基础课程之下降

虽然下降是很基础的常识，不过总有新人需要看看吧。（其实是因为我太无聊了）

Tech Tip - Sport - The basics of falling

By Arno Ilgner
Illustrations by Mike Clelland

When taking practice falls, have plenty of rope distance from your belayer; make sure your fall zone is steep and clear.

Falling is part of the climbing process. A hold breaks, we slip, pump out, and we’re off. It’s important to find appropriate ways to practice falling so we learn to do it safely.

下降是攀岩中的一个步骤。如果手点断裂，我们就会滑脱，后倾，然后下坠。采用正确的方式练习下降是至关重要的，那样我们才能学习怎样安全地下降。

Embrace. When we fall, intentionally or otherwise, we risk injury or death. To embrace the situation we need to be fully aware of everything that could happen. We need to honestly assess all the possible outcomes rather than block them out. By accepting the possibilities — death, injury, or no injury — we become fully aware of what we are getting ourselves into. This awareness is critical for effective and appropriate decision-making. Once we are conscious of all the possible outcomes, we can make effective, appropriate decisions that limit the kinds of fall consequences we engage.

坦然面对。当我们下坠的时候，不管你是否意识到，我们都处于一种可能死亡或受伤的状态中。为了能坦然面对这种情形，我们必须对一切有可能发生的事都有完全的认识。我们必须中肯评估所有可能的结果，而不是将它们置之不理。当接受了这些可能性（死亡、受伤、或不会受伤），我们就会比较全面地了解到我们到底是在做怎样的一种冒险。这种认知对于正确有效的决策是非常必要的。只有当我们充分了解了所有可能结果，我们才能作出正确有效的决定从而避免下坠时产生的严重后果。

Engage. By practicing falling we improve our ability to respond to a fall. Even though we want to embrace the possibility of injury, we want to minimize the chance of that outcome. Your fall practice zone should be free of any protruding ledges and should have bomber protection. In the beginning of your practice, choose a fall zone that is slightly overhanging to help reduce the possibility of injury. Then, as you gain experience, you can practice more hazardous falling situations, such as those on vertical rock or with slightly swinging falls. Have plenty of rope in the system — at least 50 feet of rope between you and your belayer — to absorb the fall force. The rope will stretch during your practice session, so, after a few falls, lower off and let the rope regain its shape and length. If you’re new to falling, engage it gradually. Begin on toprope. Get used to the feeling of hanging on the rope, perhaps “running” or “pedaling” back and forth across the rock. Then, tell your belayer to leave some slack in the rope while you climb up a few moves and take a fall. Next, try practicing your lead falls. Begin by simply letting go right by the bolt. Then, climb a move or two above the bolt and take a fall. Increase your fall distance in small increments. Maintain proper form as you practice falling. Proper form includes keeping your arms and legs slightly bent with your arms out in front at chest height so you can respond to potential impact. Don’t grab the rope. Step off gently rather than jumping out and back, which can cause you to slam into the wall. Pay attention to your breathing and how relaxed you feel. If you are holding your breath and feeling tense, then you need more practice before progressing to the next increment.

实践。我们通过练习下降提高下坠时的反应力。即使我们能坦然面对受伤的可能，我们还是想要把这种机率降到最低。练习区域内不应有外突的岩石，需有BOMBER（保护器的统称？）保护。刚开始时，要找有仰角的岩壁练习来减少受伤机会。当你有些经验了，就可以去更险峻的环境里练习，比如垂直的岩壁或者需要做摆荡的地方。确保保护系统中有足够长的绳子（你和确保人之间至少要有五十英尺长的绳）来吸收下坠产生的冲击。绳子在你下坠时会有些微的伸展并绷紧，下降一些之后放慢速度，让绳子能恢复原有的形状和长度。如果你是个新手，最好循序渐进。由TOPROPE（顶绳下降）开始，逐渐习惯半天吊的感觉之后还能试试在岩壁上“跑”或者“踏步”。然后再告诉你的确保者把绳放松点，让你向上爬些再下坠。随后，你可以尝试先锋攀的下降。开始先在挂片处放手，上攀一两个动作高过挂片后就可以下坠了。每次增加一点下坠距离，在下坠过程中保持正确的姿势。正确姿势就是指保持手臂及双腿微微弯曲，手臂举至当胸高，以便对潜在的危险作出反应。千万不要抓着绳子。在岩壁上轻缓地踏步而不是在其上乱蹦乱跳，蹦跳只会让你重重撞上岩壁。注意你的呼吸和放松。如果你总是紧张兮兮地屏住呼吸，那就需要多加练习才能进入下一个训练高度。

When taking diagonal falls, pay attention to the rope in relation to your feet. If you are directly above the bolt, then the rope needs to be between your feet. If you are to the right or left of the bolt, then the rope needs to be outside of your feet. Enjoy your flight!

当你呈斜线下降的时候，要留意绳与两脚的位置关系。如果你处于挂片的垂直上方，绳子就该在两脚之间。如果在挂片的左侧或右侧，绳子就要放在腿的外侧。祝训练愉快！