坦桑尼亚-赛伦盖地-东张西望

黑驴DUKE · 2007-12-19 09:45

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衣：
春节是东非最热的季节，坦桑又是东非中最热的国家。背心短裤足矣，特别是Lake Natron 和 Dares Salam, 把Duke热得连徒步罗布泊的远大理想都放弃了。桑给巴尔司机说本地温度从没低过25度。25度的时候他们都觉得特冷，大街上的人都穿着厚外套。恩格鲁比较凉，早晚需要加一件抓绒衫。据说肯尼亚和乌干达是四季如春的，都是20度左右。
食：
Safari 基本是包吃的。住Campsite的Safari随车跟着厨师，厨师带着锅碗瓢盆和肉啊菜啊啥的，如果时间长，食品有变质的危险。Tented Camp有厨房，吃的是西式定餐。Lodge吃自助，虽然没国内那么可口，填饱肚子绝对没问题。如果象我们一样早出晚归，Lodge还可以提供外带早午餐。
在Safari之外的地方，除了奔巴，都可以轻易找到中餐馆，价格合理，三个菜（一鱼一肉一素）20$以内搞定。在奔巴如果实在顶不住，建议到中国医疗队打牙祭。免费，饭后还有自产大木瓜赠送。
全程我们都买当地出产的大瓶装水喝，700-1000TSH一支。没有出现异常现象。冰冻瓶装可乐到处都有，300TSH-4$的都试过。
住：
非洲的住宿相当贵。特别是Safari里的。Campsite住在那种普通的小帐篷里，有些旁边有公共浴室，幸运的话有水。Tented Camp是那种大帆布帐篷，前面是睡觉的，后面是浴室和马桶，中间有间隔。Lodge是一些别致的小酒店，大多只有2-3层，清洁舒适，有餐厅和酒吧。
行：
签证：据说东非共同体的三国成员-肯尼亚，坦桑尼亚和乌干达对中国公民都是可以落地签证的，尽管这点遭到了三国驻华使馆的一致否认。这里面还有一个问题，如果没有外国签证，中国边检不会允许你出关。三国的使馆都设在北京，其中只有肯尼亚在香港设有领事馆，按照该领事馆人员介绍，他们可以向大陆公民签发签证，但是不保证持该签证的大陆公民可以顺利进入肯境，因为大陆居民肯尼亚签证的法定签发地应该是北京。还未曾听说过此类签证在肯遭拒的先例。香港的肯尼亚签证可以由他人代办。通过正常的途径申请签证，三国中坦桑是最容易的。除了护照，相片，身份证复印件和Money外，只要求一份当地旅行社的证明。该证明可以是传真，也可以是Email，签证也可以由他人代办。 而肯尼亚就麻烦一些，当地旅行社的邀请函必须是原件。至于乌干达就比较牛了，一定要本人亲自到北京签证，还需要银行证明。
东非三国只要持有其中一国签证，到另外两个国家都只需要过境签，一次50美金。三国驻华使馆里也属坦桑的工作人员态度最好。经验如下：华南的就到香港签肯尼亚，华北的就到北京签坦桑。Duke在北京，我们签的是坦桑，把地接社给我们做的行程印了两份和其他材料一并递进去，四个工作日后顺利拿到签证。
机票：国内飞东非的航班，最快的当属肯航广州-内罗毕的，13小时。我们这次坐的是埃航，广州-阿鲁沙 达累斯萨拉姆-广州 含税￥7500；经停曼谷，还要在亚的斯亚贝巴转机，飞行时间接近20小时，候机时间4小时，一整天就赔在里面了。东非有几家小航空公司，Excel, Costal, Zanair, 用的是12人的小飞机，航班很密，只在坦境内就有阿鲁沙，达累斯萨拉姆，塞伦盖蒂，恩格鲁，桑给巴尔，奔巴。。。。航线。 但是票价较普通飞机高一些。从阿鲁沙到桑给巴尔，一张票200$.
据说在肯尼亚Safari有面包车，我们在坦桑见到的是清一色的吉普。车上确实标着LAND CRUISER,可我这么大年纪了也没见过这种配置的LAND CRUISER。Duke说象改装版的2020。不知道是不是小日本专门为非洲人民设计的。统计如下，7天的Safari中，我们的座驾抢救无效宣布死亡一次（换车），发出异响但坚持前进若干次，爆胎3次，拖底无数次，陷进坑里自行爬出一次，爬不出借助他车拉出一次。

当地的公交叫DARLA DARLA，很有趣，只是Duke处处安全为首，所以只坐了两回。出租不便宜，不打表只砍价，3/4公里要4-5$.
杂七杂八：
货币：坦桑的货币叫TISHILING，黑市1$等于1300TSH. 美元流通。不过还是建议换一些TSH，不然买个可乐啥的找钱人家可按1：1000算。
防晒：这非洲的骄阳可不可小觑，好在保护措施到位。大帽子+墨镜，实在受不了的时候用头巾把脸包上，整一躲狗仔队的大明星！30度的防晒用了两大瓶，晒后修护用了一支，回来之后跟同胞们比了比，黑是黑点，起码没脱皮！
蚊子：听说我要去东非，美国老板一本正经的问：你知道那里的蚊子有多大么？这么大！满天都是！他的两掌之间足可以放得下一只小猪。实践证明-蚊子是有的。Duke喷满防蚊液的腿上散布着密密麻麻的红点就是铁证。按他自己的话说-这非洲的虫子难道还想把俺咬成花豹不成。自己刚到的时候也小心翼翼，慢慢发现，非洲的蚊子对我一点兴趣没有。于是大义凛然地穿着背心短裤，啥也不涂，美其名曰为Duke吸引敌人火力，还不时取笑他，Duke一来，全非洲的蚊子笑了。当然，蚊子的眼睛也是雪亮的，肉汤当然比菜汁味道香，营养好。
疫苗：非洲是黄热病强制区。现在出境已经不需要检查黄皮书了，入境也不检查。但是强烈建议还是打了保险。在各地国际旅行卫生保健中心注射，70元/针，提前10天以产生抗体。有的地方打完针还发疟疾药。广州没有，我们也没带。
其他：我们从国内背去了6盒圆珠笔和一大包大白兔。
东非作为曾经的英国殖民地，成为欧洲人的旅游热点超过一个世纪，服务人员的英语水平普遍很高，服务意识也非常到位，注意带一些零钞给小费。美金流通，我们全程没有专门去兑换当地货币，如果觉得USD1给小费太大方的话，也可以换一些。1美金＝1000 TSH 左右。
因为坦桑大陆主要是看动物的，野生动物园是不允许步行进入的。所以只能找旅行社。注意要找一些规模稍大的，即使国家公园内，猛兽也不是随处可见的。大公司的车上配有CALL 台，司机们会互相通风报信，及时的赶到猛兽出没点。

黑驴DUKE · 2007-12-19 09:46

行程
Day 1
17/2/07
Arrival at KIA-Airport at 12.40 (ET805) Transfer to Arusha for lunch, then
proceed to Lake Manyara National Park for Sunset game drive.
Dinner and overnight at Lake Manyara Tented Camp– (Full Board)
Day 2
18/2/07
Early morning game drive in Manyara National Park. Birdlife in the park is
very broad. The home of tree-climbing lion, the park is also home to giraffes,
hippo, zebra, and buffalo.
After lunch proceed to Ngorongoro. Ngorongoro Conservation Area's central feature is the Ngorongoro Crater, one of the largest intact caldera in the world and one of the most spectacular sights
in Africa. The Olduvai Gorge in the neighborhood is the site where some of
Africa's oldest hominid fossils were found. The Crater has the most predator
population in Africa. Elephant, lion, zebra, wildebeest and a host of other
resident animals are to be found here .Overnight at Ngorongoro Wildlife
Lodge – (Full Board)

Day 3
19/2/07
Half day game drive in Ngorongoro National Park. Packed lunches to then drive to Simba Campsite on the craterrim and enjoy the view into the craterrim and then proceed to Serengati National Park. There are an incredible number of animals in this vast game park. Wildebeest is most popular followed by zebras. Elephant is notably scarce. Cheetahs and the rest of the big cats are regularly sighted in the plains. The few remaining endangered black rhino are restricted at the Moru Kopjes area. The park is also famous for the
wildebeest migration, often described as the most impressive spectacle in the world.
Overnight Serengati Wildlife Lodge – (Full Board)

Day 4
Full day game drive at Serengati National Park
Overnight Lobo Wildlife Lodge – (Full Board)

Day 5
21/2/07
Morning game drive in Serengati National Park the Lunch on the way while driving
towards Lake Natron. An adventurous drive on dirt roads. Overnight at Lake
Natron Camp – (Full Board)
Lake Natron Tented Camp is a simple tented camp taken over by the Dutch
group of Moivaro bush camps. As of 2006 it has been undergoing renovations
to keep it in line with the same standard as the other camps. Location is north
of Oldonyo Lengai, commonly known as the Mountain of Gods. The camp is
tucked away at the base of the towering escarpment wall that leads of into the
Gol Mountains. This whole area is a walkers play ground, there are waterfalls
to visit and the Lake Natron itself with its breeding Lesser East African
Flamingo.
Day 6 Early breakfast and departure for the nature walk to the waterfalls. Afternoon
visit Lake Natron. Overnight Lake Natron Camp – (Full Board)
22/2/07
Day 7
23/2/07
Early morning departure after breakfast - drive towards Arusha where you will
check into Le Jacaranda Hotel.
Overnight Le Jacaranda – (Bed & Breakfast)
A good value budget hotel, located in a leafy suburb 1 km from the center of
town. The hotel offers 23 rooms of different standards; the theme of the lodge is
Tinga Tinga art which is painted on walls through out the lodge. It has a
miniature crazy golf course and a pleasant garden setting to relax and get
away from the busy Arusha life. Good value quality food is prepared daily by
the Dutch owner, a perfect base if wanting to spend a few days in Arusha after
a safari or if shopping around.
Day 8
24/2/07
you’ll be collected and transferred to the airport to Zanzibar. collected from the airport and taken to Mtoni Marine.
Overnight Mtoni Marine – (Bed & Breakfast)
The Club rooms at Mtoni Marine are cozy and authentically furnished, these
traditionally palm thatched rooms are set within a tropical garden shadowed
by an old mango tree. Experience the fusion of continental cuisine and the
spices of Zanzibar in the open-air beach restaurant of for more casual dining,
try the beach bar and bistro – and the Zansushibar – the only Sushi on
Zanzibar, right on the beach!
Day 9
25/2/07
Morning Spice Tour and local Spice Lunch.
Afternoon Prison Island tour.
Overnight Mtoni Marine – (Bed & Breakfast)
Day 10
26/2/07
Early morning you’ll be collected from Mtoni Marine and drive to Kizimkazi
for a visit to the dolphins.
After returning to Stone Town – afternoon City Tour
Overnight Mtoni Marine – (Bed & Breakfast)
Day 11
27/2/07
Free day without planned activities.
Overnight Mtoni Marine – (Bed & Breakfast)
Day 12
28/2/07
Transfer to the airport for your flight to Pemba Island (Coastal Air 14.30 –
15.05 to be confirmed) Transfer to The Old Mission Lodge for afternoon
relaxation. Overnight at The Old Mission Lodge – (Bed & Breakfast)
The Old Mission Lodge is a restored Quaker Mission house on the edge of
town. In keeping with the history of the building, it’s a simple, but comfortable
guesthouse. The food is traditional and varied reflecting an interesting mix of
western and local cuisine. The lodge is set in a former banana plantation, and
the grounds have many quiet areas where you can sit and admire the view of
Chake Creek and the green valley below. The upstairs balcony provides a bird's
eye view, and catches the morning breeze. The rooms are comfortable and
clean, and reflect the remote and exotic location.
Day 13
1/3/07
A day of exploring the Island on your own. The Old Mission Lodge will have
two local mountain bikes waiting for you to use around the Island
Overnight at The Old Mission Lodge – (Bed & Breakfast)
Day 14
2/3/07
Transfer to the airport for the flight to Dar es Salaam (Coastal Air 16.40 – 17.35)
Transfer to Blue Pearl Hotel in Dar es Salaam.
Overnight Heritage Motel – (Bed & Breakfast)
Day 15
3/3/07
Transfer to DIA International Airport to connect with your flight
ET804 DAR-ADD Departure at 1640