如何提供更好的抱石确保(转)

主题：安全之手--如何提供更好的抱石确保
版权所有：树树808 原作　提交时间：01:49:58 04月29日

Safe hands--how to give better bouldering spots
安全之手--如何提供更好的抱石确保
By Dave Pegg（Climbing Magazine,No207, Nov 1, 2001, P.92, ）

The worst spot I ever had was at Hueco Tanks, Texas. One moment I was near the top of Best of the West pawing at two miserable slopers; the next I was hurtling backward toward the ground. To his credit, my spotter didn't flinch. In fact, he didn't move -- an inch. I hit him like an express train and pancaked him into the ground. We both ended up flat on our backs, me badly winded, him bruised and shaken.
我碰到过最差劲的抱石确保，发生在德克萨斯的Hueco Tanks。前一刻我的双手还扒在两个痛苦的磨擦点上，接近Best of the West线路的顶端；而下一秒，我的背部猛烈地撞到地上。我的确保者对他的”功劳”丝毫不感到愧疚。事实上，他连一英寸都没有移动。我象高速列车一样把他撞倒在地。最后，我俩都躺在地上，我几乎喘不过气来，他则鼻青脸肿，不停地颤抖。

Good spotting is as important as good belaying. Yet, although we all go through the motions, surprisingly few boulderers give sufficient thought or attention to spotting -- or even know how to do it properly. As I learned at Hueco, a clueless spotter, no matter how courageous, is no substitute for one with good technique.
好的抱石确保同攀岩确保一样，都是非常重要的。尽管我们都曾经为别人确保， 但是能在确保过程中投以充分的注意和关心，甚至是知道如何正确进行抱石确保的抱石者，却少得令人惊讶。我在Hueco得到的教训是：一个无知的抱石确保者，无论多么热忱勇敢,也绝对无法取代一个经验丰富的确保者。

Bad spotting often stems from a misconception of what spotting is. Spotters don't have to "catch" falling boulderers. Instead their aim is to steer them onto a safe landing site, ensure they land feet first, and, if possible, slow them down a bit, taking some of the sting out of the fall.
不良的抱石确保往往源于对确保的误解。实际上确保者不需要「接住」脱落的抱石者，而是将他们导向一个安全的落点，确保抱石者是脚先着地；同时，尽可能减缓他们坠落速度，以减轻坠落带来的伤害。

The first step to good spotting is standing correctly. Position yourself a foot or so behind the likely point of impact, moving as the boulderer moves. Your knees and elbows should be slightly bent to absorb the shock of a fall; your palms should be open with the fingers extended -- bent, jammed digits are a common spotting injury. Resist the temptation to watch the boulderer's hands; focus on the area of the boulderer's hips or back where you intend to apply the spot.
良好抱石确保的第一步是站在正确的位置。站在可能的脱落位置之后一步左右，随着抱石者移动。略微地弯曲你的膝部和肘部，并张开手掌，用来吸收坠落带来的冲击；确保的时候要注意防止手指挫伤。别老是盯着抱石者的手部，把注意力放在抱石者的臀部或是背部，以随时提供必要的保护。

Fork lift. When spotting steep, medium-height problems, aim to grab the boulderer on both sides of the upper back, just below the armpits. This will tip him upright. Keep your outstretched hands as close to the boulderer's back as possible so he has little time to accelerate if he falls (figure 1).
Fork lift (叉车式)
当你确保的是较为陡峭、中等高度的线路时，瞄准抱石者背部上方的两侧，大约是腋下的地方。这样可以保证抱石者在脱落时身体保持竖直。伸出的双手尽量靠近抱石者的背部，使其脱落时的加速度减到最小。（图一）

Cradle spot. On low, steep problems you won't be able to get below the boulderer to apply a fork lift. Instead, stand or squat to one side of the boulderer and hold your arms slightly bent a couple of inches beneath her upper back, ready to cradle it in the crook of your elbows should she fall (figure 2).
Cradle spot(托盘式)
对于位置低而陡的抱石线路，你无法为抱石者提供叉车式的确保的时候。你应该站在或蹲在抱石者的一侧，将你的手臂略微弯曲，置于抱石者上背部下方几英寸处，以随时准备用你的臂弯来托住她。（图二）

Hip spot. This spot is used on higher and less-steep problems where the boulderer is likely to fall feet first. Track her hips with your outstretched hands, again keeping them as close as possible. In the event of a fall, grab the hips and steer the boulderer to a safe landing zone (figure 3).

Hip spot（托臀式）
这种方式的确保是用在比较高，不太陡、抱石者有可能脚先着地的线路上。伸出双手，尽可能贴近抱石者的臀部，并且随之移动。如果抱石者脱落，扶住其臀部并引导他在安全的区域着地。

A good spotter, well versed in these techniques, can give you the confidence to pull that dicey upside-down move, big dyno, or airy, highball topout. Your spotter can't, however, eliminate the dangers of bouldering. Remember, whenever you take a nasty fall you're not only putting yourself at risk, you're endangering him too. Be considerate, discuss the problem and potential dangers with your spotter -- and know when to back off.
作为一位优秀的确保者，必须精熟以上的抱石确保技巧，才能使抱石者放心地尝试冒险的头冲下、大动态 、飞跃等危险动作。然而，你的确保者也不可能消除抱石的危险性。记住，无论何时，只要你发生严重的坠落，不只是自己在冒险，也会危及你的确保者。务必谨慎小心，与你的确保者分析每条抱石路线和可能的危险性，并知道何时该放弃。