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旧帖 2013-10-30 15:15:41
Post #51
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵

Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...

当天下午我们的车胎出了故障。一位硬挤上搭顺风车的许师傅结果反而为我们换胎,找修车店,替我们帮里大忙。有时候人与人的缘分是很微妙的。我开玩笑说,许师傅就是命中注定在闸口等着来帮我们的。
  

 
There is a huge farm at Xinkai Lake, which once was controled by beijing directly. At that time, the soldiers were major of worker of the farm. They cultivated the fields and watched the situation at another side of boundary also. 
 
 
第二天早上,我们本来计划要去中俄边界上的哨所。但几乎所有人遇到的人都告诉我们边防部队现在管得很严,已经不允许外人进入,特别是登上瞭望哨看风景。因此我希望能去到的边界上的龙王庙就更不用提了。
 
The watchingtower, at the frontier area, now is forbidden to climb up by visitors. We had to drive to the farming field to kill the morning time.
 
 
 
It was cloudy and rainny in the morning, not like the sunny day before.
事实上,这正是我一直在期待着的降温过程。这将让后几天在山区的旅行,看到更深更斑斓的秋色。
 
 
In fact, I was looking forward to cold current. It will accelerate the changing of color of leaves in the northeastern land. 
 
 
 
不过,降温降雨的到来,让我们前一天看到的美丽秋色,在萧瑟秋风中大为失色。 
 


兴凯湖农场的场区非常大,各项设施一应俱全。这块石碑就放在兴凯湖广场边。“一日不作,一日不食”,是当年百丈禅师深刻预见不务稼樯的弊端后,率领僧众立下的誓约。这个自力更生的办法,让佛教度过了历史上的几次大灾难,延续了一脉香烟。
但是很可惜,现在不少庙里的“专业”僧人享受着来自四面八方的供养,却不依戒律,好逸恶劳,早把释迦牟尼订立的清规忘得干干净净。

南樵 于 2013-11-06 10:46:20 编辑

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旧帖 2013-10-30 15:17:56
Post #52
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 兴凯湖曾是隶属北京直管的农垦兵团区域,据说当年还有个监狱就设在这边。所以,兴凯湖当地很多人都不是东北本地,其中不少是北京人。黑龙江的农垦改制吆喝多年没有结果,其实跟它复杂的历史渊源有很大关系。


 
看起来兴凯湖农场已经抢在降温之前将大片的田地收割完成。
 
 
 
昨天五彩斑斓的大堤公路,在风雨中彻底凌乱了。
 
 
兴凯湖的大湖,风高浪急,灰色的波涛阵阵冲上沙滩。
 
 
Wetland of Xinkai Lake
 
 
A few hours after we left Xinkai Lake, it got to be clear and a big rainbow display beside the expressway.
南樵 于 2019-04-25 11:59:41 编辑

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旧帖 2013-10-31 22:13:47
Post #53
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
南樵 离线 南樵 TIPS:
1、兴凯湖农场的小秦饭店做的饭菜还不错,当然还是有点咸,不过菜品还是很不错的。一大盘炸小鱼,味道很不错,但菜量很多,居然最后没吃完可惜了;
2、兴凯湖场区有很多私人住宿,而且旅游旺季在暑期,国庆期间找住宿不会太难;
3、去连队吃白鱼,完全没有必要。至少对于我这样一个非吃货来说,平均一人花将近200元,去吃一个口碑一般般的白鱼,实在没有任何诱惑力;
4、在第二湖闸有渔民村落,不愿意到农场场部食宿的童鞋,可以就在村里找;
5、边防已经不允许外人进入,当地人都说没有熟人根本进不去,所以边防区无法参观,更不用说和俄罗斯大兵隔线对望了;
6、兴凯湖博物馆,现在门票35一人,个人感觉不值得看;
7、大堤和西岸的湿地我认为是兴凯湖自然风光的精华部分,东边农场这边也很壮观,但需要一个好天气。

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旧帖 2013-10-31 22:20:30
Post #54
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵
 
Cold current attacked the Xinkai Lake in the night.
When we left there in the morning, sun ray penetrated the thick cloud with great effort.
 
 
 
About 100KM away from the lake, it turned to be clear and getting warmmer.
 
 
At the back of a service station, I got a great angle to take the photo above.
The cold current should have passed by and the rest route would be fine and safe.
 
 
Thick cloud covered the earth with a tremendous momentum.
但无论各种风云雷电,辽阔大地却任其恣意蓬勃,以厚德载物,无私地滋养万物。
 
南樵 于 2013-11-04 10:10:34 编辑

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旧帖 2013-10-31 22:23:16
Post #55
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 从兴凯湖到镜泊湖这一路,风景不光在地上,也在天上。
寒潮抚过大地,天上地下气象万千。这一路地上的风景没看够,但眼光却已抬望更高的方向。
 

 

 
Two communication tower silently standed there, seeing a rain cloud irrigated the land.
如果云知道自己如此仪态万方,是不是也会停下匆匆脚步?
 
 
After a whole day's job, the cloud was tired and got some golden edges by the setting sun.
 

 
The mirror lake was still surging intensively even if it was dusk time and the setting sun was saying goodbye.
 

 
镜泊湖,是中国最大、世界第二大高山堰塞湖,也是火山爆发形成地质结构,有熔岩地洞、堰塞瀑布、火山口之类风景。不过类似的风景我都见识过了,行程计划只是把镜泊湖当作途中的中转站,顺道看看风景。不过,对这些风景有兴趣的筒子可以进景区看看。
南樵 于 2013-11-04 11:10:51 编辑

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旧帖 2013-11-04 10:42:31
Post #56
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
南樵 离线 南樵 TIPS:
1、东北人并不都是活雷锋,不过凡事倒是都很主动热情。到镜泊湖的时候,我们被后边车的司机叫住,才发现车胎又出老问题了。司机小伙带我们去补胎,顺便带我们去看了他亲戚家的客栈。住宿挺便宜,就是吃有点贵,利润都在吃上面。后来听说他家可以住大炕,我们一商量干脆到农家乐算了。不过谈到钱,这小伙就跟我们打马虎眼,后来第二天他丈母娘执意收了超过我们预期的食宿费。
2、镜泊湖的风景主要在北湖(南湖新建了不少疗养院、招待所,但不好预定)。不过现场看后,我感觉对于我们南方来的人,这里的风景点也许并没有太多稀奇。大家也没有强烈愿望转湖、逛景点。
3、要进农家乐,可以从通往景区大路边有两个巨大玉米和大白菜的雕塑位置左转上坡。会路过很多农民开的食宿客栈,住农家就得预先谈好。
4、不买门票在湖边玩的话,可以沿着路走,去往省财政培训中心、法官培训中心路牌指示的方向,就可以到湖边。

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旧帖 2013-11-04 12:30:47
Post #57
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 镜泊湖是牡丹江水系当中重要部分。
很多年前的火山爆发,造成岩浆堵塞牡丹江,形成堰塞湖和堰塞瀑布,也就是现在的镜泊湖。



The morning of mirror lake is very nice.
Clear sunshine returned again.



What's this?
Apple? No! It's wild haw apple! 
 

这就是省法官培训中心,深处山坳,毗邻湖畔,外边看不到,里边别有洞天。
 

紧邻湖边的山坡上,老牛舒服的趴着晒太阳。
发现这些外来过客,老牛淡淡的撇了我们一眼。

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旧帖 2013-11-04 16:27:57
Post #58
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
Michael1054 离线 Michael1054 路上的风景,才是最美的。cool

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百川源于山、纳于海;登山安全则源于心、化于行。

 
旧帖 2013-11-04 17:04:04
Post #59
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
EASYLIFEDW 离线 EASYLIFEDW 这颜色比同时期的呼伦贝尔亮了太多,莫非是摄影的技术太好!tongue好评必须送上!

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enjoy easy,enjoy life

 
旧帖 2013-11-04 17:11:19
Post #60
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
梧桐RAIN 离线 梧桐RAIN 此中有美景,欲诉已忘言。
实在是太美了,美到不知该说什么。一如既往的很黄很暴力,但颜色层次多了很多,也有了更多的灵气,真是不虚此行啊,我们也跟着过了眼瘾...看楼主的帖子长见识i,天文地理,历史典故娓娓道来,赞!

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天地有大美而不言

 
旧帖 2013-11-04 17:37:05
Post #61
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵
Michael1054 wrote:
路上的风景,才是最美的。cool

 
MK所言极是!
偶遇的美景比刻意去看的多。不少美景在路上不方便停车,只能眼看着从眼前飞过,没法拍下来。
 
EASYLIFEDW wrote:
这颜色比同时期的呼伦贝尔亮了太多,莫非是摄影的技术太好!tongue好评必须送上!

 
梧桐RAIN wrote:
此中有美景,欲诉已忘言。
实在是太美了,美到不知该说什么。一如既往的很黄很暴力,但颜色层次多了很多,也有了更多的灵气,真是不虚此行啊,我们也跟着过了眼瘾...看楼主的帖子长见识i,天文地理,历史典故娓娓道来,赞!

 
谢谢两位,果酱果酱!smile
计划已久,走一趟不易,得好好写下来才对得起自己和队友啊~~

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旧帖 2013-11-05 10:08:05
Post #62
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 After leaving the mirror lake, we drived for the Jiaohe along with the Heda expressway.
tips: Don't held up! Another beautiful wetland is several mile away ahead. It is called as West Paozi, according to the published map.



离开镜泊湖,我们驾车在鹤大高速上飞驰,快要接近敦化地界的时候,高速西侧突然闪出一个巨大的湖面。
那种透亮湛蓝的颜色,瞬间就把小伙伴们都震惊了!
 

纯纯净净的水天一色,点缀着片片鹅黄色的水草。
 

There is just a mix of blue and yellow in the lake.
But there is an incomparable drawing in the heart certainly.
 

When we passed by, we don't wanna say goodbye!
 
南樵 于 2013-11-05 11:37:15 编辑

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旧帖 2013-11-05 10:08:44
Post #63
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵

远远的山边,片片云朵带着阳光阵阵飘动,湖面上出现或明或暗的光影组合!
 

水草的颜色也伴着阳光,透出变化多端的层次。
 

If there was no such yellow totally, the simple view of blue would seem to be a normal sight.
 

A perfect landscape cannot lack of neither ballance nor key point.
Now, the mixed colors came into be a harmonious picture totally.
 
南樵 于 2019-04-25 12:00:43 编辑

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旧帖 2013-11-05 12:38:44
Post #64
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
南樵 离线 南樵 补充一条:去镜泊湖,北湖景点比较多,堰塞湖瀑布等等都在那边。如果计划到北湖旅行,要在大三村子下高速。沿着大路一直向西就可以开到景区大门口。景区里外都有食宿,外边大部分是农家的,可以自行询问入住。此地住宿不太贵,但是吃鱼非常贵,建议尽量食宿同时谈好。如果光住不吃,让老板挣不到利润,不排除会遭白眼。

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旧帖 2013-11-05 16:08:28
Post #65
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵

那天刚好是10月3日,我们到达红叶谷的时候终于碰到了这一路上的第一次,也是唯一一次堵车。在此之前,除了在到佳木斯的时候在县道略等了一阵,其余全程几乎畅通无阻。
由于当年在北疆可可托海狂堵,落下了病根,我们对堵车等待实在没底气,于是我们直接转到去往松花湖畔,希望那里也有不错的风景和红叶。
 

An old woman was collecting the corns skillfully. Her house lies to the lakeside.
 

All the red leaves need splendid sunshine to say hello to the deep autumn.
 
南樵 于 2019-04-25 11:58:39 编辑

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旧帖 2013-11-05 16:26:43
Post #66
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
南樵 离线 南樵 TIPS:
1、任何情况下,要避开在节假日到著名景点。即便我们认为名气还在上升期的红叶谷,也是如此;
2、如果红叶谷拥堵,则沿着大路继续向前,不久会到达松花湖边,从靠江村过去,也有一段临湖向阳的路,两边红叶很多。但是这段道路非常窄,千万小心安全及错车;
3、蛟河节假日(看红叶季节)住宿非常紧张,务必要早定或者早到。

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旧帖 2013-11-05 16:38:15
Post #67
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵

I like the color with warm feeling.
There are too many irritative things in the world. The more important thing is to calm down the upset soul.
 

Whatever, the bright and dark, the red with green, is my favorite!
 

When you are bathing in the sunshine like a piece of red leave, never forget the blue sky!
 

All the leaves in the fall change their color step by step, firstly from green to yellow, and then from yellow to orange, from orange to red finally.

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旧帖 2013-11-05 18:45:47
Post #68
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
大三 离线 大三 完美的季节 丰收的秋色  好评给足

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爱户外 爱摄影 爱旅行 爱生活

 
旧帖 2013-11-05 20:24:56
Post #69
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
晴天娃娃 离线 晴天娃娃 看帖,重温那无边秋色。。

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愿时光清浅,许你晴天!

 
旧帖 2013-11-06 08:57:03
Post #70
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯东北行记
 
南樵 离线 南樵 TIPS:
1、红叶谷要避开节假日,但榆树沟就关系不大了。榆树沟本身是一条环线,而且还分为大小环。建议走逆时针方向,沿着新安水库边的大环,风景更好。其中靠近水库有一个三岔口路段,这里的红叶非常美,而且随时停车很方便。
2、榆树沟村吃饭很实惠,我们没有选路边的,而是稍微向接到里边开了点。找到的这家,上菜很快,而且菜量很足,点的青椒炒肉,实际上的是肉炒青椒,简直是肉食动物的大爱。
 
补1:忘记前面有没有提到柳毛湖,在进入兴凯湖乡地界前,有一个柳毛湖,有大片的芦苇荡和宽阔的水面,看着很漂亮。
补2:从兴凯湖西岸到东岸沿途的顺序是:兴凯湖博物馆-观景台-小渔村-大湖闸-二湖闸(有大渔村)-场部-垦区
南樵 于 2013-11-08 10:27:23 编辑

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旧帖 2013-11-06 08:58:21
Post #71
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 以下几篇都是环行榆树沟沿路的风景,只放片不插话!


 
 
 
 
南樵 于 2013-11-08 10:27:55 编辑

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旧帖 2013-11-06 08:59:08
Post #72
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵
 
 
 
 

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旧帖 2013-11-06 08:59:55
Post #73
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵
 


 
 
 

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旧帖 2013-11-06 09:00:33
Post #74
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵

 
 

 
 

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旧帖 2013-11-07 14:03:33
Post #75
Re: Into the Northeast (pics and tips) - 纵贯 ...
 
南樵 离线 南樵 Yushugou had a brilliant sight of autumn as above.
But Changbai Mt. also dressed up the fall clothes with charming look, while it's winter and summer are well-known all over the world.

和榆树沟一样,长白山也有非常精彩的秋天。
有这么漂亮的秋天,也许某天我们再说起长白山,不会只想起它的皑皑冬雪和清爽夏天。



Both Yushugou and Changbai Mt. lies in province of Jilin.
And the famous Changbai Mt., where once belonged to china totally, is the boundry of china and norh korea now.
 

我们没有贪恋景点开发更多的北坡,而是直接从北坡上山,沿着环山公路直接逛到西坡,一路欣赏长白山的秋色。
 

What does a maple leaf looks like?
It has more sharp angles, not like the red leaves.
 

I found the maple leaves with five, seven or more angles, just like a beautiful palm.
 
 
If you happen to go to the Northeast in the fall, don't miss the great landscape.
南樵 于 2013-11-17 19:38:49 编辑

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