f/小驴在野 2014-01-26 11:29

舌尖上的中国 A Bite of China 中英文版 (美食,台本中英对照)

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《舌尖上的中国第一集:自然的馈赠》  Episode 1  Gift of Nature  
《舌尖上的中国第二集:主食的故事》  Episode 2  The Story of Staple Food
《舌尖上的中国第三集:转化的灵感》  Episode 3  Inspiration for Transformation
《舌尖上的中国第四集:时间的味道》
《舌尖上的中国第五集:厨房的秘密》

影片简介
片名:舌尖上的中国  A Bite of China
导演:陈晓卿
类型:纪录片 Documentary

影片内容提要
第1集、美食中英对照
烤松茸:roasted matsutake
油焖春笋:braised bamboo shoot
莲藕排骨汤:lotus root and rip soup
酸辣藕丁:hot and sour lotus root
炸藕夹:deep-fried lotus root sandwich
鱼头泡饼:bread soaked in fish head soup
香煎马鲛鱼:decocted mackerel
酸菜鱼:boiled fish with pickled cabbage and chili

第2集、美食中英对照
黄馍馍:yellow steamed bun
葱油椒盐花卷:steamed twisted rolls with scallion and spicy salt
干炒牛河:stir-fried rice noodles with beef
腊汁肉夹馍:Chinese hamburger
羊肉泡馍:pita bread soaked in lamb soup
岐山臊子面:Qishan minced noodles
端午粽子:zongzi
毛蟹炒年糕:rice cake stir-fried with crabs
扁豆焖面:braised noodles with lentil
清明团子:sweet green rice ball

第3集、美食中英对照
大煮干丝:raised shredded chicken with ham and dried tofu
豆腐脑:tofu curd
香炸奶豆腐:fried dried milk cake
蒙古奶茶:Mongolia milky tea
炸乳扇:fried dairy fan
烤羊排:baked lamp chop
红烧毛豆腐:stinky tofu braised in soy sauce
酸菜白肉:pickled Chinese cabbage with plain boiled pork
酸菜饺子:dumpling of pickled Chinese cabbage

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二、中英文台本
第一集《自然的馈赠》  
Episode 1  Gift of Nature

中国拥有世界上最富戏剧性的自然景观,高原,山林,湖泊,海岸线。这种地理跨度有助于物种的形成和保存,任何一个国家都没有这样多潜在的食物原材料。为了得到这份自然的馈赠,人们采集,捡拾,挖掘,捕捞,穿越四季。本集将展现美味背后人和自然的故事。

China have the world's most strange natural landscapes, plateaus,mountains and forests, lakes and rivers, coastline. Such kind of geographical span is very good for the growth and reserve of species, which any of other countries don't have a lot of potential raw of food like China. To get the gift of nature, people collect, pick, dig, catch all year round. This episode will show the story about man and nature behind the delicious.

香格里拉,松树和栎树自然杂交林中,卓玛寻找着一种精灵般的食物——松茸。松茸保鲜期只有短短的两天,商人们以最快的速度对松茸进行精致的加工,这样一只松茸24小时之后就会出现在东京的市场中。

Shangri-la, in the nature hybrid forest of pine and oak tree, Zhuoma is looking for a sort of elf-like food——matsutake. Because the matsutake only have 2-day short fresh life, businessmen have to do with sophisticated processing with the fastest speed on the matsutake. Then, after 24hours a kind of this matsutake will soon appear in the markets in Tokyo.

松茸产地的凌晨3点,卓玛和妈妈坐着爸爸开的摩托车出发。穿过村庄,母女俩要步行走进30公里之外的原始森林。雨让各种野生菌疯长,但每一个藏民都有识别松茸的慧眼。松茸出土后,卓玛立刻用地上的松针把菌坑掩盖好,只有这样,菌丝才可以不被破坏,为了延续自然的馈赠,藏民们小心翼翼地遵守着山林的规矩。

At 3 a.m. in the habitat of matsutake, Zhuoma' father took zhuoma and her mather in a motorbike. After passing through the village, mother and daughter would walk into the virgin forest 30 km away. Heavy rain made all kinds of wild mushroom grow crazily, however, every Tibetan has a pair of sharp eyes. After digging out the mushroom, Zhuoma covered the hole quickly with pine needles on the soil. Only in this way, can keep the organization of mushroom from destroy. To continue the gift of nature, Tibetans follow the rules of forests in mind.

为期两个月的松茸季节,卓玛和妈妈挣到了5000元,这个收入是对她们辛苦付出的回报。

During 2-month period of mushroom pitching, Zhuoma and mom had made 5000 yuan back. This payment presents the reward of their hard work.

老包是浙江人,他的毛竹林里,长出过遂昌最大的一个冬笋。冬笋藏在土层的下面,从竹林的表面上看,什么也没有,老包只需要看一下竹梢的叶子颜色,就能知道笋的准确位置,这完全有赖于他丰富的经验。

In the mao bamboo grove of Laobao, who comes from Zhengjiang, there used to have a biggest winter bamboo shoot in Suichang. Winter bamboo shoots hide under the soil, just like noting from the surface of the earth. As watching the color of bamboo leaves can Laobao knows the exact position where bamboo shoots are. It totally relay on his rich experience.

笋的保鲜从来都是个很大的麻烦,笋只是一个芽,是整个植物机体活动最旺盛的部分。聪明的老包保护冬笋的方法很简单,扒开松松的泥土,把笋重新埋起来,保湿,这样的埋藏方式就地利用自然,可以保鲜两周以上。

The way to retain freshness of bamboo is very hard. Bamboo shoots are only a kind of bud, which is the most vigorous part of the whole plant organism. Clever Laobao said it's very easy to protect winter bamboo shoots. Digging up the loose soil, covering the bamboo shoots in the holes again, preserving moisture. This way of covering makes use of nature and can retain freshness more than 2 weeks.   

在中国的四大菜系里,都能见到冬笋。厨师偏爱它,也是因为笋的材质单纯,极易吸收配搭食物的滋味。老包正用冬笋制作一道家常笋汤,腌笃鲜主角本来应该是春笋,但是老包却使用价格高出20倍的遂昌冬笋。因为在老包眼里,这些不过是自家毛竹林里的一个小菜而已。

Winter bamboo shoots can be found in four major Chinese cuisines. Cooks prefer it also for its pure flavor, which is very easy to take in other taste. Lao Bao is now using the bamboo shoots to make a normal home dish of bamboo shoot soup. The main material of bamboo shoot soup with fresh and pickled streaky pork should have to be spring bamboo shoots, however, Lao Bao put the Suichang winter bamboo into use, which is 20 times higher than the winter bamboo shoots. Because Lao Bao thought it is only a small kind of dishes in his home.

在云南大理北部山区,醒目的红色砂岩中间,散布着不少天然的盐井,这些盐成就了云南山里人特殊的美味。老黄和他的儿子树江小溪边搭建一个炉灶,土灶每年冬天的工作就是熬盐。

In the northern part of mountain area of Dali in Yunnan province, many natural salt wells,which is an essential element of special food of mountain people, spread in the striking red sandstone. Lao Huang and his son is setting up a cooking range beside the brook. The job of the cooking range is to boil salt every winter.

云龙县的冬季市场,老黄和儿子赶到集市上挑选制作火腿的猪肉,火腿的腌制在老屋的院子里开始。诺邓火腿的腌制过程很简单,老黄把多余的皮肉去除,加工成一个圆润的火腿,洒上白酒除菌,再把自制的诺盐均匀的抹上,不施锥针,只用揉、压,以免破坏纤维。

In the market of Yunlong county in winter, Lao Huang and his son rushed to pick up the pork to make the ham. The pickle of ham began in the yard of old house. The pickle of Nuo Deng Ham is very easy. Lao Huang got rid of the extra pork, made the pork a kind of mellow and full ham, put liquor on it to kill bacteria, and then spread on the salt made home. During the pickle, rubbing and pressing are only be used in case the fiber is destroyed.

即使用现代的标准来判断,诺邓井盐仍然是食盐中的极品,虽然在这个古老的产盐地,盐业生产已经停止,但我们仍然相信诺邓盐是自然赐给山里人的一个珍贵礼物。

Even use the modern standard to make a decision, Nuo Deng Well Salt is still the top of  salt. Although the place used to be rich of salt in the ancient times, we still believe Nuo Deng Salt is a valuable present to the mountain people from nature.

圣武和茂荣是兄弟俩,每年9月,他们都会来到湖北的嘉鱼县,来采挖一种自然的美味。这种植物生长在湖水下面的深深的淤泥之中,茂荣挖到的植物的根茎叫做莲藕,是一种湖泊中高产的蔬菜——藕。

Shengwu and Maorong are twin brothers. Every September, they will come to the Jiayu county in Hubeing province, to pick up a kind of natural delicious food. This sort of plants live in the muds far away from the river. The root of what Maorong has dug is called lotus root, a kind of high produced vegetables in the lakes.

作为职业挖藕人,每年茂荣和圣武要只身出门7个月,采藕的季节,他们就从老家安徽赶到有藕的地方。较高的人工报酬使得圣武和茂荣愿意从事这个艰苦的工作。挖藕的人喜欢天气寒冷,这不是因为天冷好挖藕,而是天气冷买藕吃藕汤的人就多一些,藕的价格就会涨。

As a professional of digging lotus roots, every year Shengrong and Maowu will be out for 7months. As soon as the season of lotus roots picking up, they will get to the place where is rich of lotus roots from their own home in Anhui province. The high payment make Shengrong and Maowu are willing to do the hard job. People who pick up lotus roots like cold weather, not because it's easy to pick up in cold weather but that people who buy the lotus roots or eat it will be more and the price will be high.

整整一湖的莲藕还要采摘5个月的时间,在嘉鱼县的珍湖上,300个职业挖藕人,每天从日出延续到日落,在中国遍布淡水湖的大省,这样场面年年上演。

There are still 5 months left to pick up a lake lotus roots. On the lake of Jiayu county, 300professionals keep working from sunset to sunrise every day. You will see the same picture year and year in every big province which is rich of freshwater lakes.

今天当我们有权远离自然,享受美食的时候,最应该感谢的是这些通过劳动和智慧成就餐桌美味的人们。

Nowadays, when we have the power to be far away nature and enjoy delicious food, we should be grateful to the people who use their hands and brain to make so many delicious food.

 

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第二集《主食的故事》  
Episode 2  The Story of Staple Food

中国自然地理的多样变化,让生活在不同地域的中国人,享受到截然不同的丰富主食。从南到北,变化万千的精致主食,不仅提供了人身体所需要的大部分热量,更影响了中国人对四季循环的感受,带给中国人丰饶、健康、充满情趣的生活。

China has diverse natural, conditions across its land. As a result, Chinese people living in different areas enjoy absolutely different but rich staple food. From the south to the north, the diverse staple food provide energy for human bodies. Moreover, they influence people's feelings towards the change of four seasons and enrich the lives of the Chinese.

山西丁村,中原最古老的村落。主妇们最会制作面食。丁村人把加工成粉末状的谷物都称之为面。谷物加工的历史已有上万年。附近曾经出土过最古老的石磨盘。至今同一形制的磨盘还在使用。石磨将谷物研成粉末,再用筛过滤掉粗粒杂质,真正意义上的面食才得以出现。

The Ding Village in Shanxi is the most ancient village in the Central Plains. Housewives here are best at making food out of flour. Local people call the powdered cereals as flour.Cereal processing has a history of over 10,000 years. The most ancient millstone was unearthed just nearby. Today, millstones of the same shape are still being used. Millstones grind up cereals into powders. Sieve out the coarse grains. Then the real flour food appears.

山西是多山少川的内陆地区,蔬菜品种少。家庭主妇们没有条件在副食上进行调剂。为了提高全家人的食欲,只好在各种面食的制作手法上变换花样。一样面食百样吃,加工成餐桌上的美食。这些花样众多的精致面食,无不让人感到纤巧细手的灵动和聪明睿智的丰富想象。

Rich in mountains while lacking rivers, Shanxi is scarce in its vegetable varieties. Housewives cannot do much to enrich the non-staple food. So they figure out different ways of making flour food to increase the family's appetite. Flour is processed into various delicacies on the table.These diverse and delicate foods remind people of the women's nimble fingers and rich imagination.

当丁村的大妈们正忙着为一场寿宴精心制作花馍的时候,黄土高原上的窑洞里飘来了阵阵面香。绥德汉子老黄刚刚蒸好了满满一笼屉黄馍馍。古老的糜【méi】子经过老黄的加工,变得十分香甜可口。从农历十一月开始,每隔三天,他都要骑一个半小时的车,到县城里去卖。

When the women in the Ding Village are busy preparing a birthday feast, a fragrance of flour floats out from a cave house on the loess plateau. Huang Guosheng, a Suide native, just got a tray of yellow buns steamed. Processed by Huang, the glutinous millet becomes sweet and tasty. From the lunar November on, he would ride 1.5 hours to the county town every three days to sell the buns.

绥德县位于陕北丘陵沟壑地区。在今天的绥德,杂粮和小麦是餐桌上的主角,他们被陕北人变换成各种花样。绥德盛产糜子,黄馍馍就是用糜子面做的馒头。

Suide County sits in the hilly-gully areas in Northern Shaanxi. Today, minor cereals and wheat are the main ingredients on the table. Local people make them into diverse dishes. Suide is rich in the glutinous millet resources. The yellow steamed buns are made with this main ingredient.

糜子又叫黍【shǔ】,因为耐旱成为黄土高原最主要的农作物。8000多年前,黄河流域就开始种糜子。糜子蒸煮成饭,口感略差。但是这个本土食物在过去是陕北人最家常的主食。

Due to its drought-enduring nature, glutinous millet became the most important crop on the loess plateau. It was planted along the Yellow River regions more than 8,000 years ago. If the glutinous millet is directly steamed, it doesn't taste good enough. But it used to be the most popular staple food for people in Northern Shaanxi.

糜子分软硬两种。老黄将硬糜子与软糜子按七比三的比例混合,清水浸泡一夜之后上碾,还要再细细地筛一遍才能使用。但是老黄坚定地认为,用机器磨出来的糜子,远远不如在自家石碾子上碾出来的好吃。

There are two types of glutinous millets, the hard and the soft. Huang Guosheng mingles the two based on this proportion: 70% hard glutinous millets and 30% the soft kind, dip them in water over a night and then grind them up on a millstone. Then he would use a sieve to get rid of the rough grains. Huang firmly believes that the glutinous millet powdered by a machine lags far behind those ground up on his millstone.

炒过的糜子会散发出自然的清香,这是老黄最引以为骄傲的制作秘方。揉完的糜子面,要在缸里发酵一夜,经验告诉老黄,包上被子效果最好。

Fried glutinous millet produces natural fragrance. That's a recipe that Huang feels most proud of. After kneading the glutinous millet flour, Huang would put it in a big jar for fermentation for a night. Experience taught Huang to wrap up the jars with quilts to make the buns tastier.

老黄把家安在窑洞里,这种中国黄土高原最古老的居住形式,可以追溯到4000多年前。一位农民辛勤劳作一生,最基本的愿望就是修建几孔窑洞,有了窑,娶了妻,才算成家立业。

Huang's home, a cave house, is the most traditional dwelling format on the loess plateau in China. It has a history of over 4,000 years. For the hardworking farmers here, their basic wish is to renovate a cave into a home and marry a wife. That's how a life gets complete.

老黄和老伴一次做700个黄馍馍,上碾、揉面、发酵前后要花3天时间。两个人从凌晨3点钟开始,一直要忙到晚上9点。老黄的馍馍做得实在,人也实在,一个一块钱,从不还价。在一年中最寒冷的两个月里,老黄能卖出15000个黄馍馍,刨去成本,一个冬天他的实际收入大约是8000元。

Huang and his wife can make 700 buns every time. Grinding up, kneading and fermentation, the whole process takes 3 days. The couple works from 3 a.m. through 9 p.m. Huang's buns are good-tasting. And Huang is an honest businessman. One yuan for each bun, no bargain. In the coldest two months of a year, Huang can sell 15,000 buns. Taking into account the cost, he can earn 8,000 yuan in a winter.

老黄在这里养育了一儿一女。现在,孩子们都已经把家安在城市里,不再与土地打交道。然而,老黄不愿意离开,住着自己的窑洞,吃住自己种的粮食,老黄自足而踏实。

Huang has a son and a daughter. Both have settled down in the city. They no longer work on the farmland. But Huang doesn't want to leave. Living in his cave house and eating the food he plants, Huang feels satisfied with his wife.

千百年来,中国人从五谷中获得温饱,而这种碳水化合物营造出的满足感,正是亿万个像老黄这样在土地上辛勤劳作的农民提供的。

For thousands of years, Chinese people gain food and clothing from the five cereals. The feel of satisfaction brought by these carbohydrates is just provided by millions of hardworking farmers like Huang.

秋季,辽阔的中国北方,成熟的小麦决定了大地的基本色。小麦,从河西走廊传入到中 原,因为营养丰富,经过4000多年的本土化历程,成为中国北方栽培面积最广泛的农作物。这种原产于西亚的优良物种,已经成为中国人最重要的主食。

In autumn, the ripe wheat decides the basic color of the land in North China. Wheat was introduced into the Central Plains through the Hosi Corridor. As it contains rich nutrition, it has been the most vastly planted crop in North China after a localization process of over 4,000 years. This species originated from West Asia and has become the most important staple food for the Chinese.

将小麦面粉发酵后,在特制的火坑中烤熟。这种圆形面饼,含水份少,极耐贮藏,是维吾尔家庭常年必备的主食。

After the wheat flour ferments, people bake them in a specially-designed fire pit. This type of round pancake contains little water and can be preserved for a long time. They're the indispensable staple food for Uyghur families in all seasons.

新疆库车,人们用享受美食的方式来庆贺古尔邦节。馕是维吾尔族人最喜欢的主食。馕的叫法出自古波斯语,已有2000多年的历史。

In Kuqa, Xinjiang, people celebrate the Corban Festival with delicacies. Naan is the most favorite staple food for Uyghur people. The name originated from ancient Persian and has a history of over 2,000 years.

馒头最早出现的时候,名字叫炊饼也叫 蒸饼,是中原地区最受欢迎的主食。只有中国人的祖先从水煮食物的原理中获得灵感,并使中国成为最早用蒸汽烹饪的国家。

When they first emerged, steamed buns were called Chui cakes and steamed cakes. They are the most popular staple food in the Central Plains. Ancient Chinese people were inspired by the water boiling food theory. They made China the earliest country to cook with steam.

 

中国的五谷,始终是一个变化中的概念。大约两千年前,五谷的排序为稻、黍、稷、麦、菽,而今天,中国粮食产量的前三名已经变成稻谷、小麦和玉米。但是无论如何变化,都无法动摇稻米在五谷中的首席地位。

Five cereals in China have always been a changing concept. Around 2,000 years ago, the five cereals were namely rice, broomcorn millet, millet, wheat, and beans. But today, the three grains that rank top in terms of their production volumes are rice, wheat and corn. No matter how things have changed, the leading status of rice remains unchanged.

地扪在侗语里的意思是泉水之源。地处清水江源头的地扪村,一年中阴雨天居多。吴顺玉正在自家的禾仓里取米。在这个潮湿的环境里,禾仓对于稻米的储藏起着至关重要的作用。木制吊脚瓦木结构的禾仓建在水上,可以防火、防鼠、防蚁虫。当地最古老的禾仓,已有300年历史。

In the Dong language, Dimen means the origin of spring. Dimen Village sits at the origin of Qingshui River. It mostly rains throughout a year. Wu Shunyu is fetching rice from their own barn. Barn plays a vital role in the storage of rice. The barn of tile and wood structure was built above the water to prevent fire, mice and insects. The most ancient barn here has a history of 300 years.

吴顺玉家在禾仓里储藏的是没有脱壳的稻谷,这能长时间保持稻米新鲜的口感。今天取的米要当做礼物,送到村头同族的一户人家。在地扪,生产完的妇女为孩子过满月那天,婆家人会把结婚时置办的彩礼送到娘家来,新家庭成立的仪式才算最后完成。同族的女眷们也会挑篮提篓,她们还在新米上放上鸡蛋,表示对新生命诞生最诚心的祝福。

The rice Wu Shunyu has fetched is with shells. The fresh taste of rice can be preserved with the shells. The rice Wu fetched today would be presented as a gift to a family in their village. In Dimen, after a woman gives birth and her baby reaches the age of one month, her parents-in-law would send her the betrothal gifts. That marks the official formation of a new family. Other women in the village would also send baskets with new rice and eggs. That represents the most sincere blesses for the newly-born.

米粉是贵州黎平最重要的米制品,在当地集市上随处可见。这里的人最喜欢吃的是这种汤粉,细腻的米粉再配以火辣的肉汤,一日三餐都可以作为主食。把浸泡后的新鲜大米磨成米浆,是杨秀霞做米粉的第一步。舀浆、上笼,米浆在沸水中用旺火蒸熟,晾凉,收存。这是典型的中国南方米粉作坊。洁白如玉的米粉,留有余温,在雾气缭绕中散发着独特的稻米清香。杨秀霞和丈夫配合默契,这样的每一个动作,他们都重复了无数遍。

Rice noodles are the most important rice product in Liping, Guizhou. They can be seen everywhere on the local markets. People here love the noodles in soup the most. Refined rice noodles in the spicy broth can be served for any of the three meals daily. Grind the dipped fresh rice into rice milk, that's the first step for Yang Xiuxia to make to rice noodles. Scoop out the milk, steam it. The rice milk is steamed on the boiling water, air dry it and store it. This is a typical rice noodle workshop in South China. As white as jade, the rice noodles preserve some warmth and produce the unique fragrance of rice. For every movement, they've repeated for hundreds of times.

经过春耕、夏耘、秋收、冬藏,如今超过65%以上的中国人食用稻米。中国是全世界水稻栽培历史最早的国家,7000年前,长江流域就开始种植水稻。稻子从一丛丛青翠的秧苗,出落成为黄金稻谷,配合着各地的饮食习俗,做出吃法多样、口味丰富的米食。

Plowing a field in spring, hoeing and weeding in summer, harvesting in autumn and storing up in winter. Today, more than 65% of the Chinese eat rice. China is the earliest country to plant rice paddy. Some 7,000 years ago, rice paddy was grown in the Yangtze River areas. From the green rice shoots to the golden paddy, rice has been made into different foods based on people's diverse eating habits.

与黎平米粉做法非常相似的是广州人最爱吃的一种米食----河粉,150年前在广州沙河一带出现,于是这种食物也叫沙河粉。沙河粉更加薄而透明,口感更柔韧爽滑。用沙河粉作为主食,广东人最接受的就是这道干炒牛河,这也是对广东厨师基本功的一大测试。干炒牛河讲究锅气,必须猛火快炒,炒匀之余,又得保证粉的完整。在习惯吃面的北方人眼里,这大概就是用米做的面条吧。

Guangzhou natives also love rice noodles, which are cooked similarly to Liping rice noodles. Around 150 years ago, rice noodles first appeared is Guangzhou. The rice noodles here are thinner and more transparent and they taste more tender and smooth. The most popular rice noodle product emong the Cantonese can be this stir-fried rice noodles with beef. This dish is a test of a Cantonese chef's basic skills. To make this dish perfect, chefs have to fry the noodles on vigorous fire. While frying the noodles evenly, chefs also have to guarantee the intactness of the noodles. People in North China like eating flour products. The noodles in the south are made of rice.

1000多年前,中国以秦岭、淮河一线划分出南稻北麦的农业分布,因此造成了南方人爱吃米、北方人则离不开面食的现象。

More than 1,000 years ago, China was divided by the Qinling Mountains and Huaihe River in terms of the rural pattern: rice in the south and wheat in the north. Therefore, people in the south love eating rice and those in the north cannot live without wheaten food.

 

几千公里外的西安,老城区里的这家饭馆永远站满了等候的人。能够让直爽的关中人这样耐心等待的,大概只有肉夹馍了。

Thousands of miles away in Xi'an, this restaurant in the old city town is always filled with people waiting. What can keep the local people wait so patiently can only be the marinated meat in baked bun.

 

在西安,馍是最被当地人接受的主食,而肉夹馍则是馍的最经典吃法。肉夹馍是两种食物的绝妙组合----白吉馍和腊汁肉。西安人吃的白吉馍用火烤制,加入三十多种调料慢火熬制而成的肉,软糯浓郁,馍的平淡更加凸显出肉的醇香。

In Xi'an, this type of baked bun is the most widely accepted steple food. The marinated meat in baked bun in the most classic way to enjoy the buns. Marinated meat and baked bun are the perfect combination. The buns Xi'an people eat are baked on fire. The meat is made with 30-plus seasonings and is stewed with gentle heat. So it tastes soft and glutinous. The plain buns can better highlight the mellow meat.

 

西安人曹石和朋友组了一个用西安方言演唱的说唱乐队,身兼大学教师、乐队主唱、作词等多种角色。他在这首描写陕西平民美食的说唱里,一连串列举了几十种诱人的美食。

 

Xi'an native Cao shi founded a band with a few friends. They sing in Xi'an dialects. Cao is a college teacher and also the lyric writer for the band. In this song, he lists dozens of local delicacies in ordinary people's loves in Shaanxi.

 

历史上的西安曾经是世界上最繁华的都市,13个王朝在这里建都。全世界的人都汇集在这里,带来了各地不同的美食。直至今日,这里依然是中国人的主食天堂。

 

Xi'an was once the most prosperous city in the world. Thirteen dynasties set up their capitals here. People from around the world gathered here, bringing the place diverse delicacies. Today, Xi'an remains a heaven of staple foods for the Chinese.

 

泡馍也是从馍变化出来的一种西安主食。每个人根据自己喜好的口感,掰出大小、形状不一的馍块。对西安人来说,这个举手之劳是一个弥足享受的过程。

Paomo, another staple food in Xi'an, originated from the baked buns. Based on their own preference, people can tear a bun into different sizes. As for Xi'an natives, this process is what they enjoy very much.

 

在西北,主食和汤的完美融合,除了牛羊肉泡馍,还不能漏了兰州牛肉面。兰州人的早晨是从一碗牛肉面开始的。这个黄河穿城而过的城市,有着一千多家清真拉面馆,每天要消耗一百万碗以上的牛肉面。柔韧、滚烫的口感是兰州拉面令人赞不绝口的关键。

In Northwest China, chopped-up baked buns in lamb or beef broth is a perfect combination of staple food and soup. Another example can be the Lanzhou beef noodles. Lanzhou natives start their days with a bowl of beef noodles. With the Yellow River crossing the city, Lanzhou is home to over 1,000 Muslim noodles shops. Everyday, more than 1 million bowls of beef noodles are consumed. People have lavished praise on the tender and hot Lanzhou noodles.

一百年前,回族人马保子把煮过牛羊肝的汤兑入锅中,清香扑鼻的热锅子面大受欢迎。牛肉汤的清与浊是检验牛肉面是否正宗的秘籍之一。一碗绝佳的牛肉拉面应该具有汤汁清爽、萝卜白净、辣油红艳、香菜翠绿、面条黄亮五个特点。马保子又在和面时创造性地加入了蓬灰水,这使得面团更加富于弹性。全部工序要靠手工操作。

One hundred years ago, a Hui ethnic person Ma Baozi poured the water, in which the beef and lamb livers were just boiled, into a pot. Noodles made in that pot won popularity immediately. The clarity of the beef broth is the way to check if the beef noodles are authentic. The best beef noodles should acquire the following five features: clear soup,  clean white turnips, brilliant red chili oil, green parsley and yellow noodles. When kneading the flour, Ma Baozi creatively added some special water, whose main component is potassium carbonate. That made the flour more elastic. All the procedures are manual.

马文斌是兰州牛肉拉面的第四代传人,他在拉面馆里工作了40年。要想拉出粗细不同的大宽、韭叶、毛细、荞麦棱子,不但要臂力过人,对力道的控制还要刚中带柔。同样的麦子,磨成同样的面粉,却可以做出不同的面条,表现出不同的精彩。

Ma Wenbin is the fourth-generation successor of Lanzhou beef noodles. He's been working in a noodle shop for 40 years. To pull the dough into noodles of different thickness, a chef needs to have extraordinary strong arms and also exquisite skills in controlling his strength. The same wheat and the same flour, but different noodles and different wonders are produced.

对于面条的口感,南方人和北方人的要求也有着天壤之别。广州人喜欢的这种细面,与兰州拉面口感完全不同,爽脆弹牙,韧性十足。华南地区的广东,尽管稻米一年能熟两到三季,也并不妨碍广东人爱吃面。

For the mouthfeel of noodles, people from the north and south have absolutely different requirements. The Cantonese like this type of slim noodles, which are completely different from Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles. These noodles taste crispy, elastic and chewy. Rice paddy gets ripe in Guangdong for up to three seasons out of a year. But that doesn't prevent the Cantonese from loving the noodles.

 

和这种面用的是鸭蛋,使用传统的方式和好面团之后,最关键在于压面时的力度。用毛竹碾压面团,用人体弹跳的重力让面团受力均匀。压薄的面皮便可以用来制作面条和云吞皮。这样压打出来的面具有独特的韧性,配上用猪骨、大地鱼、虾籽等材料熬制3个小时以上的汤头,一碗鲜美无比的云吞捞面就成了岭南人的最爱。

Duck eggs are applied in dough making. A bamboo is used to press against the dough. A person jumps while sitting at the other end of the bamboo. Thus, the dough can receive strength evenly. The thin flour can be made into noodles or wanton skin that have special elasticity. Stewing pig bones, ground fish and shrimp eggs for 3 hours, and the soup for the tasty wonton noodles is made.

 

广东人把这种传统方法制作出来的面条叫做竹升面。这种古老的压面方式世世代代沿用至今。

Cantonese call noodles made with this traditional method bamboo noodles. This ancient method of dough pressing has been passed on for generations.

同样是做面,广东人用毛竹,中原人则用的是擀面杖。擀面,是中原女孩子成长中必须要掌握的生活技艺。早面午席是丁村人做寿请客的习俗。为了老伴的70大寿,卫大妈早早地就为宴席上要吃的面食做起了准备。中国人称这碗面叫长寿面。为什么中国人过生日要吃面?面条是怎么成为中国人贺寿的象征呢?有一个说法是,面的形状长而瘦,谐音长寿,面条于是当仁不让地成为讲究讨口彩的中国人最受欢迎的生日主食。

When making noodles, the Cantonese use bamboo while those in the Central Plains apply a rolling pole. Making dough is a skill that girls in the Central Plains must master. Noodles for breakfast and a banquet in the noon is the custom in Ding Village when people hold a birthday feast. To celebrate her husband's 70th birthday, Madame Wai got up early to prepare the flour food. The noodles are called longevity noodles. Why Chinese people eat noodles on their birthdays? How did noodles become the symbol of longevity? It is said that the shape of noodle is both long and slim. In Putonghua, long (chang) and slim (shou) is similar to the pronunciation of longevity (changshou). Noodles are the most popular staple food on birthdays for the Chinese.

在丁村人的寿宴上,一项必须由全村人共同完成的仪式正在进行。吃面之前,挑出一根最长的放在寿星公的碗里,要等他吃下这碗带着全村人寓意长命百岁祝福的面条,一场寿宴才算圆满。

At the birthday banquet in Ding Village, a ritual requiring the participation of all people is ongoing. Before eating the noodles, all the people pick out the longest noodle in their bowl and put it into the bowl of the one who celebrates the birthday. When be eats the bowl with all the long noodles carrying the villagers' best wishes, a birthday banquet can be regarded as complete.

陕西岐山人过寿也吃面。每逢老人做寿,岐山人都会聚在一起,请来秦腔剧团搭台唱戏。这时候一碗热腾腾酸辣可口的岐山臊子面,作为台前台后的最佳配角是绝不可少的。

People in Qishan, Shaanxi also eat noodles when celebrating birthdays. Qishan people would gather together and invite a Qin Melody troupe to perform. At this time, a towl of hot, sour and spicy Qishan saozi noodles is indispensable.

吃臊子面最讲究的要数流水席。早上天刚亮,吃面的流水席就开了。据当地的史志记载,岐山臊子面起源于3000年前,只吃面、不喝汤是当地人约定俗成的饮食规矩。

From early in the morning, a feast serving guests with noodles starts. As soon as the guests come, they'll get a bowl of noodles. Local chronicles say that Qishan saozi noodles originated 3,000 years ago. According to the local custom, people only eat the noodles but don't drink the soup.

陕西人把肉丁炒制的配料叫臊子,岐山臊子的做法更为讲究。肉丁切得薄而匀,干煸至透明状,再配以醋和秦椒辣面,文火慢炒。上等的臊子应该是色泽鲜红纯正,口感酸辣突出。这样一勺色泽油亮、辣而不燥的红油臊子,正是岐山臊子面的精髓所在。

The methods to make the ingredients for the Qishan saozi noodles are very particular. Meat is chopped into thin and even dices and dry-fried until they turn transparent. Add vinegar and chili and fry the meat on slow fire. The good-quality ingredients for Qishan saozi noodles are red in color, sour and spicy in the taste. The bright color and spicy taste are the essence of Qishan saozi noodles.

臊子面的配菜讲究五色:木耳豆腐寓意黑白分明,鸡蛋象征富贵,红萝卜寓意日子红火,蒜苗代表生机勃发,红黄绿白黑五种颜色代表了岐山人对生活的美好祝福。几千年来,臊子汤在岐山村村落落的面锅里翻滚着,岐山臊子面更成为一件精彩绝伦的艺术品。

The trimmings for the noodles have five colors. Fungus and tofu mean black and white. Eggs represent wealth. Red carrot symbolizes a prosperous life. Garlic sprouts mean vitality. The five colors, red, yellow, green, white and black represent Qishan people's best wishes for life. For thousands of years, saozi soup has been boiling in every corner in Qishan Village. Qishan saozi noodles have become a wonderful art piece.

岐山臊子面既是饭也是菜,这种饭菜合一的方式在中国人的米食中也随处可见。

Qishan saozi noodles function as both the rice and the dishes. Such a combination of rice and dishes can also be found elsewhere in China.

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xiao2011a OP 2014-01-26 12:21

第三集《转化的灵感》  
Episode 3  Inspiration for Transformation

在吃的法则里,风味重于一切。中国人从来没有把自己束缚在一张乏味的食品清单上。人们怀着对食物的理解,在不断的尝试中寻求着转化的灵感。

Taste is more important than anyting else as far as food is concerned. The Chinese have never restricted themselves to a certain tedious food list. With their understanding of food, the Chinese are always looking for an inspiration for change.

 

天一放晴,姚贵文就把竹匾搬到天台上。这些豆腐球是他和妻子几天的劳动成果。有些豆腐已经略显微黄,但这种程度的改变远远不够,姚贵文还要再耐心等待几天。干瘪坚硬以及黑褐色的表皮才是成熟的标志,这种变化来自于自然发酵。

Once the clouds clear up, Yao Guiwen moves the split-bamboo baskets to the terrace. He and his wife have spent days making the tofu balls. Some tofu has already turned yellowish. But that's far from enough. Yao has to wait several days more. When it gets hard and shriveled and the skin turns black, then the tofu has matured. The change is because of fermentation.

 

王翠华把不成形的嫩豆腐紧紧包裹起来,挤压出水分后,豆腐才会成形。如果不抓紧时间,新鲜的豆腐很快就会变馊,这意味着她必须包得飞快,并且没有时间休息。

Wang Cuihua tightly wraps the shapeless tender tofu with gauze and squeezes out the water. Then the tofu takes shape. There is no time to lose. The fresh tofu will quickly turn sour. It means Wang has to work very quickly without rest.

 

一盆烧得恰到好处的炭火,是姚贵文下午工作的关键。

A basin of charcoal fire of proper heat will be the key to Yao's work in the afternoon.

 

位于云南红河地区的建水古城,古称临安。在1200年间,一度是中国西南的重镇。如今,时间已经让炫目的荣耀褪色。和云南的许多小城一样,建水是一个多民族的聚居地,各种文化的掺杂形成了特有的氛围和格局。

Jianshui in Honghe Prefecture of Yunnan Province was named Lin'an in ancient times. It was once an important city in southwest China during the past 1200 years. Its brilliance has gradually faded with the passage of time. Just like many other towns in Yunnan, Jianshui is a multi-ethnic settlement. Different cultures have merged here, conjuring a unique atmosphere.

 

炭火的热力,让坚硬的豆腐迅速膨胀,这很容易让人联想到发酵的面团。建水人很会享用这种由风干和发酵打造出的特殊味道。蘸豆腐的调料各有不同,但是对姚贵文来说,豆腐本身的质地才是最重要的。

The tough tofu quickly inflates in the heat of charcoal fire. It reminds people of fermented flour. People of Jianshui like enjoying this special air-dried and fermented flavor. People can enjoy the tofu with varied sauces. But for Yao, the texture of tofu is the most important.

 

河谷地区的温暖很容易让豆腐发酵,而适度的干燥又让它们不至于腐败。对于风、水、阳光和豆腐之间的微妙关系,姚贵文比任何人都要敏感。

Tofu easily ferments in the warm weather of the river valley area. And the mildly dry air prevents it from rotting. Yao is more sensitive than anyone else to the subtle relations between wind, water, sunshine and tofu.

 

这里是建水最著名的大板井。在水井旁,女人们单靠手指的合作,就构建起一条豆腐的流水线。

This is the famous Daban Well of Jianshui. Beside the well, women set up a production line of tofu by just using their fingers.

 

做豆腐的各个环节都和水密不可分。拥有128口水井的建水人很懂得水。中国人相信,水能滋养人的灵性和觉悟。这一点,就仿佛水对豆腐的塑造。两者间有一种不可言喻的共通。

Water is a necessity in every procedure of making tofu. With a total of 128 wells in Jianshui, local residents are well versed with water. The Chinese believe water nourishes the spirit and mind up people. Just like water to tofu, the common points speak for themselves.

 

在距离建水不到40公里的古城石屏,这里的豆腐在气质上却大为不同。成形的豆腐体积大得惊人,难得的是它们极富韧性,几乎不会破损,少许的盐就可以最大程度地保鲜。

The ancient town of Shiping is less than 40km from Jianshui. Tofu here has a completely different look. The finished product is shockingly big. But it's unusually tenacious. And it almost doesn't crumble. A dash of salt can best preserve the tofu's freshness.

 

中国的云南,历来不是大豆的主要产区,可却不妨碍这里拥有悠久的豆腐历史。吃一颗豆腐,投一粒玉米,用这种方法记数,买卖双方十分默契。

Yunnan has never been a major soybean production area, but it has a long history of making tofu. One corn for one piece of tofu. There is a tacit agreement between the buyer and the seller.

 

30年来,姚贵文的豆腐摊上很少冷清过。从豆腐摊回家要走30分钟,几乎横穿老城。发展的速度飞快,这改变了建水的很多事情。在漫长的时间里,一些变量消失了,一些变量被修改,还有新的变量加入进来。总有一些经得起时间的磨砺,保留了下来。

For the past 3 decades, Yao's tofu stall has never been quiet. It takes half an hour to walk from the stall to home and Yao has to go across almost the entire town. The rapid development has changed many aspects of Jianshui. As time goes by, some variables have disappeared and others, altered. And new ones are added. But there are some that stand the tests of time and remain.

 

姚贵文和王翠华围绕着豆腐的生活清淡辛苦。丈夫最大的愿望是能去远方的大湖钓鱼,虽然他从来没有钓过鱼。在这对夫妇眼里,每一颗豆腐都很珍贵,它们能够帮助自己供养子女,过上幸福安稳的生活。

The Yao's life centered on tofu is watery and hard. The biggest wish of the husband is to fish in the big lake far away. He has no merits but only shorcomings. To the couple, every piece of tofu is precious. It help them to support their children and sustain a happy family life.

 

1000多年里,伴随着北方民族的数次迁入,豆腐代表的中原饮食文化已经深植于西南边陲的这片富饶之地,并且演绎出自己独特的气质。这些一脉相承的制作细节,让人联想到几千公里外的中原腹地。在那里,中国的豆腐从诞生到兴盛,一路走过2000年。

In the past over 1,000 years, with rounds of northern immigration, tofu, the representative of central China's food culture, has taken roots in the abundant land on the south-west border. And it has developed its unique disposition. The production details remind us of the hinterland of central China that is thousands of miles away. There, from birth to prosperity, tofu has enjoyed a history of 2,000 years.

 

胡学兵正赶往县城,他要在早市上卖掉今天的豆腐。

Hu Xuebing is on his way to the county town. He needs to sell his tofu at the morning market.

 

寿县是安徽省北部的一座古老的小县城,这里的人们对豆腐的情感非同一般。他们坚信,自己的祖先就是伟大的豆腐发明者。10月中旬,皖北地区的黄豆早已收获归仓,用新黄豆磨制的豆腐向来最受欢迎。在中国几千年的农耕史中,大豆一直占据着重要的地位置。在已知的豆科食物中,大豆是蛋白质最丰富也是最廉价的食物来源,可它早期的境遇一度尴尬。煮熟的大豆无法引起人们的食欲,并且使肠胃大量胀气,迫切的需要就是寻找到进食大豆的最佳方式。

Shouxian County is an old little town in the north Anhui province, people there has a special attachment to tofu. They believe their ancestors invented the great tofu. In middle October, soybeans in north Anhui have already been ripped and stored tofu made with newly harvested soybeans has always been the most popular in China's thousands years old history of agriculture. Soybean has long occupied an important position among the well-known legumes. Soybean is the richest in protein. So for the cheapest sustenance, but it was once in an awkward position. Cooked soybeans failed to wet people's appetite and to make matter's worse caused flatulence people urgently need to find the best way to consume soybeans.

 

秤盘里的白色粉末是石膏,它是把豆浆点化成豆腐的关键。胡学兵对于石膏的纯熟运用和他的祖先如出一辙。在煮沸的豆浆中,变性的蛋白质和石膏相遇后迅速发生胶凝作用,这种变化如此巨大,以至于在瞬间就可以觉察到。

The white power on scale is gypsum, the key to turn soy milk into tofu. Hu Xuebing can use gypsum as skillfully as his ancestors.When the denatured protein meets the gypsum, the boiling soymilk quickly coagulates. The change is so drastic that it can be see in a blink of eye in ancient days.

 

遥远的年代里,石膏常常出现在中国术士们的秘籍之中,而它和豆腐的渊源据说也恰恰与此相关。很多人相信,2000多年前,正是热衷炼丹的淮南王刘安,在八公山中用豆浆培育丹苗时碰巧加入了石膏,于是无意间促成了豆腐的诞生。不管事实是不是真的那么富有戏剧性,中国人必定经历了漫长的摸索,才让豆腐最终成为了一种了不起的中国食物。无论如何,豆腐的诞生彻底改变了大豆的命运。

Gypsum often appeared in secret scriptures of Chinese war locks. It is said that was how the relation between gypsum and tofu originated started.Over 2000 years ago, Liu An, the king of Huanan was addicted to alchemy when nurturing a mortal pill in soymilk. He happened to add some gypsum in it. Many people believe that's how tofu was invented, regardless of whether the reality was as dramatic as the story. Chinese must be coping for a long time before finally making tofu a great food of china. The invention of tofu however completely changes the fate of soybeans.

豆腐无限包容的个性,给擅长烹饪的中国人创造了极大的想象空间。那些原本让大豆尴尬的不利因素----胰蛋白酶抑制剂、不能被吸收的糖以及植酸,在中国人古老的转化手段中,都被自觉或不自觉地消除了。豆腐的出现,让人体对大豆蛋白的吸收和利用达到了一种高峰。中国厨师对豆腐的理解往往会让人大吃一惊。或许可以说,中国人用豆腐表达了自己柔软变通的适应性。所有的这些,让一粒黄豆得到了升华。这些乳白色的浆液令人浮想联翩。

[en]The great flexibility tofu offers a huge space for the imagination of the Chinese well-known for color its skill. The disadvantages of soybeans were eliminated by reason or unconsciously. As the ancient Chinese transform soybeans into tofu, the value of soybeans protein to human body reach the climax for the invention of tofu. Chinese cooks' understanding of tofu will often take you by surprise. May be it is also correct to say that the Chinese are showing their adaptability through tofu, and thus, soybean has been sublimated.The milky juice arouses many thoughts in our mind.

 

在中国北方的辽阔草原上,蒙古族的牧民也被另一种流淌的美味滋养着。9月下旬,乌珠穆沁草原已经褪去了绿色。孟克和家人抓紧时间,赶在严冬之前进行最后的出场放牧。草原的深秋充满寒意。干燥的牛粪可以让炉火烧得更旺一些。

On the vast grassland of north China,the Mongolian nomads are nourished by another flowing delicacy. In late September, the green cover is fading on Uzemchin grassland. Mengke and his family are seizing the last days of grazing before the bitter winter arrives. The chill is felt in the late autumn of grassland; dried cow manure can make the fire burn up.

 

奶茶是早餐中永远的主角。砖茶、黄油、炒米以及鲜奶是一锅奶茶的重要内容。奶豆腐是几天前做的。草原上的人离不开奶茶和奶豆腐,无法靠蔬菜和水果来补充的维生素和矿物质,都可以从这里获得。

Milk tea is always a must for breakfast. Brick tea, butter, stir-fired millet and fresh milk are the important ingredients for making milk tea. Milk curd was made several days ago. Milk tea and curd are indispensable for people living on the grassland. They provide vitamins and minerals that can't be gained from vegetables and fruits.

 

草原有着神奇的化繁为简的能力。木犊是孟克的牛,正处在哺乳期。妈妈要想顺利从母牛那里获得鲜奶,得先过小牛这一关。鲜奶已经不像天气暖和时那样容易发酵了。妈妈要抓紧时间赶制酸奶豆腐,作为漫长冬天的储备。表皮的酸奶油先被小心地舀出来,这是很珍贵的部分。发酵的牛奶结成块状的凝乳,蛋白和乳清在火力下分离开。乳清不会被浪费,它们最适合喂牲畜。需要不停地搅动,这样奶团才不会粘到锅底。最后的乳清被彻底耗干时,奶团被趁热盛进模具中。孟克把新鲜的奶豆腐最先递到爷爷面前,那是最好的美食。

Grassland has the magical power to make tings simple. Mudu the cattle of Mengke, is in the lactation period, to get fresh milk from the cow, Mengke's mother, has to get permission from the cow. Fresh milk no longer ferments as easily as during the warm days. The mother must hurry to make the milk curd as food reserve for the long winter. The sour cream on the surface is carefully ladled out and the cream is very precious. Fermented milk curdles protein and whey is separated when heated. The whey, though, won't be wasted as it best for feeding livestock. You have to keep stirring the juice, so that the curdled milk won't stick to the pot. When the whey is fully separated, the hot curdled milk is put into moulds. Mengke offers the fresh milk curd to his grandfather. It’s the best delicacy.

 

一直向南,几千公里外的云南,几乎是同样的情形。粗重的木筷被灵活地使用。一个光滑的牛奶团子很快就被揉了出来。三两下后奶团子被拉扯成片,卷上墙边的竹架。

Heading straight south, an almost identical scene is happening in Yunnan thousands of miles away. Thick and heavy chopsticks are moved vigorously. A smooth curdled "milk lump" has soon be rolled after several moves; the lump is dragged into a sheet which is then rolled up onto the bamboo rack by the wall.

 

在远离北方草原的云南大理,白族人家用相似的手法来转化这里的牛奶。乳扇被晾到场院里风干,像是挂起了巨大的风铃。

In far away Dali, Yunnan, a similarly method is adopted by the Bai minority to transfer milk Rushan, made from milk are hung and air dried in the yard just like giant wind chimes.

 

800年前,忽必烈时期的蒙古人远征到云南。定居至此的蒙古人也带来了遥远家乡的奶食味道。他们不会想到,这种转化的手法一直被流传下来,生机勃勃。

Over 800 years ago, during the reign of Kublai Khan, the expeditionary Mongolians arrived and settled in Yunnan. They brought dairy products from their home. Unexpectedly, the way to transform milk has been passed down and still prosperous even today.

 

妈妈从木盒里取出已经结实的奶豆腐。风干的奶豆腐可以保存很久。肉并不经常吃,因为牲畜太宝贵了。各种奶食几乎成为草原上的主食。

Mother takes the hardened milk curd out of the wooden box. Dried milk curd can be preserved for an extremely long time. Meat is a luxury as livestock is so precious. Dairy products have almost become the main food on the grassland.

 

这是位于北京市区的一座大型的蒙古餐厅。美味的烤羊背成为食客们的首选,它很容易让人联想到远方草原上那种粗犷的生活方式。但是对于那些身处草原腹地的人们来说,这些奶食才更贴近他们原本的生活。

This is a Mongolian restaurant in downtown Beijing. The mouth-watering roast lamb back is the top choice for dinners here. It easily reminds us of the food lifestyle on the grassland, but to people living in the depth of the grassland, milk products are more close to their real life.

 

雨让气温降到了冰点。二姐在灌木里发现了走失的羊羔。这些牛羊是家里的财产,也是牧人生命的一部分。

Rain brings the temperatures down to freezing. Mengke's second elder sister has found the lost lamb in the bush. Lamb tock are family assets and part of the nomads' life.

 

孟克换上了过冬的新袍子。热茶和奶豆腐让孟克并不觉得冷。这些奶食将持续不断地提供热量,足够支持他一上午的放牧。望远镜是爷爷当年的战利品。孟克三岁时失去父亲,从小跟着爷爷学习放牧。爷爷告诉孟克,能做好一个牧民就很好了。手持套马杆,纵身跃上马背,孟克觉得自己充满力量。

Mengke has changed into his new winter robe. Hot tea and milk curd keep him warm, and the milk products will continually provide calories to sustain the entirely morning's herding. The telescope is the legacy of his grandfather's. Mengke lost his father at the age of three. He learned to herd with his grandfather. His grandfather has told him that it's good enough to be a qualified herdsman. Host poling in hands, Mengke threw himself on the horse, feeling full of strength.

 

草原之外的地区,游牧被农耕取代,人们没有条件大规模地放牧牛羊,有限的土地首先被用来耕种,乳制品最终没能在中原的厨房站得一席之地。农耕文明中的人们转而将目光投向另外一种植物资源,去获取宝贵的蛋白质,另辟蹊径地在植物范畴寻找到了蛋白质的支持。这对历史上缺乏肉食的中国人来说,即是智慧也是一种幸运。

 

Out the grassland, herding is substituted by farming. Without the conditions for grazing cattle and sheep, people choose to cultivate the limited land. Dairy products have failed to hold this position in kitchens of central China. People living in farming culture have shifted their eyes to other plant resources to obtain precious protein. It was revolutionary for the Chinese to gain protein from plants. To the Chinese who historically had insufficient meat supply, the discovery is wisdom as well as luck.

 

在浙江天台山的古老寺庙中,僧人们正准备开始他们一天中重要的一餐,修行者的食谱是全素的。修行的生活很清苦,即便是进餐,也是一种功课。事实上只有中国的汉地佛教,才真正将食素作为一种戒律来遵守。这深刻影响了一千多年间中国人的素食传统。

In the ancient temple of Mount Tiantai, the monks are preparing the most important meal of a day. Monk has vegetarian diet. The monastic life is poor and simple, even dinning is a practice of Buddhism. In fact, only Han Buddhism in China includes vegetarian diet as its religious disciplines. That has deeply impact to traditional vegetarianism in China over the past 1000 years.

 

来源于植物的豆腐,既符合严苛的心理戒律,同时又能在营养上给予身体最大的支持。在蛋白质的提供上,大豆食品是惟一能够媲美肉类的植物性食材。对于素食者来说,这相当完美。

Originating from plants, tofu can follow the strict disciplines, and it provides the best possible nutrition for the body. Soybean is the only plant food that matches meat for protein quality. So to vegetarians, it's perfect despite its plainness.

 

中国的豆腐在清寡中暗含了某种精神层面的气质。古人称赞豆腐有和德。吃豆腐的人能安于清贫,而做豆腐的人也懂得顺其自然

Chinese tofu is given a certain spiritual quality. The ancient people praised it saying tofu has merits. Those who have tofu are contained within simple life, and those who make tofu understand as to let life take its course.

 

安徽南部,独特的地理环境和温润的气候促成了人们恬淡保守的气质,也孕育出了特有的食物。这些附着白色菌丝的奇特食物,它们的实质是豆腐。还没到能够大量生产的季节,方兴玉家的毛豆腐奇货可居,在中午之前就会告罄。

The unique geological environment and mild weather in southern Anhui have form calm and conserved qualities in its people, though so produced unique food. The strange food covered with white hypha is actually tofu. As the season for mass production has not yet arrive, the hairy tofu in Fang Xingyu's shop is a rare commodity worth holding. It will be sold out before noon.

 

豆腐上浓密的绒毛带给人们丰富的联想,比如说动物。这里的确有生命。白色的细丝是毛霉菌的菌丝,是它们赋予豆腐新的活力。很难想象这种食物是如何诞生的。

The heavy hair covering tofu launches our imagination. We link it , for example, to animal, and there is indeed a life in it. The white thin hair is the hypha of mucor, which gives tofu a new vitality. It’s hard to believe how this food is actually made.

 

如今,方兴玉把豆腐坊的大部分工作交给了大女儿。作为家中的长女,妈妈把她和豆腐坊的未来联系在一起。

Today, Fang Xingyu has handed over most of the workshop to her elder daughter. Fang has begun to associate her future of the shop with her.

 

豆浆的表皮渐渐凝结,这是大豆富含油脂的表现。但是对于制作毛豆腐来讲,油脂是多余的。

The surface of soybean milk gradually coagulates, which shows the soybean is rich in oil, but to produce hairy tofu, oil is not required.

 

油豆皮被晾晒在竹筷上,风干后成为毛豆腐的副产品,它们是另一种质感的美食。制作毛豆腐的关键在于用自制的发酵酸水来点卤。酸性物质可以同样让大豆蛋白凝固,但是酸水更大的意义在于伴随着点卤的过程,其中的微生物们也随之流入,像种子一样被埋植进豆腐当中。

Tofu skin is hung on the chopstick when air dried and become a by-product of hairy tofu. In other delicacy with a totally different texture, the key to produce hairy tofu is to add self-made "sour juice" into soymilk for fermentation. The sour substance can make soy protein clot. What's more important is that microorganisms flow into the milk with the pouring of sour juice. It's just like burying seeds into tofu.

 

在中国的任何地方,做豆腐都是极其辛苦的工作。餐桌上,一家人陆续进入和离开,最后回来的是姐姐。妹妹要陪姐姐吃完已经冷了的一餐。对于妈妈和姐姐来说,生活的很多部分已经和豆腐坊牢牢长在了一起。

No matter wherever you are in China making tofu is an extremely hard work. Family members sit down and out and leave the dinning table in succession. The elder sister is always the last one to come. Her sister will accompany her to finish the already cold dishes.To the mother and the elder sister, the tofu workshop has already become a major part of their lives.

 

方兴玉是不会在湿热的夏天做毛豆腐的。桑拿天里,人们很难控制豆腐发酵的走向。但是在其它的季节里,徽州温润的环境却能引导微生物们走上发酵的正轨。方兴玉希望与这有关的一切,自己的女儿都能够学习和领悟到。

Fang will not make hairy tofu in the sultry summer.We can't control the fermentation of tofu in sauna days.But in other seasons, the warm and humid environment in Huizhou makes microorganisms ferment properly. Fang hopes her daughter can learn and understand everything about making tofu.

 

这些绒毛,它们是霉菌、酵母菌和细菌们是否和谐生长的指标。这直接关系到发酵的进程以及最终味道的鲜美与否。

The hair is actually fungi, the index showing whether the yeast and germs are growing harmoniously. It decides the progress of fermentation and whether the final product is delicious or not.

 

深谙美食的徽州人是毛豆腐的知音。吃法可繁可简。在老徽州眼中,一点辣酱就可以让炭火上的豆腐锦上添花了。豆腐的内部已经大为不同了,毛霉菌分泌蛋白酶,让大豆蛋白降解成小分子的胨类、多肽和氨基酸。这一系列转化,赋予了豆腐异常的鲜美,这种浓郁的风味被徽州人称作家乡的味道

Huizhou people who are gourmets can truly appreciate hairy tofu. You can have it in a simple or complicated way. In the mind of old Huizhou people, a little bit of chilly sauce goes best with coal roast tofu. The interia of tofu is completely different. Mucor secretes proteinase making soy protein degrades into smaller molecules of peptones, polypeptide and amino acid. This series of transformations give tofu an incomparable flavor. Huizhou people call this strong flavor—a flavor of hometown.

 

菌丝间细小的颗粒是散落的孢子,那是毛豆腐成熟的标志。聪明的中国人对这些微小生物的运用得心应手。事实上,这种转化的智慧在更为久远的年代里,就已经熠熠生辉了。

The small grains among the hypha are spores, and an indication of the hairy tofu is properly matured. The clever Chinese are profession in using the microorganisms. In fact, the wisdom of transformation sparkled early in ancient times.

 

酒,应该是人们利用微生物进行食物转化的最早的案例了。用稻米酿出的黄酒是世界上最古老的酒类之一。立冬的清晨,绍兴的天空开始下起小雨。这对酿酒师傅们来说,是个好征兆。酵母菌喜欢江南冬季这种绵长而又不剧烈的冷。

Wine is probably the earliest case of how people transform food with microorganisms. Huangjiu, literally meaning yellow wine brewed from rice, is one of the oldest wine in the world. It's the morning of Lidong, the start of winter. It has started to drizzle in Shaoxing. It's a good sign for wine makers. Yeast favors the long but mild coldness of winter in Jiangnan, south of the lower Yangtze valley.

 

在酒厂的老车间里,师傅们进进出出,准备着祭祀用的贡品。今天是请酒神的日子,没有人怠慢。即便是最好的酿酒师傅,也无法保证年年都能酿出好酒,因为有捉摸不定的天、风、空气,还有菌。每一年的仪式都是酿酒师们对自然表达的一种尊重。

The wine makers go in and out of the wine workshop getting ready for tributes of the sacrifice. This is the day to worship the god of wine; no one dares to slight it, even the best wine maker can not ensure he can brew the best wine every year due to the capricious weather, wind, air and fungi. Every year, the sacrifice is for the wine makers to show their reverence for nature.

 

绍兴的黄酒冬酿即将开始。和绍兴处在同一纬度线上同属古越地区的安徽省休宁县,73岁的陈进顺也在忙着酿造自家的糯米酒。对于老人来说,做酒算不上一件难事。

Winter brewing is about to begin in Shaoxing, also located in the Guyuan region, Xiuning of Anhui is on the same latitude as Shaoxing. 73 years old Cheng Jingshun is busy brewing homemade glutinous rice wine. Brewing wine isn't difficult for old people.

 

富庶的江南地区,稻米是生活中不可缺少的部分。年前正是农闲,做几坛米酒祭神敬祖、招待客人、犒劳自己,都是自然不过的事。

In the abundant Jiangnan, rice is an indispensable part of life here. It's only natural to make several jars of wine to treat them and treat the guests as well as worship gods during the slack season of farming.

 

蚕茧般的酒曲是酿酒的灵魂,可以把它理解成接上了菌的种子。这些稻粉和辣蓼草的混合体,里面沉睡者形形色色的发酵菌,等待合适的时机苏醒。

The cocoon shaped Jiuqu or fermentation starter, is the soul of wine making. Jiuqu is considered to be "the seed of yeast". A variety of the yeasts are laying in the mixture of rice powder and red….herbs. They are waiting for the perfect time to wake up.

 

陈进顺把碾碎的酒曲均匀地和糯米拌在一起。酒曲是中国人了不起的发明,是人们试图捕捉和驯化微生物的最古老而有效的尝试。这是酿酒中最重要的一步,它们将带来转化中最神奇的部分。

Cheng mixes the crushed Jiuqu with glutinous rice. Jiuqu is a great invention of the Chinese people, the most ancient and effective attempt of human beings at taming microorganisms. This is the most important step of making wine which will bring about the most magical part of the transformation.

 

拌好的糯米被拨出一个深深的酒窝,再把指缝间的每一粒米都抹进缸中,撒上最后一把酒曲。之后的一切,都要交给时间了。那些霉菌就会把糯米中的淀粉变成糖,而酵母菌们负责把糖变成酒精。在黑暗中,仿佛传来发酵菌们欢快的歌声。时间越久,酒越醇香。黄酒绵长而厚重,中国人可以从这一种饮品里同时品味出两种境界。

A deep hole is dug in the well mixed rice. Not a single grain of rice will be wasted. To distribute the last handful of Jiuqu powder, all the procedures are finished. Now we will just let time deal with the rest of the work. The moulds will change the starch into sugar. The yeast will turn the sugar into alcohol. We can almost hear the hilarious singing of yeast spreading from the darkness. The longer the time, the more fragrant the wine will become. Huangjiu's flavor is thick and strong, and it stays for long.The Chinese can taste both the "tenderness" and the "toughness" in the wine.

 

饮黄酒的绍兴人不温不火,他们对传统的固守也有滋有味地流淌在舌尖上。绍兴人离不开酱油,这几乎成为绍兴最醒目的一种味觉标记。什么都可以酱一酱再吃。足够的盐度可以让食物在湿潮的环境里久放不坏。在酱油里翻滚过的任何食物都被赋予了浓重的酱香味,它们被本地人称作家乡菜

Huangjiu-drinking Shaoxing people are mild and moderate, and their persistence to the tradition has allowed them to enjoy the time on their flavor.Almost every household in Shaoxing has soy sauce. Soy sauce is a must in the lives of the Shaoxing people, which has already become the most distinctive taste identity of Shaoxing. All the food can be braised in soy sauce. Enough salt allows food to stay fresh in humidity. Food rolled in soy sauce gives us a special aroma. Local people call it the "cuisine of home".

 

这里是自古的繁荣富庶之地。如今,许多人家仍然乐于枕河而居,过闲适的日子。

Historically, Shaoxing has been a prosperous and abundant land. Even today, many people love to reside by the river enjoying a relaxed life.

 

城外的安昌古镇,街市临水而建。正是做腊味的季节,长短的竹竿上彰显出富足。安昌的腊肠在中国的江浙一带很有名气。腊肠浓厚的滋味很大一部分要归功于当地酿造的酱油。酱园里,露天的空场上排列着上百只硕大的酱缸。五十六岁的丁国云依然身手矫健。酱料粘稠、厚重,需要人力定时的上下翻动,酱缸内的发酵才会均匀。在这些酱缸里,微生物的世界互相制约,此消彼长。

The ancient town of Anchang, outside Shaoxing city, is built along the river. It's the season for making preserved meats. Bamboo poles of different length display their abundance. The sausage of Anchang is very famous in Zhejiang. Its good flavor is largely attributed to the locally brewed sauce. Dozens of giant jars standing in the yard of sauce shop. 56-year-old Ding Guoyun still works vigorously. The sauce is thick and stinky. Workers have to stir it with the fixed schedule to ensure the fermentation takes place evenly within the jar, and within the jar the microorganisms will restricted one another, one kind's lose is another's gain.

 

酱缸修修补补用了几十年。阳光的暴晒能够增加菌的活力,但是雨水可能会搞砸一切。酱缸的帽子不时地被拿下来扣上去,时间就在这反复的声响中流走。

The jars have been through many repairs during the past several decades. The direct exposure in the sun can greatly stimulate the vitality of yeast, but rain could ruin everything. Time slips always in the repeated sound of lids of jars, being moved away and put back.

 

中国的酱,在人类的发酵史上独树一帜,数千年间,它成就了中国人餐桌上味道的基础。

The sauce of China started the trend of human beings' history of fermentation. Several thousands of years had passed, and it has become a fundamental flavor on dinning tables in China.

 

在中国的北方,酱的意味更加直接。王月英家的酱缸里只剩下一层缸底。足够的盐度,让酱在严冬中也不容易结冻。在寒冷的东北,长久以来盐以酱的形式成为人们身体和心理的一种依靠。

In north China, the meaning of sauce is more straightforward. Only a little paste is left in the jar of Wang Yuying's. Enough salt ensures the sauce won't get frozen in sever winter. In chilly northeast China, quiet a long time, salt in a form of sauce, has provided a physical and psychological support for people.

 

再过三个月就是下新酱的时候了,但是准备的工作却要从现在开始。煮熟的黄豆在锅里直接被捣烂。在中国的东北地区,人们做酱只用大豆这一种材料。这样的单一也是一种奢侈。

3 months later, it will be time to make new soybean paste, but the preparation work will start now. The cooked soybeans are smashed in the pot. In northeast China, soybean is the only ingredient for making sauce. The monopoly is also a luxury.

 

黑龙江有中国最肥沃的黑土地,这里的耕种和收获急促而短暂,却能出产最好的大豆。温暖的火炕上,六只手合力把豆泥堆砌成型。酱的味道甚至可以成为衡量一个主妇合格与否的标准。捆绑成结实的酱坯被挂上墙。在之后的两个月里,它们静静的发酵,等到来年春天,再开始更深入的转化。

Heilongjiang province boasts the most fertile black soil in China. The farm and the harvest here is short and hasty, but the place produces the best soybeans. On the heated bed, six hands work together to pile the smashed beans into shape. The taste of the paste can even be the standard to measure whether a housewife is qualified. The tightly wrapped warm paste is hung on the wall. Over the course of the next 2 months, it will quietly ferment, and when spring arrives, the transformation will get even more dramatic.

 

冬季在强大的蒙古高压的笼罩之下,北方的寒冷甚于版图中的其他地区。面对严寒,人总有变通。在腌菜缸中经历30多天复杂的发酵进程,白菜获得了重生。北方人对酸菜的情感毫无造作。在近7个月的寒冷季节里,这种腌菜几乎代表了一种生活的方式。用力攥出菜叶中发酵的酸水,一来去除苦涩的味道,二来使酸菜本身的质地更加脆韧。酸菜散发出令人愉悦的开胃的酸香味,那是乳酸的味道。发酵后,草酸被分解,产生了肽和氨基酸,这一切都带来鲜美的风味。对于酸菜来说,绝佳的搭配是和猪肉在一起。酸菜巧妙地化解了猪肉的油腻。东北人的柴锅里不流于精致的外在形式,它们的内容有如东北人的性格----豪爽大方。

Under the powerful Siberian high winter in north China. It is more unbearable than any other places.  Facing the sever chill, people will learn to adapt themselves. After a more than 30-day complicated fermentation, the Chinese cabbage in the jar has gained a whole new life. The northern people have an unaffected love for pickled cabbage. In the winter which lasts for nearly 7 months, the pickles have almost become a lifestyle. Squeezing out the sour water in the leaves, not only get rid of the bitterness but also make the cabbage taste crispier, the pickled cabbage gives out a pleasant and savory sour fragment that is the smell of lactic acid. After the fermentation, oxalate acid is discomposed. When dissolved in water, protein gives out peptide and amino acid which bring out this great flavor. The best partner of pickle cabbage is pork. Pickled cabbage subtly mutualizes the natural grease of pork. The caldron of northern Chinese doesn't enjoy a delicate look, but they content inside the caldron is just like the personality of the locals—straightforward and generous.

 

今天,孩子们要回家看望父母。一顿酸菜馅的饺子将成为今晚餐桌上的主角。

Today, the children are all come back to visit their parents. The pickled stuffed cabbage dumplings will be the main course for dinner.

 

时间流转,生命红火,这一年就这样过去了。

Time flies as usual, and life remains prosperous. Another year has passed.