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旧帖 2013-10-11 13:08:05
Post #1
纵贯东北行记 - Into the Northeast (pics and tips)
 
南樵 离线 南樵

纵贯东北行记 - Into the Northeast (pics and tips)

As we know, the northeast of China has impressed people very much with his comedy, snow world, abundant resource and strong industrial background. But, to the realtravellers the vast plain and endless forest are also the important landscapes in relation to the lives there.

In this autumn, it will certainly perform beautiful lakes and colorful leaves within the wonderful landscapes under the clean sky, since we were coming into the northeast!
 
虽然已经饱览过北疆高纬度秋季的斑斓浓烈,但辽阔的东北始终是自己旅行计划中没有翻阅过的篇章。
抱着一睹东北深秋的心情,从8月我们就开始了纵贯东北的筹划。最困难的行程安排占据了大量准备时间,如何将心目中值得流连的风景串起来让人煞费苦心。火车、穿越、包车、公交各种方式都反复比较考虑过之后,最终我决定采取租车自驾的方式。事实上,如此漫长的路线没有可控的交通方式,几乎是不可能完成的。
 
After a long time thinking over weeks, I gave up the arrangment of train, trekking, rent car, commuting..., and chose self-driving to accomplish the plan. Otherwise, we cannot carry on such a long route in 12 days.
 
路线 - Route:
 
哈尔滨-黑河-(瑷珲、逊克)-嘉荫-伊春-(汤旺河)-佳木斯-兴凯湖-镜泊湖-(松花湖)-蛟河-(榆树沟)-松江镇-(长白山)-漫江镇-(鸭绿江)-临江市-沈阳
Haerbin City-Heihe City-(Aihui and Xunke County)-Jiayin County-(Tangwang River)-Jiamusi City-Xingkai Lake-(Songhua River)-Jiaohe County-(Yushu Village)-Songjiang County-(Changbai Mountatin)-Manjiang County-(Yalu River)-Linjiang City-Shenyang City
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
The calling up link:
http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/english/978661,0,0,0.html

南樵 于 2015-10-16 09:13:36 编辑

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-12 09:27:15
Post #2
Re: Into the Northeast (route pics and tips) - 纵贯东北 ...
 
wonderfulhuhao 离线 wonderfulhuhao 中英文对照,令人陶醉的如油画般的风景!美不胜收!
 
旧帖 2013-10-12 09:41:32
Post #3
Re: Into the Northeast (route pics and tips) - 纵贯东北 ...
 
白堤 离线 白堤 占位看片。
 
旧帖 2013-10-12 09:56:56
Post #4
Re: Into the Northeast (route pics and tips) - ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 Somebody reminded me that I should paste some greatest pics at post #1.
That's a good idea to share more with friends!
 
玩一趟回来写点作业是想给自己留个纪念,不过和朋友们一起分享路上的快乐和感受,亦无不可啊。
贴几张自己还挺喜欢的到前边吧!
 

 




南樵 于 2013-10-14 21:55:41 编辑

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-12 12:49:08
Post #5
Re: Into the Northeast (route pics and tips) - 纵贯东北 ...
 
晴天娃娃 离线 晴天娃娃 赞队长速度。。
果然一如既往滴图文并茂。。鼓掌。。

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愿时光清浅,许你晴天!

 
旧帖 2013-10-14 14:56:06
Post #6
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
秋天的落叶@ 离线 秋天的落叶@ 看开头,刚准备搬凳子坐下好好欣赏领队的杰作,咋就烂尾了捏,掌声邀请继续放毒、、、、、。

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背后的公路延伸于无限,我们的双眼同样未知,困惑的一定不只是我,是所有的世人。

 
旧帖 2013-10-15 10:51:45
Post #7
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
晴天娃娃 离线 晴天娃娃 呃...费用表出来了. 借队长宝地发一下...
费用表中只算行程中产生的费用, 个人来回东北的费用排除在外, 因为各自的交通工具不同, 有飞机,有火车.
PS: 感冒感得人都是晕了, 有些住宿的地方忘记了. 大家自己找回记忆吧...sad

附件:东北行费用一览表-1.xls

晴天娃娃 于 2013-10-15 11:01:47 编辑

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愿时光清浅,许你晴天!

 
旧帖 2013-10-15 11:48:49
Post #8
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 Every delightful trip should have a good start! As I can see, Harbin is a good choice for our journey, since the cold air will certainly invade into northeastern china during the period and we should keep ahead from north to south.
 
因为天气和路线的原因,我们的旅程从哈尔滨开始。
很多人疑惑,我们为什么会在一个既不用避暑也看不到雪的季节到哈尔滨。
其实是君心不在此,在乎东北的山水之间。
 

索菲亚教堂 - the sophia cathedral
 
Almost all the people there will visit the Sophia cathedral. It add an exotic atmosphere to the northern metropolis.
很多人会喜欢这种异域风情,让一个城市的格调不太沉闷。不过这个教堂存在的原因,可不像佛教那样由中国历史上的王朝兼容并包而来。这些拜占庭式的建筑,是经过漫长的历史,沿着沙俄向东向南的脚步来到中国。
 

穹顶 - dome
 
That's a typical dome of byzantium which was recreated by russian after Tsar admited the part of declining the orthodox hundreds years ago.
这个洋葱头式的顶部,是俄罗斯人对拜占庭风格建筑的独特创造。在拜占庭帝国没落之后,东正教却在沙俄找到救命稻草。沙皇的鼎立支持让东正教在俄罗斯复活,发扬光大。
 

白鸽 - Dove
 
I don't know why people regard dove as the symbol of peace. Maybe it comes from some grecian tales. The film of Wu Yusen always add doves into stories of the violence and bloodshed.
 

 
Sometimes I think people should look back on the past and struggle to win the total peace ever if I often think about history and future pessimistically.
这位小朋友在广场上玩耍,看自己的影子,跟大人学着喂鸽子,围绕她的是开心快乐的童年时光~~
希望平静的生活永在,不要因为阴谋和贪婪而破灭。

TIPS:
就在索菲亚大教堂对面,有一个道里区集贸市场。里边有很多东北特色的副食品,比如:格瓦斯、列巴、大饼、红肠之类的。最夸张的是哈尔滨红肠,某些品种居然有小腿粗,估计只有食堂餐馆才会买这么大号的红肠吧?!哈尔滨的格瓦斯貌似很不错,这一路上大伙喝了不少。不过我已经禁酒了,呵呵。
南樵 于 2013-11-20 15:43:32 编辑

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-15 12:49:33
Post #9
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵
晴天娃娃 wrote:



连饼图都做出来了,咱们财务真是高端大气上档次啊!
不知道磨房会不会评选十佳财务,值得推荐big smilebig smilebig smile

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-15 18:13:54
Post #10
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
东*南 离线 东*南 又重温那斑斓缤纷的秋色,一路的欢笑与“哇塞”“哇塞”grin
 
旧帖 2013-10-15 18:17:53
Post #11
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
东*南 离线 东*南
晴天娃娃 wrote:
呃...费用表出来了. 借队长宝地发一下...



晴天的财务越来越纯熟直观呀!辛苦了,赞一个
 
旧帖 2013-10-16 10:25:22
Post #12
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 D1: Harbin-Heihe
第一天的路程简单说就是,一路向北!
 

 
Landform of northeast is not as flat as the plain of Xinjiang. The terrain here has more or less fluctuations. And it looks good.
东北农村普遍采用隔热的彩钢板屋顶,远远看着在原野中很鲜艳。
起伏的地形也让风景更多了一点立体感。
 

 
我们从哈尔滨出发沿着高速经过了绥化、海伦、北安,直到黑河。中午在北安吃饭的时候,大家对著名收费景区五大连池表达了无所谓的态度,而时间偏紧,干脆就此略过。
 
真正的风景都在路上!
在后边的旅行中,我们会一再证实这一点!
 
The huge chimneies are the cooling unit of a generator of coal power. We met them when we had the lunch in suburbs of Beian.
 

 
东北大地,铁路发达,火车很多,多到我们开始筹划时,曾经想依靠火车完成这次东北旅行。
If you have enough time, train is a good vehicle to choose to travel all around the northeast.
 

 
远处落日的余晖,穿过广袤的原野,落在这一片山头之上,把秋天的草木映红。
 

 
That's the first sunset in our trip.
Not too bad!
I'm looking forward to more wonderful twilights.

TIPS:
总体说东北餐饮的份量都很大,所以不能按照在南方的概念来点菜,基本上按人数点菜就是极限了。最好是先点菜吃上,不够再点再上。东北菜普遍偏咸。
南樵 于 2013-11-08 09:17:02 编辑

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-16 11:50:17
Post #13
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 我们没有计划到漠河,因此黑河就是此行的最北端了。
 
Heihe city is located beside Heilong river and the most northern point of our route.
The other side of Heilong river, where has a china name of Hailanpao in past, but now, is terrain of Russia after a long history.
 

  

 
黑河市沿着黑龙江边都是绿化休闲带,并在江中沙渚上建了一个大黑河公园,供市民休闲娱乐。
 

 

 
站在黑龙江边,对岸就是俄罗斯的无线通信铁塔、工厂烟囱。沙俄曾经在这块原本叫海兰泡的土地上制造了海兰泡大屠杀。原本在这片辽阔土地上耕种生活的数千中国青壮妇孺老幼,或被枪击,或被屠杀,倒毙在黑龙江江边。
Here is hailanpao, the other side of Heilong river. More than a handred years ago, Tsar dynasty invaded into the place and slaughtered thousands of people of china there. In history, it's name as Hailanpao Slaughter.
 

 
中国这一侧明显楼房更密集,还有一些港口航运。

 
Nowadays, China side is prosperous with better construction and harbor. Russian side looks like scarce of population and lack of development yet.
 
话说在清王朝早期,中国在边界争端上并未落于下风。
毕竟贝加尔湖以东、黑龙江以北的几百万平方公里,对于沙俄来说是一块垂涎已久,但从地理上却遥不可及的肥肉。多次的边界斗争,清王朝基本上守卫住了自己的领土。
不过很明显的是,在那个历史时期,沙俄处于急速扩张,而清王朝处于固守。

Simple defence can not win any war if the enemy make up his mind to kill you.
After hundreds of year, finally, the expansion of Tsar dynasty beated the defence of Qing dynasty. They occupied millions of squ. KM land by conflict, slaughter, war, bribery, diplomacy dispution, etc.
南樵 于 2013-10-16 13:07:34 编辑

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-16 14:12:07
Post #14
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
汗马60 离线 汗马60 图文并茂,包括晴天的报表,也是那么详尽清楚,辛苦了!
走过了,再回头看看,再找回那感觉。
 
旧帖 2013-10-16 14:14:28
Post #15
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 Tips:
 
秋季行走东北安排行程需考虑日照因素,这时候东北白天亮得依然很早,但黑得很快,基本上在5:30-17:30之间。从哈尔滨到黑河600KM左右,几乎全程高速,但如果要去五大连池需额外3小时左右,实际很难在天黑到达黑河,唯一办法就是早走快跑。
 
In autumn, day is turning short and short, generally from 5:30AM to17:30PM.
Any travel in northeast of china should think over the time window, otherwise, the night will interrupt your joyful daylight trip sooner or later.
 


黑龙江畔两只肥肥的水鸭,迎着晨光梳理羽毛。
 

 
高亮的明黄色调映衬下,天空的蓝色变得有点过了。

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-16 14:21:59
Post #16
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵
秋天的落叶@ wrote:
看开头,刚准备搬凳子坐下好好欣赏领队的杰作,咋就烂尾了捏,掌声邀请继续放毒、、、、、。

 
汗马60 wrote:
图文并茂,包括晴天的报表,也是那么详尽清楚,辛苦了!
走过了,再回头看看,再找回那感觉。

 
哈哈,都回来了!
秋天的落叶太符合东北深秋旅行了。
我们都等着看本溪那边更深的秋色啊!

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-16 14:53:04
Post #17
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
汗马60 离线 汗马60
晴天娃娃 wrote:

PS: 感冒感得人都是晕了, 有些住宿的地方忘记了. 大家自己找回记忆吧...sad



 
吃饭住宿的地方,GPS数据里都有记录。可以顺着轨迹找回忆。big smile
 
旧帖 2013-10-17 09:31:57
Post #18
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 四道沟,以前磨房游记曾经提到过。我们没有刻意去重复,但从黑河出来后,沿路走到一处屋舍、树林俱佳之处。下车才发现正是四道沟。哈哈,既来之,则安之吧!
 
Ravine No.4, about 10 KM far away from Heihe city, is a good place with tall white birch forest and flowing Heilong river. It is a sunny day, when we got there. The golden ray shone through the fall leaves under the sun.
 

 

 
 
In summer, a big flood came to this area and left a huge loss to chinese and russian. We could see the relic of disaster beside the river. Now it recover little by little.
 

 

 
月亮也来凑热闹,不让晴朗天空独美。
 


TIPS:
四道沟我们没有找到食宿,所以只能路过。如果后来的筒子要解决吃住,只能去瑷珲或者返回黑河。
南樵 于 2013-11-08 09:18:45 编辑

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-17 14:59:56
Post #19
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 That's a sunshine day with breeze!


 
 
这个只能算是红叶,不是枫叶!
等我们看到真正的枫叶已经到榆树沟和长白山了。
 
 
 
 
这种老玉米好看不好吃,基本上都是拿来加工的。
 
 
这架客机想必是来往俄罗斯的国际航班,否则不应在边境线上空飞过。
30年前,前苏联曾经在已经明确是客机的情况下,命令击落了一架偏离导航的韩国国际航班,数百人不幸罹难,导致了轰动一时的国际事件。
苏共做事心狠手辣的风格,由此可窥一斑。
 
南樵 于 2019-04-25 13:07:36 编辑

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Exploring The World!   Exploring The Heart!

 
旧帖 2013-10-17 16:23:20
Post #20
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 瑷珲,一个中国近代史上著名的地方!
从清初康熙年间,中俄就在瑷珲附近雅克萨进行了激烈的雅克萨战役。战役的结果直接决定了“中俄尼布楚条约”的签订,虽然清朝守住了大部分既有领土,但在北方,当时看来蛮荒的不毛之地却归了老毛子。这为后来老毛子向东向南扩张留下伏笔。
 
Aihui City - a famous place of china history
About 200 years ago, army of Qing daynasty fighted here with Tsar's army and win the war of Yakesa, which came to the first treaty of NIbuchu. Emperor Kangxi maintained his land and people, but the vast place north to here, with no landlord before, became the base of Tsar dynasty towards eastern asia.
 

 
很多人都听过流行歌曲中唱到,“蓝脸的窦尔敦,盗御马”。
其实窦尔敦同志一生最大的功绩不在于早年坚持反清斗争,甚至敢潜入围场盗御马,干出轰动一时的大事件。他一生的最伟大的事迹,却是在发配北方边陲后,率领民众,参与了清军反抗沙俄侵略的多次斗争。
 
瑷珲城,就是窦尔敦同志曾经生活、战斗、抛洒热血的地方。
传说此地还有不少窦尔敦的后人,和以他命名的地方。
 
Dou Erdun, a great hero of Qing dynasty, once joined the fight to Tsar's invasion. Mr. Dou, with great china Kongfu of one-to-one fighting, did a essential role in many battles.
With respect to his fighting stories, people ignored his long time resistance to government as a young man and commemorate him as a hero.
 

 
事实上,瑷珲就曾经被沙俄几次血洗。
照片上的两个建筑是唯一遗留到今天的中式建筑,但不知为何魁星阁要推到重建成这幅摸样。
 
与瑷珲隔江东岸的江东六十四屯,当年曾经发生过“著名的江东六十四屯惨案”。长期在此耕种生活的中国百姓,在清廷屈服外来压力抛弃他们之后,被沙俄军队屠杀,黑龙江盈满滔滔鲜血。
 
On the other side of heilong river to aihui city, is JIangdong 64 counties, where thousands people lived there in history. When weak Qing dynasty abandoned them, the Tsar's army acted a bloody slaughter all over the places.
 

 
这些玉米地被水淹了。
很难想象将近一个月前的洪水,能许久不退如此。幸好东北地广人稀,就算庄稼受灾,也仍然是略微欠收而已。
 
The flood, a month ago, violently passed through here and left these pools.
 

 
 
 
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瑷珲条约是中俄关系上,一个具有决定性意义的条约!
中国不但失去了黑龙江以北、外兴安岭以南(即外东北)约60万平方公里的领土(是中国近代史上一次性割让领土最多的条约),更重要的是失去了黑龙江的出海口和海参崴。北京条约更惨重,但根源上其实只是更加深化了瑷珲条约的节奏。中国在东北从此没有出海口,中国失去了面向日本海的话语权,东北亚此后150年的格局基本奠定,而且还将继续。
 

 
以我的一点浅见,日本在战后对中国而言,实不足惧。就算欧巴桑狡诈险恶,一时不能压服,还有对面的山姆哥拉着套索,还有国际环境约束着,更何况现在的局势早已今非昔比。教训教训欧巴桑,其实是转移国人视线,耍耍威风,拉拢人气的方便法门。但卧榻之侧其容他人安寝,更高寒的北极熊才是百年大忌!
 
跑题了!到此为止吧!
南樵 于 2013-11-04 17:28:56 编辑

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旧帖 2013-10-21 10:40:56
Post #21
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 话说从瑷珲出来,沿着黑龙江向东南,一路风光旖旎!
湿地、丛林、田野交替出现,风景乍现之处,让人心旷神怡。
 

 
 
We traveled along with the Heilong River and see the wonderful landscapes as if the daylight has no end. Actually, the great views make our time shorter and shorter. If you come after us someday, I advice you make a elastic schedule for this way from Heihe-Jiayin.
 
 
 
This is the first time I met mature red sorghum.
When I was young, a film named as Red Sorghum about the life of northwest and war against japanese invasion,  was popular and won a famous prize of film festival.
From them on, I has a well imagination of red sorghum.
But at the first sight, the mature deep red shocked me very much yet.



  
南樵 于 2013-10-21 11:04:12 编辑

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旧帖 2013-10-21 11:19:04
Post #22
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 风景无敌的瓢虫山!
本来这是个不知道地名的地方,但我觉得应该有个名字,否则太对不起这么好的风景了。因为我们在山上停车时候,山阴一边岩土上停满了无数瓢虫,所以就暂且叫它瓢虫山吧,呵呵~~
 
Ladybug Mountain!
I gave the name to this beautiful place, because we met millions of ladybug there. The insects aggregated in the shade of sun and seemed like quite terrible.

 
 
The plants on the ladybug mountain were very flourishing and you could see a very grand sight there.
 
 
 
远处流淌的是黑龙江,这一段仍然是中俄界河。
 
 
更高的地形,更充足阳光,让这山上的植物颜色更加五彩斑斓,仿佛油画一般。
 
 

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旧帖 2013-10-21 11:38:08
Post #23
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 TIPS:
瓢虫山大约离瑷珲城35KM左右,在驶离黑龙江不久就能看到一个山头。瓢虫山西侧的风景不如东侧,一个是因为东侧植物更繁盛,色彩丰富,另一个是东侧远眺黑龙江非常漂亮。
 
About 35KM away from Aihui City, there is what I said ladybug mountain. Because of the geographic and ecologic reasons, the eastern side looks like more beautiful than western side. And you can have a better sight of Heilong River.

在这附近的路段,手机会收到俄罗斯的信号。建议开通了国际漫游的筒子务必小心。按常理,俄罗斯在远东的移动通信费用会比较高昂。
 
Take care! If you see a russian mobile signal symbol, don't dail out or link the internet. Crossing russian signal will be paid more expensive.

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旧帖 2013-10-21 12:18:13
Post #24
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
shenz2008 离线 shenz2008 看帖是种享受!回帖是种欣赏!!

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变焦基本靠走,对焦基本靠手,虚化基本靠抖,防抖基本靠肘,测光基本靠瞅。

 
旧帖 2013-10-21 17:23:33
Post #25
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵
shenz2008 wrote:
看帖是种享受!回帖是种欣赏!!


看您的签名档,应是色中高手啊!

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