3瓦的LED手电

哈哈，基本没戏
如果是真的3w led，肯定装不进gemini去，更别提塞两个
即使真的塞进去了，也没法用，3颗aa电池，估计也就能撑1小时不到
而且，在电池耗尽前，灯罩会先化掉
如同把个v8的引擎硬塞到夏利里面，它也吃不消啊

不过，上面的事不会发生
因为，这个价格买不到真的3w led

要打败Petzl ？抑或 Princeton ？？？
唉。。。
看看真正的3w led 头灯先：
Princeton Tec APEX

如果增大功率，直接买两个就行了。

耗电和功率成正比。头灯的方向是提高发光效率，而不是功率。因此，采用高发光率的LED是个厂家的诀窍，从而达到轻量化和低功耗。

装一次电池使用100小时是方向。距离达50米足够使用了。

不知道3W灯头能否承受3.6V123A规格充电电池的电压。

我的3W手电每次都要买123A电池两个，亮度是没的说就是烧不起。换次电池就是40块。

好的LED头灯是恒流驱动的，如果换成3W的，应该达不到3W。比如5V，150mA的，输出功率是0.75W，换成3W的后驱动电流还是150mA，电压也是5V，输出还是0.75W。
LED发光效率很高，发热肯定不象白灯那样，但如果功率提高几倍，恐怕还是有问题。
同样功率的灯，普通灯的照射距离要远好于LED的。

没戏，散热问题没法解决，LED要烧坏的。

看看我DIY的散热器吧：
http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/158643,2514503,1,0.html

嘿嘿，这个改装比你想的难多了，一个3W满功率运行大约需要900mA的电流，你上2个3W，就是1800mA，3个碱性AA电池电压4.5V，你要加电阻，当然你能自制电路就更好了，1800mA的电流撑不了一个小时。如果以上你全做到了，但还有一点你不要忘了，3WLED是不聚光的，要加透镜或反光碗，BD Genimi的两个LED的位置不是在反光碗的正中间，所以根本不能聚光。照远不行，使用时间短，就这两个缺点就可以说改装出来也是没用的。Princeton Tec 与 Pezel 是世界大厂，不会那么轻易的被打败的

没有调查就没有发言权，呵呵，先来看看3w led 的几个参数吧：

Beam Pattern  Lambertian
size   12.7mm (½" in diameter and 6.3mm (¼" high
Lumens (lm)  65 lumens @ 700mA or 80 lumens @ 1000mA
Color Temperature (K)  5500
Viewing Angle  140
Forward Voltage (Vf)  3.70V @ 700mA or 3.90V @ 1000mA
DC Forward Current (mA)  1000
Peak Pulsed Current (mA)  1000
Average Forward Current (mA)  1000
LED Junction Temperature (C)  135
price(100+)  $13.59  

祝愿楼主能改装成功！

楼上的是说我没有调查过？呵呵，可以算一下嘛，原装真品LS 带散热片（Star）3WLED背面 bin code 第一行第4个字母代表这个LED采用的电压
第四位：K，表示电压（Forward Voltage）：
Vf
E.............2.31V - 2.55V
F.............2.55V - 2.79V
G............2.79V - 3.03V
H............3.03V - 3.27V
J.............3.27V - 3.51V
K............3.51V - 3.75V
L.............3.75V - 3.99V
M............3.99V - 4.23V
N............4.23V - 4.47V
R.............5.43V - 5.91V
S.............5.91V - 6.39V
T.............6.39V - 6.87V
U.............6.87V - 7.35V
V.............7.35V - 7.83V
W............7.83V - 8.31V
一般3W比较常见的J、K、L、M
3WLED的满功率当然就是3W了，P＝U×I，I＝P/U，这个就不用我说了吧，应该看的懂吧。
得出的结果约等于709～917mA，这个结果是理论值，仅供参考

http://www.shoudian.com/dispbbs.asp?BoardID=10&replyID=14180&id=14180&skin=0这个帖子供楼主参考一下吧，个人觉得还是很不错的

非也非也，是针对前面楼主说的体积温度亮度都不是问题而言的。

受教啦，谢谢大家
其实说要打败两个P家是说说而已，大家不要太认真，毕竟有了性能还有另外一个东西没法比：抗恶劣环境
反正就是玩玩开心嘛，改装还是有不少乐趣的，可能最后什么也没得到

LED的厂商有很多，我问过了，一般3W的LED也就700mA左右
而且LED的寿命也参差不齐，光从参数无从得到它能活几年（小时？）

反正爱玩的人还是不少

6W?要一二安培吧!你准备一个畜电池吧!

关于princeton tec apex

apex太新，国内估计还没有，老外的使用经验也还不多，找了个全点的，给了个4.9的高分（满分5）长了点，懒得翻了，给感兴趣的朋友参考吧。

－－－以下测试报告引自www.backpackinglight.com

“This initial evaluation was performed indoors in a darkened basement and then after nightfall in the backyard, partially surrounded by trees.

This is perhaps the best headlamp i own or have ever used.

What's good:

0. price: lists for a full retail price of $80. even though only just introduced, (was shipped on the first date available), was purchased for only $65 from BrightGuy.com.

1. good balance. batts behind head - perhaps a must in a 4AA headlamp. small front unit - a bit larger than the PT Corona, but not a big "head". speaking of the "head", it has 90 deg. of vertical adjustment from straight ahead to straight down. it has a non-racheted , friction hinge, and so is "infinitely" adjustable. will the nylon insert of the lock-nut securing the hinge screw loosen over time? if so, the phillips head of the hinge screw should be easy to tighten. very little bounce without the removable top "bucket" strap and no movement whatsoever of the head about the hinge point.

2. excellent batt. life is indicated by the mfr and is expected due to the addition of a fourth battery - as cp. to other 3 batt. systems. even taking a 1/2 to 3/4 reduction of the mfr's claims, this leaves a relatively long batt life. more testing is needed to see if these claims hold true.

3. light output - must be seen to be believed! in all modes, the Apex produces a very white light output with little or no "yellow" or perceptible "blue" from light reflected from surfaces ~40' away. this user prefers pure white light; others will undoubtedly prefer some "yellow", making it appear more "incandescent-ish".

the Apex has 5 operating modes: 3W LED-hi, 3W LED-lo, 5mmx4 LED-hi, 5mmx4 LED-lo, 5mmx4-hiFlash.

the 5mm-Hi is surprisingly bright easily illuminating out to 40' - much brighter than a TikkaPlus. on 5mm-hi, it is the brightest 4LED headlamp, i've ever seen, actually rivaling and surpassing any 6 or 7 5mm LED array headlamps i've used. in fact, on 5mm-HI mode, it appears to be nearly as bright out to 40'as some single 1W LEDs.

5mm-LO mode is noticeably dimmer than 5mm-HI mode, but still unusually bright. for example, 5mm-LO mode on the Apex was brighter at ~40' than other 5mmx4 white LEDs headlamps on their highest output compared. i will probably be unable to hike on unfamiliar trails in 5mm-LO mode (i like to see lo-contrast, dull, faded blazes on trees at least 30' ahead so as not to miss a bend in the trail), but younger hikers with average or better than average low light vision, in some cases, may find it possible. even on 5mm-LO mode, however, it is too bright to be used for reading, IMHO.

the 3W LED on LO is very bright (field testing will need to be performed to determine actual throw - at 40' in the basement, objects on the walls were illuminated very well. on 3W LED-Lo the Apex's beam was noticeably brighter than single 1W LED headlamps on their highest output mode and had a larger "spot", providing a much better overall view.

the 3W LED on HI very brightly illuminated small objects 40' away.

outside in the backyard, 5mm-HI illuminated trees ~50' away, though very dimly - very impressive for only 4 5mm LEDs. there is a real difference using it indoors where there are more surfaces to reflect light back to the eye, and outdoors where most light is not reflected back at perceptible levels since there are fewer objects/trees to do so, i.e. more open space.

3W LED-LO illuminated trees moderately bright, ~50'-75' away - about the same, or even a bit brighter than other 1W LuxeonStar-type LEDs - certainly no less bright than other 1W LEDs.

3W LED-HI brightly illuminated those same trees and could distinctly, but not brightly, make out the trees at the very back of my yard at the start of the woods, 150'-200' away.

beam width from the 3W LED was actually excellent at 50'-150, and even at 30'. won't need to be "chicken walking" to pick out blazes (i.e., bobbing and turning the head to see each individual tree trunk in order to locate blazes.

both the 5mm and even the 3W LED have an impressive field of illumination. 3W has a somewhat very nice large spot, nowhere near as tight as some other 1W and 3W headlamps, making it much more useful. for my uses, i.e., nighttime navigation and not SAR, giving up a bit of "throw" for a greater diameter "spot" is to be preferred.

4. removable "over-the-head"/bucket strap. doesn't seem to be really needed due to the relatively light wt. of the "head". however, the "around-the-head" strap can be looser if the the "over-the-head" strap is used. straps are very easy to adjust while wearing using just one hand. despite this, straps don't seem to slip and hold their tension/position well. on mine, the "around-the-head" strap was probably not installed properly. the strap went in front of the front attachment bracket/plate, causing the plastic plate to be in direct contact with the forehead. it was a very simple matter to detach the strap from the bracket and route it to the back of the bracket. the strap is very comfortable in this postion, providing cushioning, and will absorb the inevitable sweat that will be produced during extended wear, especially on warmer summer nights.

5. nice camo color headband with an OD head it's also available in black & orange.

6. no time limit on 3W LED-hi mode as cp. to a 20sec "boost" limitation on the Petzl MyoXP. hopefully, since there is no uniformly "forced" limitation/duration on continuous use of the 3W LED-HI mode, to prevent overheating, should the Al heatsink prove insufficient, the Apex possesses some type of thermal regulation consisting of a current "foldback" scheme should the 3W LED temp. get too high. however, this assumption is naive, since the Al heatsink alone might have been designed to handle conditions that would cause the "user" to fail before the LED fails?

7. 3W LED collimated optics beam pattern is a nice spot. not real large when cp. to some focusable Xenon's, but larger than some other 1W and 3W single LEDs. really very nice. compared to the Petzl MyoXP on BOOST mode, the Apex's 3W-Hi beam does not seem to have as wide field of illumination as the XP on BOOST, but it does appear to have more "throw" than the MyoXP. Also, the MyoXP has a very noticeable "yellow" color to its beam, whereas the Apex is very white.

8. a Petzl Duo-series type of removable battery "carrier" makes changing batteries easy.

9. nice o-ring seal on batt. compartment. mine was not seated properly, as shipped, and came out with the battery carrier. very easy to replace it in the "channel" on the main portion of the battery compartment. repeated removals and insertions of the battery carrier did not cause the o-ring to become unseated.

10. batteries (4AA) are included. but, that's becoming pretty much standard with many mfr's.

11. battery compartment top and attached battery carrier retained/released via a 1/4 turn knob on the bottom of the battery pack housing (similar to the PT Switchback, but a smaller knob). the "around-the-head" strap adjustment buckle is shaped to function as a tool to make turning the 1/4 turn fastener easy. on mine, it required quite a bit of exertion to fasten/unfasten the 1/4 turn fastener without using the buckle, but it's doable. very easy to turn when using the buckle.

12. softer rubber overmolding/cushioning on the battery compartment makes it fairly comfortable - even for short durations laying down & reading. however, for longer durations, it may become uncomfortable. solution was to cut a small piece of sleeping pad foam. it's easily secured under the "around-the-head" strap and greatly increases comfort. foam pad stays in place and doesn't slip. soft overmolding is also on the "outboard" side of the batt compartment which should prevent some breakage/cracking if dropped or from the wt. of the head if used laying down.

13. two button control makes controlling the Apex very easy. reduces the need to cycle through all lighting modes to get to the desired mode.

here's how it works: under the lamp head are two buttons - one on the right which controls the 5mm LEDs, and one on the left which controls the 3W LED. a quick press and release of either button switches the LED(s) controlled by that switch on in HI mode. another quick press and release of the appropriate button cycles illuminated LED(s) to the LO output mode. for the 5mm LEDs, another press of the right button cycles the 5mm LEDs to 5mm-hiFlash mode. additional presses cycle back to HI output mode.

pressing and holding either button for ~1second will turn off whatever LED(s) are currently illuminated. there is no need to turn OFF the illuminated LED(s) in order to turn ON the other LED(s). merely, pressing and releasing the other LED(s) ON/OFF button, switches OFF the LED(s) which are on, and illuminates the LED(s) which were off.

14. tiny flashing "battery health" indicator LED - located on the front of the "head" at the 6 o'clock position beneath the 3W LED.

15. very slightly recessed buttons with 4 "braille"-like nibs on the right side button (controls the four 5mm LEDs) with a nice tactile feedback. [will need to test with gloves on.]

What's not:
1. just under 10oz with alkaline batts, so on the heavy side as compared to a Petzl Myo XP (at this point in time, perhaps its closest popular competitor for backpacking). other than the overmolding, and a generously, but not overly, wide headband, not sure how to reduce wt. of course, using 4 Li AA batts would reduce wt by ~1.2oz vs. 4 AA alk. batts.

2. on 3W LED-hi, very short regulated mfr claimed output time before unregulated output mode occurs. however, according to the manual that came with the Apex, use of Li batts can greatly increase (up to 4x) regulated times before the Apex switches to unregulated o.p.

Suggestions for improvement:
1. the addition of 1 or 2 5mm red LEDs might be appreciated by some users. since, in its present configuration, forget about preserving any "dark adaptation" acquired before turning on the headlamp.

2. could wish for more regulated output time, but this may be beyond the ability of current technologies if only 4AA batts are used to power a headlamp.

3. "Cavers" would appreciate the ability to add a remote 4C-cell battery pack to extend "burn time".

4. though, perhaps, this next suggestion would only be desirable to only a subset of the users (this reviewer being one of them), this subset would prefer that LO modes were activated first and then HI modes, instead of the way it is now - HI modes are activated on the first button press and then an additional button press is required to activate the two LO modes. this headlamp puts out so much light, that, to me, at least, even 5mm-LO mode is sufficient for many tasks that the philosophy of "let's get as much light out there as quickly as possible in an emergency situation" is perhaps unecessary. it's not like you have only one button and have to cycle through a bunch of lo-output modes in order to get some really bright output, especially with two buttons (the left one just for turning on the 3W LED - even on LO this LED is as bright or brighter than 1W LEDs). this reviewer, even though an admitted "light hawg" (sic), would be fine with LO modes being the initial "turn-on" modes.”

－－在此对测试者的认真态度表示敬佩，也给了我们一个器材测试的启示。

要DIY也别拿GEMINI啊。
地摊上买个15元的白炽灯头灯先改起来。

学习中