攀爬是攀岩的最佳训练方式吗？

攀爬是攀岩的最佳训练方式吗？

这篇 Eric J. Horst写的文章是好友白狼发现的，我粗略翻译的。
Is Climbing The Best Training For Climbing?

It's an old adage that "climbing is the best training for climbing," and many climbers lean on this line as an excuse for not engaging in any training activities outside of climbing itself. Let's examine this precept and determine, once and for all, if it is valid.

When I am asked the question "Is climbing the best training for climbing", my canned answer is--"it depends." This is because the best type of training for a given climber depends on his or her current strengths and weaknesses as well as current absolute climbing ability. For instance, in terms of improving climbing technique and mental skills, no amount of strength training will produce direct improvements in these areas. However, for developing sport-specific strength (i.e. conditioning to improve grip strength, lock-off ability, and endurance of upper body strength), simply "climbing for training" will produce limited results and only slow (or no) improvement from year to year. Sound familiar?

One reason that climbing is not the best method of strength training is because the ultimate goals of "training" versus "climbing" are very different. For instance, the goal in climbing is to avoid muscular failure at all costs and, hopefully, reach the top of a boulder problem or climb before the arm and forearm muscles pump out. Conversely, when training for climbing it is often best to exercise at the highest possible intensity and produce muscular failure in a few minutes, if not a few seconds. Summarizing--in climbing, you strive to avoid failure; in training, you tend to pursue failure.

Another example that underscores the difference between climbing and training for climbing is the way in which you grip the rock. In climbing, the rock dictates a random use of many different grip positions and, at times, you may even deliberately vary the way you grip the rock. As a result, it's unlikely that any single grip position will ever get worked maximally and, therefore, the individual grip positions (e.g. crimp, open hand, pinch, etc.) are slow to increase strength. This should help you understand why a full season of climbing may indeed improve your anaerobic endurance (i.e. endurance of strength), but do little to increase you absolute maximum grip strength. Therefore, varying grip positions is a great strategy for maximizing endurance when climbing for performance, but it stinks for training maximum grip strength. Effective finger strength training demands you target a specific grip position and work it until failure (See HIT Workouts ).

As a final note, it may be best for some climbers to engage in physical conditioning that is not sport-specific in nature. For example, an overweight individual would be better off spending their non-climbing training time performing aerobic exercise (and, of course, improve their dietary surveillance) rather than sport-specific climbing exercises. Likewise, some "way out-of-shape" individual (i.e. unable to do even a few pull-ups, push-ups, abdominal crunches, etc.) would be better off engaging in a period of standard circuit training to improve general conditioning.

In the final analysis, if you are serious about climbing performance you must not be satisfied simply "climbing for training", nor can you mindless adhere to old adages or train in the flawed ways as most other climbers do. Becoming the best (and strongest) climber possible demands that you become a knowledgeable self-coach and thoughtful practitioner of "training for climbing."

Copyright 2005 Eric J. Horst. All rights reserved.

下面是我的翻译，欢迎指正。

攀爬就是最佳的攀岩训练方法吗？

有句流行的说法“攀爬就是最好的攀岩训练”许多攀岩者依着这个籍口不去做任何攀岩之外的训练活动。让我们检查鉴定一下是否是肯定的，如果这是有效的话。

当我被问道“攀爬是最好的攀岩训练吗？”我都会这样回答“看情况”。这是因为对特定的攀岩者最好的训练类型是依据他或她目前的优势与短处以及目前的绝对攀爬能力。举个例子，谈到关于改进攀岩技巧与心理技巧，力量训练不会在这些领域产生直接的改进。然而，对发展特定运动力量（例如训练提高抓握力量，锁定力和上身耐力）简单地“攀爬作为训练”是只能产生很有限的作用，或一年年地缓慢进展。这些话，是不是似曾听说？

说攀爬不是最佳的力量训练方法，原因之一是因为“训练”对比“攀岩”的最终目标是非常不一样的。举例说吧，攀爬的目的是千方设法避免肌肉力竭，在手臂和前臂肌肉力竭时有希望地到达一个抱石问题或攀岩顶点。相反地，为攀岩的训练通常是在几秒或几分钟内做最高的可能达到的强度产生肌肉力竭会是最好的练习。总结来说，在攀岩，你是努力避免失败；而在训练，你是趋向产生失败。

另外一个能揭示攀岩和训练有所区别的例子在于你抓握岩石的方式。在攀岩中，岩石意味着在一些不同的抓握姿势中的一个随机的使用，有时候，你可能甚至故意变化你抓握岩石的方式。结果是，任何单一的抓握姿势不大可能达到最大效力，因此，某个抓握姿势（例如，crimp，open hand，pinch等）只是缓慢增加力量。这会帮助你理解为什么一个全年攀岩者可能确实需要增加你的无氧耐力（例如力量的持久力），但较少去增加你的绝对最大抓握力量。因此，改变不同的抓握姿势达到最大化耐力在为了成绩攀岩的时候是一个很好的策略，但对于训练最大的抓握力会是一个差的主意。有效率的手指力量训练需要你确定一个明确的抓握姿势位为目标，去做直到力竭。（见HIT Workouts ）

最后一点，对一些攀岩者来说，进行不是运动专项的自然的体能训练可能是最好的。例如，一个体重超重的人花在非攀岩训练上的有氧运动（当然，也要改善他们的饮食控制）会比运动专项的攀岩练习要好。同样的，一些“没有体型”的个人（例如，甚至不能做几个引体，俯卧撑，仰卧起坐等）进行一段时期的为改善整体身体状况的标准训练循环会好起来的。

最后分析，如果你很在在意攀岩的表现成绩，你千万不要满足简单的“攀岩就是训练”，你也不能不加思考地追随老的信条或和其他大多数攀岩者一样在一种有缺陷的方式下进行训练。要成为一个最佳（和最强的）的攀岩者可能要求你要成为一个有知识的自我教练和充分思考的“攀岩训练”的从业者。

2005 Eric J. Horst.版权作有