塔吉克斯坦攻略

基本上有两个选择进入塔国：
1。 经由塔县卡拉苏口岸进入塔国,口岸情况如下：
卡拉苏口岸地处西昆仑山和萨雷阔勒岭之间山前阶地平缓区，位于新建维吾尔自治区塔什库尔干塔吉克自治县西北部，海拔4368.6米，该地址距中塔边界的阔勒买山口13.875公里。卡拉苏距喀什市219公里，距塔什库尔干县城62公里，距塔方边境城市穆尔加布89.7公里，距塔吉克斯坦首都杜尚别约850公里。我方卡拉苏监控孔道已于1997年底完成砂石路面的铺设和两座桥梁工程，接塔方柏油公路，路基稳定，路况较好。 卡拉苏口岸于2004年5月25日成立；2005年出入境旅客2400人；2005年出入境车辆1000辆；卡拉苏口岸及红其拉甫口岸隶属于塔什库尔干自治县（简称塔县）；卡拉苏口岸海拔4600米，根据中塔两国协议，卡拉苏—阔勒买口岸于2004年5月正式对外开放。该口岸位于新疆塔什库尔干县境内，慕士塔格峰脚下，海拔3880米，属于季节性口岸，每年5月—10月开关，是中国目前通往塔塔吉克斯坦和阿富汗最近的陆路口岸。
目前无大巴，只能蹭来往中国货车进入塔国MURGHAB。

2.搭乘南航乌鲁木齐至杜尚别的航班，每周六去，周日回，单程票价约为RMB2200。好处是可以获得塔国机场的落地签证。详细如下：
FOR INFORMATION OF THE FOREIGH NATIONALS ARRIVING IN THE REPUBLIC OF TAJIKISTAN!
To simplify the Tajikistan visas legalization and issue procedure for nationals of a number of foreign countries, the Regulation of the Government of the Republic of Tajikistan "About Measures of the Simplified Procedure for Legalization and Issue of the Tajikistan Visas to Nationals of a Number of Foreign Countries" was entered into force from April 2006. In accordance with the above document, nationals of 67 states may get the visas directly upon arrival in the Tajikistan airports or in the diplomatic representative offices within three (3) working days. This list includes Norway, USA, Japan, South Korea, China, Israel, Iran, Turkey, Switzerland, number of countries of the East Europe and the Middle East and also all the European Union.

Fast Facts about Tajikistan
货币 Tajik somani (TJS); US$1=3.4TJS, €1=4.3TJS
人口 7.32 million (2006 estimate)
Famous for Civil war, Pamir Highway, mountains, hospitality, drug trafficking
首都 Dushanbe
Country Code 992
Phrases in Tajik khob. (OK.); mebakhshed. (sorry.); khair. (goodbye.)
March, April, September and October are probably the best times to visit. The best time of year for trekking is September. The Pamir region is best visited in July to late September, though the Pamir Hwy technically remains open year-round. During early summer (June and July), meltwater can make river crossings dangerous in mountainous areas.

游玩景点：
1.Bartang Valley

The stark and elemental Bartang Valley is one of the wildest and most beautiful in the western Pamirs and offers a fine opportunity for an adventurous multiday 4WD adventure. At times the fragile road is only perilously inches between the raging river below and sheer cliffs above. Only the occasional fertile alluvial plain brings a flash of green to the barren rock walls.
The road into the Bartang branches off the main road to Dushanbe, just before the village of Rushan, 61km from Khorog. After the village of Yemts, famous for its musicians, look for the footbridge that marks the start of the wonderful hike up the Geisev Valley . A further 9km up the main valley is the village of Khidjef, which offers more hiking routes.The lovely village of Basid, 50km further, boasts two shrines (tourists can’t visit the upper one) and scenic forests 5km up a side valley. It’s a good place to overnight.

About 9km from Basid, it’s worth taking the very rough side road 9km up to Bardara, at the junction of two gorgeous valleys. The hospitable village has two ancient shrines and foot trails lead up to summer pastures and over high passes to Bachor. Ask to see the village khalodelnik (fridge).

The road to Savnob switches back high up the valley side and then down into a protected bowl. The ruined fort (used as a village toilet) and the hillside caves here served as protection against raids by Afghans, Kyrgyz or the neighbouring valley of Yazgulom. The village of Roshorv, high above the valley, is another possible detour. From Savnob the road continues to the start of trekking routes near Ghudara.Up a side valley are the villages of Nisar and Barchadiev, which is the trailhead for treks up to Sarez . You’ll need a permit to hike beyond Barchadiev.

交通：
Minibuses run between Savnob and Khorog but only every few days (35TJS), so the only practical way to visit the Bartang Valley is by hired car. A trip from Khorog to Savnob and back, via Bardara, eats up about 420km. Make sure your driver has a spare jerry can of fuel, as there is little, if any petrol available en route. High river flows often wash away sections of the road in early summer.

Past Savnob, a road of sorts continues on to Kök Jar and Murgab but the road is in very bad condition and only worth contemplating at the end of summer and with a reliable 4WD. Check beforehand whether the road is open. As one local told us, ‘The road to Kök Jar is fine but at the end of the trip both the car and driver will be destroyed.’

2. 西部的BADAKHSHAN自治区首府：Khorog

A small mountain-valley town, Khorog is the capital of the autonomous Gorno-Badakhshan (GBAO) region. It is strung out on either side of the dashing Gunt River and penned in by dry, vertical peaks. A few kilometres downstream, the Gunt merges with the Pyanj, marking the border with Afghanistan.

Until the late 19th century, present-day Khorog was a tiny settlement that loosely belonged to the domain of local chieftains, the Afghan Shah or the Emir of Bukhara. Russia installed a small garrison here following the Anglo–Russian–Afghan Border Treaty of 1896, which delineated the current northern border of Afghanistan on the Pyanj River. Khorog was made the administrative centre of GBAO in 1925.

Khorog suffered badly in the wake of independence (at the depths of the economic crisis money disappeared altogether, replaced by barter) but things have picked up in recent years. In 2003 the Aga Khan pledged US$200 million to establish one of the three campuses of the University of Central Asia in Khorog’s eastern suburbs. Khorog has one of the brightest and best educated populations of any town in Central Asia.The town park, dug up to grow crops during the famine of the 1990s, is being renovated by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture.Note that the town largely closes down on Sunday, when open restaurants and transport can be hard to find.

可以从杜尚别搭乘飞机到达KHOROG，但是航班不确定，票价大概USD60.从杜尚别飞来时候，最好选择右舷窗观看阿富汗的帕米尔高原景色。机场距市区3公里。到这里不是纯粹看大学，而是前往赫赫有名的瓦罕走廊。

3. The Wakhan Valley （兴都库什山脉的一部分）

The Tajik half of the superbly remote Wakhan Valley, shared with Afghanistan, is a fantastic side trip from Khorog, either en route to Murgab or as a loop returning via the Gunt or Shokh Dara Valleys. The route’s many side valleys reveal stunning views of the 7000m peaks of the Hindu Kush (Killer of Hindus), marking the border with Pakistan. Marco Polo travelled through the valley in AD 1274.
You will need to have Ishkashim marked on your GBAO permit to travel this road. There are military checkpoints at Khargush and near Namadguti.

Some 46km south of Khorog, and 7km from the junction at Anderob, the hot springs of Garam Chashma make for a nice soak and there are several homestays nearby.Continuing south of Anderob towards Ishkashim, you’ll see the Koh-i-Lal ruby mine from the road. The region’s gem mines were mentioned by Marco Polo (who called the region Mt Shugnon) and Badakhshani rubies are still famed throughout the region. There are good views of Afghanistan from here, with its pyramid-shaped hay stacks and donkey caravans.

Ishkashim is the Wakhan’s regional centre and largest village. Every other Saturday there is a transborder market at the bridge crossing to Afghanistan, 3km west of town.

Some 15km from Ishkashim, near the village of Namadguti, is the impressive Kushan-era Khakha Fortress, dating from the third century BC and rising from a platform of natural rock. The fort is currently occupied by Tajik border guards, so ask before taking pictures, though the lower parts of the fort are generally accessible. Just 300m further on is the interesting Ismaili mazar (tomb) of Shah-i-Mardan Hazrati Ali, one of many places in Central Asia that claim to be the final resting place of the Prophet’s son-in-law.

Seven kilometres from Namadguti is the valley’s major checkpost, across from a ruined fortress. A further 20km, is the village of Darshai, where trekking routes lead over the mountains to the Shokh Dara Valley.

A further 57km from Khakha, 3km past Ptup village, is the turn-off for the ruined 12th-century Yamchun Fort (also known as Zulkhomar Fort), the most impressive in the valley, complete with multiple walls and round watchtowers. The site is a 6km switch-backed drive from the main road and sits about 500m above the valley. Climb up the hillside west of the fort for the best views. About 1km further uphill from the fort are the Bibi Fatima Springs (8am-6pm; admission locals/foreigners 1/5TJS), probably the nicest in the region and named after the Prophet Mohammed’s sister. Women believe they can boost their fertility by visiting the womblike calcite formations. Bring a towel and keep an eye on your valuables as there are no lockers. Men’s and women’s bath times alternate every half hour.

Yamg village is worth a brief stop for the tomb and reconstructed house museum of Sufi mystic, astronomer and musician Mubarak Kadam Wakhani (1843–1903). You can see the stone that he used as a solar calendar. If the museum is closed, ask around for Aydar Malikmadov.

Vrang is worth a stop for its fascinating 4th-century Buddhist stupas (some say fire-worshipping platforms). All around the ruins are the sulphurous remains of geothermal activity, as well as dozens of hermit caves. Walk through the village, cross the water channel and it’s a steep scramble to the site. Locals can show you the village’s water-driven mill. There’s a small museum and shrine at the base of the hill.

Four kilometres further on, along the Wakhan plain, is Umbugh Qala, used by the Tajik military and so off-limits. Some 16km from Vrang you’ll pass a colourful hot springs area, where locals stop for a hot bath. Four kilometres further, look across the river to the ruined Afghan fort of Qala-i-Panja, once the largest settlement in the Wakhan.

A further 29km (4km before Langar) is Abrashim Qala (Vishim Qala in Wakhi), the ‘Silk Fortress’ of Zong, built to guard this branch of the Silk Road from Chinese and Afghan invaders. The fort offers perhaps the most scenic views of all those in the valley. It’s a steep 45-minute hike up the hillside, though 4WDs can drive part way via Dirj village.

Langar (population 1800) is strategically situated where the Pamir and Wakhan Rivers join to form the Pyanj, marking the start of Afghanistan’s upper Wakhan, or Sarkhad region. It’s an excellent base to visit surrounding sites. For a half-day hike, hire a local guide (US$5) for the hour-long walk uphill (500m vertical ascent) to a collection of over 6000 petroglyphs. The village jamoat khana is easily recognisable by its colourful wall murals. Across the road is the mazar of Shoh Kambari Oftab, the man who brought Ismailism to Langar.

Ratm Fort has a strategic location, surrounded on three sides by cliffs. It’s 5.5km from Langar and a 15-minute walk off the main road through bushes. Its name means ‘first’ as it is the first fort in the valley.

From Langar the road continues 77km to a military check post at Khargush. En route keep your eyes peeled for Bactrian camels on the far (Afghan) side of the Pamir River. At Khargush the main road leads uphill over a pass (look behind for stunning views of the Koh-i-Pamir massif in Afghanistan) to the salt lake of Chokur-Kul, 25km from Khargush, which is normally teeming with bird life. From here it’s 12km to the main Pamir Hwy.

The protected area of Zor-Kul, further up the Pamir Valley from the Khorgush checkpost, can only be visited with a permit from Dushanbe and permission from the border guards (though there are actually no checks if you approach the lake from its eastern end, via Jarty-Gumbaz). The lake was determined to be the source of the Oxus River during the 1842 expedition of Lieutenant Wood, when it was named Lake Victoria.

交通：
Ishkashim has transport to Khorog (three hours, 20TJS) every morning. 需要在DUSHANBE办理边境证。否则检查站不让通行。

所以比较理想的线路还是飞杜尚别，办理边境证后，搭乘飞机前往KHOROG，再去ISHKASHIM游玩，爬山，返回KHOROG，再坐MINIBUS至边境城市：MURGHAB，蹭中国货车过卡拉苏口岸回到塔县。