 km / h, which makes the crumbs kidnapped by the wind snow ice or iced smagają face with great force.
由于海拔7000到8000米的高度上空气比海平面稀薄,因此这个高度上的飓风(比如,风速为150千米/小时)的风力要低于低海拔地带。事实上,这样的高度上,风力对人体或帐篷的影响也比较小。但是风速依然为150千米/小时,这使那些被风卷起的碎屑,如击打到面部的冰雪等,依然具有很大的力量。
Frostbites 冻伤
Freezing of the skin in such cold air is able to prevent only an adequate number of warm blood. Meanwhile, the body, with limited stocks and the possibility of bringing warmth to any part of your body, warm blood starts to regulate. The first victims are the hands, feet, nose, ears. Why? Their ratio of surface area to volume is very large - the body is not "worth" is wasted on it's limited reserves. He devotes so these parts of the body to maintain warmth in the central (responsible for the most important functions of life) parts of the human body.
在如此寒冷的情况下,唯一能防止皮肤冻伤的是充足的温暖的血液。期间,储量有限的血液,和能把热量带到身体任何部位的人体开始自我调节。最先的牺牲品是受,足,鼻子,耳朵。原因在于,这些部位的表面积和体积的比率非常之高-身体不值得为此浪费有限的储备。身体竭尽全力维持人体中心部位的体温(这些部位保证人体维持生命过程中最重要的功能)
As we all know, the human body is composed of 80% water, which if frozen in the human body creates ice crystals. As a result, damage to the cells and platelets adhere to one another, which in turn leads to the formation of blockages of blood. Formed in the ischemic necrosis of the body.
正如我们所知,人体内水的含量为80%。如果人体发生冷冻,将产生冰晶。其结果是,细胞受损,血小板连接在一起,并导致血液堵塞的发生。形成人体缺血性坏死。
How to protect yourself from frostbite? Preferably through a proper dress. It must meet four basic functions:
那么,如何防止身体的冻伤?适当的穿衣。这样的服装必须满足4项基本功能。
• Protect against the wind - windproof materials: Gore Tex, Wind Stopper, Wind Block etc
防风—防风材料包括:Gore Tex, Wind Stopper, Wind Block 等
• Protect from moisture - avoid wool, which keeps moisture (but not for modern, with appropriate proportions of mixtures of wool with synthetics)
防湿—避免选用毛织品,毛织品能保持水分(但不包括现代的和人工材料适当混合的毛织品)
• Thermally well insulated - a good method is to dress the onion: the air between the layers of our clothes also thermally insulates
绝热—最好的着衣方法就像洋葱一样,衣服之间的隔层中的空气同样绝热。
• Does not hamper the movements, not to oppression - attire not interfere with climbing or be too tight, which hinders the free flow of blood between the body parts.
不妨碍运动,也不压迫身体—服装不应妨碍攀登,也不能太紧,太紧的衣服妨碍血液的自由流动。
But what to do once you have bit zmarzliśmy and we intend to restore the circulation in the frozen parts of the body? Well then come to the aid gel heaters that operate by way of a chemical reaction with air (oxygen). Give off heat for 10 hours and could reach a maximum temperature of 60 ° C.
但是,当感到寒冷(文中有几处出现波兰语单词,猜测意思如此。),我们试图恢复冻伤部位的血液循环时,该如何?借助于aid gel heater,一种和空气发生化学反应产生热量的胶体加热器。可以连续发热10小时,最高温度可达60摄氏度。
Sunlight / ultraviolet radiation
阳光/紫外辐射
Often, high mountains, such as the Himalayas, often associated with high frost, cold. It's true. However, in the high mountains as often occurs to burn! Sun damages even stronger in winter than in summer, and this in conjunction with dilution air at low temperatures, effects of the sun on the dry, fat-free natural skin protection. In addition, the sun reflected from the snow, "God gives us" UVA and UVB (snow reflects more than 80 percent of UVA and UVB rays!).
比如喜马拉雅山系之类的高山地带,通常和严寒和冻伤有关。确实如此,但是在这些地方,同样会发生灼伤。阳光在冬季造成的伤害比夏季更严重,这和低温状态的稀薄空气有关,还和干燥的无脂肪的护肤品有关。此外,还有积雪反射的阳光,也就是上帝给予我们的UVA(长波紫外线) 和UVB(短波紫外线)(雪可以反射超过80%的UVA和UVB辐射)
Permeability of UV radiation through the atmosphere increases by 4% at 300 meters above sea level. In the case of the high mountains of the radiation intensity increases, so tens of percent! Therefore, it is necessary to adequate protection from the sun:
在海拔高度300米时,紫外线穿过大气时,渗透率提高了4%(和海平面相比),在高海拔地带,渗透率的提升达到数十个百分比。因此,适当的防护是必须的。
• Creams - because the radiation is particularly strong, creams filter must be at least 40 We must especially remember the lubricant ears, chin, and paragraph
面霜—由于辐射强烈,面霜至少应过滤掉40%的辐射。尤其是不能忘记在耳朵,下巴,和颈部涂抹。
• Glasses - often underestimated part of the garment climber; glasses of poor quality can lead to snow blindness. Select sunglasses category 4 (European standard defines the eye in terms of light transmission - the number 4 means that the glasses block over 90% of the radiation). For greater expedition we should always have spare glasses!
太阳镜—这一点经常会被忽略。低品质的太阳镜能导致雪盲。选择sunglasses category 4(第四类太阳镜,欧标按照入射到眼睛的光线来定义—这类眼镜阻止超过90%的辐射)。对于大型探险活动来说,我们总是要携带备用眼镜。
• Goggles - serve as an alternative to glasses, especially important during the blizzard, snow zadymek. Like the glasses should have a fourth degree of light transmission.
护目镜——担任太阳镜的替代品。尤其在暴风雪中非常重要。选择标准同太阳镜。
• Dress - inappropriate (too thick) can dress in warm weather lead to heat stroke, which is the main cause of the imbalance in heat. As a result, overheating occurs, weakening or even loss of consciousness.
服装—不适当的服装(太厚)在温暖的天气里将导致中暑。主要原因在于热不平衡。结果是产生过热,导致虚弱甚至休克。
Text and photos: Martin Miotk
图文作者:Martin Miotk
"Mountains", No. 8 (147) 2006
from yatyat.
关于Martin Miotk,请YATYAT同学补充。
备注:文中有部分波兰语单词,据YATYAT同学所说,这些文章的原文是波兰语,因此翻译过程中,难免需要猜词,因此会产生理解上的偏差,欢迎读过原文的同学指正。下同。