快辞职了，也不想再费力费神替资本家卖命，还是练练语感好。这三则小新闻可能也不算新闻了，都是五月的事了哦~~平时爬得不多，还尽爬人工墙，很多名词也不知道怎么翻译，希望前辈指正。
Millet Won't Grade Realization
By Dougald MacDonald
Frenchman Sylvain Millet, who made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Realization at Ceuse, France, in late May, says he doesn't know how hard it is — the only sure thing, he says, is that it's harder than the 8c+ (5.14c) routes he has climbed at the same crag. Millet, ranked sixth in the world in competition climbing, spent three years working on the route, which adds about 50 feet of difficult climbing to Biographie, an 8c+ first redpointed in 1995 by Arnaud Petit. Millet made the third ascent of the original Biographie in 1999.
法国人SYLVAIN MILLET在五月末成为第二个完攀CHRIS SHARMA于法国CEUSE开发的REALIZATION的人。他说他并不清楚这条线究竟有多难，但有一点是可以肯定的，它比同一岩场中他爬过的所有8C+（5.14C）线路都要难。MILLET目前的世界排名为第六，他已经花了三年时间在这条线路上，为BIOGRAPHIE（译注：REALIZATION的前半段）上延了有难度的50英尺，这一段有8C+，于1995年被ARNAUD PETIT首次REDPOINT。MILLET在1999年成为第三个完攀BIOGRAPHIE的人。
After Sharma’s ascent in 2001, Realization was widely touted as 5.15a, despite the fact that Sharma never graded it. Unsuccessful attempts to repeat the route by strongmen such as Dave Graham and Patxi Usobiaga have added to its stature. But Millet says he has no idea if the climb is 9a+ (5.15a).
自从SHARMA在2001首次完攀之后，REALIZATION就被广泛地宣扬为具5.15a难度，尽管SHARMA从未为它定级。不少顶尖攀岩者如DAVE GRAHAM 和PATXI USOBIAGA失败的尝试令它更具崇高地位。但MILLET称他无法判断这条线路是否9a+(5.15a)。
“I don’t have enough reference to say if it is 9a or 9a+ — I have made only two 8c+’s [plus Biographie], and one of them has not been repeated. Moreover, I don’t care about that," Millet said. "The only thing that suggests it would be 9a+ is the number of climbers who are very strong who tried the route without linking it, and the number of tries which Chris did to link it — and me even more!”
“我没有足够的证明力断定它是否9a或9a+。我只完成过两条8c+的线路（加上BIOGRAPHIE），其中一条还没被别人完攀过。而且我也并不在乎这个。唯一似乎可以证明它可能是9a+的就是，许多非常有能力的攀岩者试图完成却都没有成功，CHRIS经过了无数次尝试才完攀——当然我尝试的次数要更加多得多。”
11-year-old climbs 5.14
By Dougald MacDonald
The 11-year-old Czech wonder boy Adam Ondra has redpointed Baby Basher (10+/5.14a) at Kochel, the fingery limestone area south of Munich, Germany. Ondra is thought to be the youngest ever to climb this grade, and he may climb even harder very soon. The young Czech already has onsighted five 5.13c climbs — if you accept the conventional wisdom that climbers usually can redpoint three to four letter grades harder than they can onsight, Ondra should be capable of climbing 5.14b before he turns 12.
十一岁的捷克天才男孩ADAM ONDRA REDPOINT了KOCHEL的BABY BASHER（10c+/5.14a），位于德国慕尼黑南部的一石灰岩地区。ONDRA是有史以来最年轻的5.14a完攀者，他很可能在近期就爬上更难的线路。这位年轻的捷克人已经ONSIGHT了五条5.13c。如果你认同对攀爬能力的传统看法：攀岩者一般能REDPOINT比他们ONSIGHT能力高三到四级的线路，那么当ONDRA12岁时，他很可能会具有5.14b的能力。
Caldwell Frees Dihedral Wall
By Dougald MacDonald
Tommy Caldwell has freed the Dihedral Wall on El Capitan, a strong candidate for the hardest big-wall free climb in the world. Caldwell redpointed the 25-pitch route over four days in mid-May. “The wall follows big, clean, long cracks. It’s really stunning,” Caldwell said. “It’s way more sustained than anything else I’ve done on El Cap.”
TOMMY CALDWELL 以自由攀形式登上了EL CAPITAN的DIHEDRAL WALL。他是全世界有能力以自由攀形式挑战最难的BIG WALL的人之一。五月中，他用了四天REDPOINT了这条有25个绳距的线路。“这线路沿着又宽又整齐且长的裂缝而上，真的棒极了。它比任何我爬过的EL CAP上的线路都要长，要需要耐力。”
After a 5.11 start, the next fifteen pitches of the Dihedral Wall are 5.12 or harder, including an amazingly sustained 10-pitch section from pitches 6 through 15. Of these 10 pitches, nine are 5.13 or 5.14, and the only easier pitch is a 5.12+ offwidth. Caldwell described this as a “super-rounded flaring offwidth that pinches off to nothing — you have to grab a pin scar and do these crazy kneebar moves to get out of the offwidth.” He said the 5.14a sixth pitch, a face-climbing variation originally bolted by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana, was the hardest pitch he had climbed yet on El Cap. Caldwell now has free climbed six El Cap routes (from left to right): Lurking Fear, West Buttress, Dihedral Wall, Salath Wall, Muir Wall, and Zodiac.
DIHEDRAL WALL以一段5.11的绳距起步，接下来的15个绳距都是5.12甚至更难，包括一段极需耐力的10个绳距（自第6至第15绳距）。这10个绳距中有9个达5.13或者5.14，唯一一个相对简单的是一段5.12c的OFFWIDTH（译注：OFFWIDTH是宽度比烟囱窄，但是又太宽以至不能用HAND JAM的裂缝）。CALDWELL形容道：“这真是个完美的OFFWIDTH，小捏点几近乎于无。你不得不抠着岩钉的划痕，不断做着KNEEBAR才能离开这片区域。”他说5.14a的第六绳距是他至今为止爬过的EL CAP上最难的，这一段是FACE CLIMBING（译注：FACE CLIMBING是区别于裂缝攀爬，我想就是我们平时面对这岩壁的爬爬吧），由TODD SKINNER和PAUL PIANA最先钉上BOLT（挂片？）开发。CALDWELL现在已经自由攀了六条EL CAP的线路：LURKING FEAR， WEST BUTTRESS， DIHEDRAL WALL， SALATH WALL， MUIR WALL， AND ZODIAC。
Caldwell soloed the Dihedral Wall last fall and then again this spring to inspect it for free climbing and begin to work out the moves. He replaced an old aid bolt and added two fixed pitons and some anchors at no-hands stances, but otherwise used existing fixed gear and removable protection. Caldwell continued to work on the free climb with Adam Stack, and he made his final four-day push along with his wife, Beth Rodden, who is recovering from a broken foot and had to jumar with a mountain boot protecting her injured foot. The route didn’t fall easily: Caldwell said he fell at least once on most of the hard pitches, and that some of them took five or six tries during his redpoint push.
去年秋天CALDWELL独自完成了DIHEDRAL WALL，今年春天他又一次为了FREE回到这里观察线路，找出合适的动作。他更换了一个老化了的AID BOLT，加了两个固定岩钉，还在一些没手点的地方放置了ANCHOR（固定绳子的东东？），否则就需要自带固定用的装备和可移除的保护装置。CALDWELL与ADAM STACK一起做了这些准备，最后历时四天的完攀则是与他的妻子BETH RODDEN一起。她骨折的腿还在恢复期中，只是穿了登山靴保护伤腿，用伽马（译注：一种上升器吧）上升。这条路线可不是容易被征服的：CALDWELL说在REDPOINT过程中，大部分的绳距上他都至少坠落一次，有些甚至经历了五六次的失败。
“I was really surprised when it went,” said Caldwell, who earlier this spring predicted he’d have to return at least one more season to send the Dihedral Wall. “I just worked hard and kind of stepped it up, and there you go.”
“完成的时候我真是非常惊讶，”CALDWELL说，他今年早春的时候就预计要回到DIHEDRAL WALL至少呆上一个季度。“我只是努力去爬，再稍微加紧一点，这就成了。”
师姐，你好厉害啊。羡慕ING。。。。。
翻译的很漂亮...
Realization是Chris Sharma首攀，不过不是他开的
8错
牛人真多
8错8错
省得我去挨个单词翻字典了。
猴哥真是好人啊～
猴哥，学英语和爬5。14的线，哪个要难一些
我觉得还是学英语难一点，5.14嘛～抓着上升器就上去了。
问题是要你存钱买上升器也不容易啊.
说来说去还是钱最难突破！55555555555
看来还是白天赚钱忙，晚上攀爬忙