帆板运动

原子弹 · 2005-07-30 03:00

帆板，是介于帆船和冲浪之间的新兴水上运动项目，帆板由带有稳向板的板体、有万向节的桅杆、帆和帆杆等组成。
    稳向板：帆板前进时可以起到减少板体横移、提高前进效率和稳定航向的作用。

    尾鳍：可以减少帆板曲线航行。

    帆具：桅、帆杆连同帆前后角索等装置，是为了支撑和调整帆。桅、帆杆及其附属装置与它们所支持的帆，构成帆板前进的动力源。

    加长管：桅有了加长管就可以配合级别规则规定的大、小帆型使用，使其适用性更大。

    万向节：是板体与桅杆的分合装置，它可以使桅杆随意转动和倾斜，使帆和风十分合理地接触，获得最大的前进动力。

    板体：这个类似墨鱼盖的浮力体，其首上翘较尖，尾部较平滑，适合于半滑或滑行艇原理。帆板底部做成导流型凹线，起到稳定板体、加速滑行的作用。

    桅滑轨：这种装置使帆具又增加了纵向移动的自由度，这种移动可以改变帆的重心的前后位置，进一步满足了各种风向、风速操作的需要。

原子弹 · 2005-08-02 00:18

扳上站起之前，抓帆绳
帆与扳垂直
两脚在帆杆两侧，肩宽
用帆绳助平衡
曲膝，背直，慢慢向后倾。
帆会慢慢起。开始感到重，等水干，变轻。

帆起到一半，感到风。保持帆与扳垂直。让风转帆扳。

原子弹 · 2005-08-02 03:36

在全年采取周期训练方法，就是说全年训练计划包括训练周期：比赛和一个过度。目前，所有帆板运动员几乎都按这种周期训练计划进行训练。
多年来，在安排次序是这样的，周期结束时，都要进行比赛。比赛（6-8月份）这周期比赛很重要。因为省锦标赛是对教练员一年工作的检查。一次比赛结束后，正好是学生暑期放假，为使运动员恢复体力，要安排他们休息（过度期）时间半个月，就意味着本季节的训练过程结束。
竞赛帆板运动员在训练期间，第一阶段经常犯如下错误：基本上用速度摇进手段代替一切训练。结果专项训练高峰提前过早，所以在比赛中出现运动成绩停滞不前。甚至下降。
在训练周期第一阶段，应特别注意加强全面身体素质训练，其主要手段就是发展运动员技术摇帆速度力量素质。加强全面身体训练，可能延缓速度的出现。甚至可以说，对帆板技术产生不良影响。但后果是好的，在帆板队的例子证明这种观点是站得住脚的。
近年来根据训练场地的情况，把全队分成两个组进行训练；第一组运动员进行全面身体训练，上午（1-1.5小时），下午按计划水上训练，在起水前练习迎顺风转向及摇帆，约10分钟左右。第二组运动员忙于水上训练而完全不进行全面身体训练，他们只完成一个水上训练计划。结果，第二组只接近自己较好的成绩。
再进行第二阶段的训练。这时第一组每天进行1-1.5小时的全面身体训练。训练手段多半采用有强度性游戏和活泼性的游戏，然后让运动员水上技术综合性进行训练。第二组水上进行大运动量训练，例如长距离4*5000米，（间歇8-10分钟），绕大三角标，4轮，每轮（间歇五分钟）。
在比赛期开始上强度，增加速度负荷，赛前打基础对每一个运动员来说都是一样的，但是第一组运动员就是在比赛中获得较好的成绩。
这就说明了一个问题，那就是全面身体的训练和水上训练的正确结合的重要性。为此运动员在整个训练季节过程中，能承受大运动量的训练。系统地有计划的对帆板运动员进行训练的特点就是不是逐渐提高成绩（在一年过程中）而能使运动员在指定时间出好成绩。
经过分析近几年来训练过程，可以得出上述结论。
由于在训练中放松练占半数，所以有些运动员在比赛前训练就出现懒洋洋的现象，还有些运动员由于专攻素质差和缺乏应有的身体训练。所以，在最后摇帆摇不出速度来，有时甚至摇一半，最后三分之一或四分之一就减速了，这就彻底失败了。
还有一个很重要的原因就是比赛中 ，运动员缺乏意志锻炼，该队有些运动员在比赛时精神处于紧张状态，他们对自己缺乏信心，缺乏拼搏精神。
对一个教练员来说：应如何组织训练，在训练中对运动员应注意哪些问题？
在整个训练过程中，特别是基本期训练，要特别注意改进技术动作，为了更好地分析技术动作，必须充分利用运动的客观固定方法。（电影、录像、幻灯）还可以通过海上训练观察运动员动作。
分析横风驾驶技术训练作为重点训练内容，并提出了更进一步的详细的技术要求：
（１）巩固并进一步提高船向稳定和迎角（帆角）稳定的控制能力，实际训练中体会到这“两稳”互相依存，互相影响。一好则二好，一差则都差。这“两稳”搞好了，就是提高速度的有效方法。
（２）在巩固提高上述“两稳”的基础上，分头训练稳向板滑行和尾鳍滑行两种技术方法，并根据水速风向角大小协调两种技术之间的转换关系。
当教练发现运动员在技术动作上有毛病时，就应纠正。事后要经常检查他的动作。为了防止再出毛病要布置新练习。运动员身体素质的好坏和训练强度的大小，在训练中具有决定意义（进行强度的训练与总量的关系）。提高强度训练有两种处理方法：第一种，自由掌握一半力，四分之三的力，全力。第二种，从80-75%慢量，85%适中量，90%高量，95%近限量，100%极限量。
一半力，四分之三的力或其它比例的力也好，都是一种条件。所有运动的身体机能都能够迅速适应这种条件。另外还有一种说法，运动员无论在摇帆愿不愿意用四分之三的力量，他的自我感觉只有一种力和所能发挥出来的那种力，也就是他所能发挥的最大的力。
教练从第一天起，就必须对运动员进行力量耐力和专项耐力的训练。
耐力，它能在任何种类活动中促使人们抵制疲劳，在体育实践中人们把耐力分为力量耐力和速度耐力，力量耐力能使运动员在较长持续时间里，完成大量运动量的各种科目，速度耐力能使运动员在主项赛程内保持高速度，帆板运动员的专项耐力摇帆耐力，用专业练习来提高运动员的摇帆耐力。在专项练习中，安排的运动量和休息，应考虑到运动员的机体处于不完全恢复的功能状态。为发展速度耐力可采用如下各种练习，短、中、长距离（100——500米）一组（2 * 400米、3 * 500米）等。在正常情况下，休息一分钟没有完全恢复，甚至多次进行中长距离（6—8 * 500米和再长）训练，或短距离从200米到500米的强度训练以上。（没有完全恢复）
对经过专门帆板训练较熟练的运动员的训练计划如下：
第一天、１—３标距离５００米。２轮，每轮间歇１分钟。后自由练习（操帆两个转向）等。
第二天、１—３标５００米３轮。每轮间歇１分钟，后（转向、摇帆）
第三天、１—３标距离５００米３轮，每轮间歇１分钟后，计１分钟转向次数，多次。
第四天、航线是曲型的“奥林匹克”航线：三角形迎风、横风、侧顺风，呈４５度—９０度—４５度的三角形。起航—１—２—３—１—３—终点，航程３０００米，２轮间歇２０分钟。
第五天、奥林匹克航线２轮后，练习迎风转、顺风转。
第六天、小测验，奥林匹克场地２轮后，计几次１分钟迎风转、顺风转。
除此之外，经过帆板训练的运动员，在每个练习中，要求必须摇帆。
这种提高摇帆耐力的训练方法，由于在训练帆板运动员中较少应用。因此，目前对此还很难给予评价，但队内个别运动员经训练实验结果证明是好的。特别是经过短、中、长距离摇帆训练的运动员更证明是好的。
无论在竞赛期还是在其他训练周期，对一个教练员来说，重要的是不使运动员在精神上和体质上疲劳。
出现疲劳的特征往往在下列情况下：在静止状态下运动的脉搏和呼吸加快，体重下降，食欲不佳，出现厌水现象。技术动作紊乱，睡眠不正常，在训练过程中萎靡不振、心博过速。
清除精神疲劳的良药是用温和的方法，而不是用训练负荷加大的方法。有时不仅要降低训练强度，而且要减少海上训练的时数。
迄今还有这样一种意见。就是说当帆板运动员竞技状态不佳时，由于天气、水流、风速等客观原因。我不同意这种看法，为了培养运动员热爱本项，就必须给他条件，经常练，同时还要全力以赴。经常参加各种比赛能使运动员树立信心。
综上所述，要提高帆板运动员的技术水平，必须掌握科学的训练方法，在强化力体素质的同时也应加强水上摇帆的技能技巧。这是运动员取得好成绩的保证。

原子弹 · 2005-08-03 05:13

帆起到一半，感到风。保持帆与扳垂直。让风转帆扳。将体重平分到双脚。

原子弹 · 2005-08-03 06:26

当帆扳停转，风由身后吹来。帆扳在相对风向3点或9点。

原子弹 · 2005-08-04 00:42

当帆扳停转，风由身后吹来。帆扳在相对风向3点或9点。此时腰背要直，膝微弯。两脚在帆杆两侧，肩宽，帆与扳保持垂直，直到帆完全拉起。这一过程要用体重来平衡帆扳。

原子弹 · 2005-08-04 05:31

中性位置
帆与扳保持垂直，帆顺风向，无作用力。
用体重来平衡帆扳。
中性位置需要的体能最小。当你失去平衡时，摆到中性位置，稳定后，再作下一动作。

原子弹 · 2005-08-08 00:23

脚后移，前脚紧靠在帆杆，双脚肩宽，后脚在帆扳中。前手紧靠在帆杆, 双手一个半肩宽。体重是用来平衡帆和帆力的，当帆力大时，体重靠近帆力作用中心。1/3帆。

原子弹 · 2005-08-23 05:03

前手慢慢伸直，后手慢慢拉帆，双膝微弯。你开始感到风谷满帆，拉你身体前倾。用体重来平衡这一帆力，双膝弯。像蹲厕所一样，背可放松。

原子弹 · 2005-08-27 01:59

    風浪板與帆船最大的差異在於它的操作方式。帆船是坐著的，一手操作舵桿，另一隻手透過操帆繩控制帆面與風之間的角度來捕捉風的動力，而且桅桿一定是垂直固定於船身上的。
       但是風浪板的操作者必須站在一塊狹長的板子上，用手抓著一副可以往任意方向折的帆。因此操作者必須要有靈巧的身手，才能一方面保持身體的平衡，一方面又能讓船身往你期望的方向前進。
       學習風浪板的技術難度頗高，但它所能回饋給你的成就感與刺激感也最高，因為它既快速又靈活，並且能讓身心隨時處在高度專注的狀態。不過也不要把它想得太難，在合格的教練指導下，祇要你年紀在十五歲以上，學個四五天就可以體驗御風而行的快感了。
      風浪板習慣上分為『長板』及『短板』。長度固然是因素之一，但最主要的差異在於有無中央板的設計，有中央板的叫『長板』，沒有中央板的叫『短板』。
     中央板的好處在於可以讓船隻頂風航行 (與正逆風差某一角度航行，一般在45度角上下)的角度更小，不容易產生側移，並加強船身的穩定性。但如果沒有中央板，則可以讓船隻的轉向更靈活，適合作花式的表演動作，故短板有一別名叫FUNBOARD。一般這兩型的風浪板不會放在一起比賽。

原子弹 · 2005-09-07 00:19

Sailboats and windsurfers get their propulsion the wind blowing past the sail. As the wind flows past the sail, air travels more quickly past the leeward surface of the sail, and more slowly past the windward surface of the sail. This creates a high pressure on the windward surface of the sail, and a low pressure on the leeward surface of the sail. The result is a net force, called lift, that acts between the pressure difference. We can thank Bernoulli for describing the physics that apply here.
Most of this lift acts perpendicular to the direction of travel (when sailing upwind or on a reach), but the combination of the centerboard, rail, and fin counteract this force and allow minimal side-slip. Fortunately, the rest of the lift acts in the direction of travel and propels the board forward.
You can never sail straight into the wind source, only about 30 degrees or more away from the source of the wind. This is because at small angles to the wind, there is no component of lift pushing you forward; this component actually begins to act backwards. Think of the possible angles that you can sail as points on a wind clock. The 12 o’clock position is where the wind is coming from and 6 o’clock is the direction the wind is going.
Between 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock your board will not sail. In fact, you’re very likely to stop moving or to move backwards. This area of the wind clock is called “in irons.”
To get to a point directly upwind, it is necessary to sail out toward 2 o’clock and then tack, moving the bow through the wind until the wind is coming over the right or starboard side of the board to sail toward 10 o’clock. Sailing at 10 or 2 o’clock is called beating or sailing close hauled, with the back of the sail hauled in close to the centerline of the board. Sailers frequently call the process of getting upwind by sailing close hauled and tacking sailing upwind. On a sailboard this is tricky for beginners to master. Still, it can be important to learn to sail upwind.
Sailing across the wind to either 3 or 9 o’clock is the easiest on a sailboard; however, it does not get you upwind and often times it does not help you to get back to the pier. This point of sail is called a beam reach because the wind is perpendicular across the beam of the board. Heading up is when your board turns toward the wind source. Bearing away or falling off is when your board turns away from the wind source. Since “falling off” has its own unique (but well-known) meaning for boardsailors, “bearing away” or “turning away” from the wind are the terms frequently used.
Sheeting in is when you move the back of the sail more toward the middle of the board (by pulling in on your back hand). Sheeting out is when you move the back of the sail out away from the middle of the board. As you steer downwind (going from close-hauled to a beam reach, for example) you should sheet out. As you steer upwind (going from a broad reach to a beam reach, for example) you should sheet in.
Having your sail over trimmed is a common mistake among boardsailors. It’s when the sail is sheeted in beyond the point where the sail is working efficiently. You only need to sheet in until the sail becomes powered up. The clew, or back end of the sail, should never cross over the back of the board. When the sail is “powered up” it will feel as though the sail is trying to pull you over the front of the board. Counteract the power of the sail by leaning back with your body weight. You should always be trimming the sail, sheeting in and out to make sure the sail is powered but not over powered. It should feel like the sail is pulling hard that you can barely support it with your body weight.
The sails have fiberglass rods, or battens. Battens give the sail shape and stability by preventing the sail from luffing, as well as keeping a constant sail shape when the sail is powered. Luffing is when the leading edge of the sail (the luff) flaps or luffs in the wind. Luffing is an indicator that the sail is too far out (away from the midline of the board). To avoid over trimming your sail, never pull the sail across the centerline of your board.
There are many other useful sailing terms to learn. Check your Hoofer Sailing Club Tech Manual to learn more of them. The lingo is half the battle.

原子弹 · 2005-09-11 23:54

Uphauling the Sail
Before you stand up, reach out and get the uphaul.
Turn the board perpendicular to the sail by placing one hand on the mast and the other hand on the board and moving them together or apart. Stand with your feet evenly spaced on both sides of the mast about shoulder width apart. Use the uphaul to help you keep your balance.
While holding the end of the uphaul, bend your knees (keeping your back and arms straight to save energy) and lean back steadily. After a while, the sail will slowly start to lift. It may seem heavy at first, but as the water drains off it will become lighter. When the sail is about halfway out of the water, the wind may catch it and turn your board around. Just keep the sail perpendicular to the board and let the wind turn you around. Keep your weight balanced evenly on each foot.

When the board stops turning, the wind will be at your back and your board will be pointing to “3 o’clock” or “9 o’clock.” At this point your arms and back should be straight (to prevent back pain) and your knees bent. Your feet should be shoulder width apart on the centerline, with the universal centered between your feet. Again, keeping the sail perpendicular to the board and your knees bent, you can lift the sail completely out of the water by slowly pulling the uphaul hand-over-hand. Initially you may fall backwards as the end of the sail becomes free of the water. This is part of learning to balance your weight against the rig.

原子弹 · 2005-09-11 23:55

Neutral Position
Once the sail is just out of the water and the board is still perpendicular to the mast, this position is called neutral. It is called neutral because the sail is depowered and luffing in the wind. You are also “depowered,” balancing the rig with your weight. This position requires very little energy. When you lose your balance, return to neutral. From here, you can recover and restart, or turn around (more on turning later).
Ready, Set, Go!

To get moving, we like to teach people a sequence of steps called Ready, Set, Go! This system gives you cues to remember where to put your hands, feet and body.
To get to the Ready position, move your feet towards the back of the board. Your back foot should be just in front of or just behind the centerboard knob. Bring your front foot against the universal and turn it about 45° towards the front of the board.
Concentrate on keeping the sail perpendicular to the board.

原子弹 · 2005-09-11 23:56

To get to the Set position, first locate your front hand. That will be the hand closest to the front of the board. Let go of the uphaul with your front hand (but still hold on with your back hand). Cross your front hand over your back hand and grab the front of the boom, very close to the clamp. Pull the mast slightly toward yourself, tilting the sail slightly forward while you do this. Let go of the uphaul with your back hand and grab the boom a comfortable distance behind your front hand.
To Go, straighten your front arm slowly, pull your back hand in and keep your knees bent. When you straighten your front arm, the sail will fill with wind and you will feel it begin to pull you forward. Counterbalance this pull with your weight by keeping your hips under your shoulders and more of your weight on your back foot. If you bend your knees and pretend that you are sitting down, there will be less strain on your back.
At this point your elbows should be slightly bent, your back straight, and most of your weight on your back foot. You should feel like you are driving the board forward with your front foot. Keep the mast slightly forward, and the clew slightly up.
Basic Tacking
Sooner or later you will need to turn around. You can do this two ways:
1.  1. Point the board upwind and tack, or
2.  2. Point the board downwind and jibe.
When you are beginning, the tack is preferable, because it keeps you heading upwind.
To do a tack (also called a come about), sweep the clew (back end of your sail) towards the water while you continue to hold the boom in. At the same time, put pressure on your back foot (which is the same foot that you are sweeping the sail towards). The board will turn upwind. Just before you lose your balance and fall, let go with the backhand and grab the uphaul. Then grab the uphaul with your front hand. While holding onto the uphaul line try to swing the clue of the sail around the back of the board. As the sail rotates around the back of the board keep your body facing the back of the mast. Even though it will feel like the sail is turning around the back of the board it is actually the board turning around the sail. The sail will always be pointing down wind. It is only the board that is turning. When the sail has crossed over the back of the board keep rotating the sail until it is perpendicular to the board. You have now completed the tack and should be pointing in the opposite direction, at either 3 or 9 o’clock. Get your feet in position and continue with Ready, Set, Go.
As your skill becomes more developed you will be able to allow the board to turn way into the wind source (even as far as the new direction). Just before you fall, let go with your back hand and with that hand grab the boom on the other side. Tilt the sail forward, and momentarily hold the mast slightly away from you and take off. The goal is to have the board keep moving forward through the water as you tack.

原子弹 · 2005-09-12 23:59

Turning
Before long you will get tired of beam reaching (sailing the 3 and 6 o’clock positions) and you will want to try turning into the wind and away from the wind. To head up (turn towards the wind), lower your clew towards the water. To bear off (turn away from the wind), bring your clew away from the water. When you are headed in the desired direction, straighten your rig. An easy way to remember which way to move your sail is to remember that to turn towards the wind, push the clew towards the water. To turn away from the wind, bring the clew away from the water.
If you get caught in irons, drop back to neutral and do Ready, Set, Go before you attempt to turn again. You might want to review the section on theory to see how you adjust your sail trim to each point of sail.
Planing and Foot Steering
Up to this point you may have been steering the board primarily by moving the clew of the sail towards or away from the water. This works well in light winds for making slow turns but it is unsuitable for high winds or faster turns in light winds. Foot steering is the answer.
In light winds, when the board is not planing, the board is tilted in the opposite direction you want the board to go. For example, to head up, sink the leeward rail; to bear off, sink the windward rail. In light winds you will also have to steer with the sail but your turns will be much quicker. This technique can be used to make your jibes and tacks much easier and quicker.
To jibe, bear off as much as you can by using traditional sail and foot steering. The next step is crucial: step back, way back on the board. With the bow of the board out of the water and the tail sunk, tilt the board to sink the windward rail. If all goes well, the board will spin astonishingly fast. To stop the turn, simply step forward. This will level the board. At this point you should be able to sail on the new tack with the sail clew-first.
Now, grab the mast with one hand and let the sail swing around to its new tack. Be careful not to let the clew hit the water on its way around. Watch the more advanced sailors to get an idea of the timing of the sequence of events.
In heavy winds, bearing off by raking the sail is a good way to get launched. When the board is planing, it can be steered like a skateboard. Tilt the board in the direction you want to go. To bear off, put pressure on the leeward rail; to head up, put pressure on the windward rail. Also, in order for high wind foot steering to be effective, the centerboard must be all the way up. Even the longboards will respond well to foot steering if the centerboard is all the way up.