Berg ohne Gnade(山不怜悯，Mountain without mercy)队的 道拉吉里 攀登日记
2009年2月发布，攀登日期：2003-04-09 至 2003-05-23
他们于4月21日抵达 BC(4700米)，进行适应活动，直至月中 终于等到好消息：5月19至23日将有5日好天气机会，于是他们决定，17日从 BC 出发至 C1(5700米)，18日 C1 → C2(6600米)，19日 C2 → C3(7400米) 并铺设500米路绳，20日从 C3 尝试冲顶。 结果 努力得到回报，成功达顶并安全撤返。
他们的记录详尽，照片精彩，让人彷佛如临现场，感受了一次攀登之旅。
全部日记共分4部分，现主要摘取第4部分。 有兴趣的可以自行上网看，原是德文的，我附有第4部分(连小图)的英文版，有14页。
从他们的记录亦可以了解到，道拉吉里 的气象变化多端，反复极速。
BC 景象 1~4
1. BC → C1 垂直距离 1000米，C1 → C2：900米，C2 → C3： 800米，C3 → 顶峰：767米，这是适应此山峰特性之传统经验。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:35
2. 道拉吉里 的风与雪 都来得 猛与大。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:35
3. 这种雾气令人如坠五里
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:36
4. 细雪下 折曲的地貌更为明显，亦看得出风暴即将来袭。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:37
从 BC 到 C1 5~6
5. 从 BC 到 C1 须绕过一座高耸的 Eiger，图中小径攀行着的小人依稀可见。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:38
6. 此段路 明暗冰隙甚多，2009年波兰 高寒攀登 新生代之精英 Piotr Morawski 即坠落图中远处25米深冰隙，不治身亡。他已完成6座8000米，包括 希夏邦马 的首度冬攀，终年仅33岁。参见http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/thinair/digest//349006,0,0,1.html
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:39
C1 7~9
7. 建在这里 好处是擂风
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:40
8. 不好处是 防不了强雪
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:40
9. 就是这样！ 挖帐篷已成 道拉吉里 的一道风景。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:41
10. 高处起风，足以令攀登者失控而导致滑坠；雪崩与滑坠 是这里的两大杀手。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:42
11. 雪崩，道拉吉里 的传统攀登路线相对并不迂回，但它大部分的斜坡都属于雪崩高危地带。它的雪崩一般不大，但所形成的冲力波 已足以造成损伤破坏。 相信 1998年 法国 的 Chantal Mauduit 即因此殒命，她已完成6座8000米，包括無氧 K2，並為登上 洛子 的首名女性，终年仅34岁。参见 Women on High http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/thinair/digest/2/66426,0,0,0.html
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:43
12. 攀向 C2，此段路 明暗冰隙亦甚多。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:44
C2 营地 13~14
13. 以坡度计，雪崩的发生25~30度处最为高危。当然还要看地势、风向、重力、温度、湿度、雪况等等，样样皆学问。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:44
14. 看来也没有多少可供选择的。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:45
15. C2 所见 BC 一带
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:46
攀向 C3 16~17
16. 传统路线基本上 全程依东北峻脊攀爬，少有喘息之处。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:46
17. 往上地势越发陡险
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:47
18. 铺设路绳 需消耗大量体能及时间，除特强队伍，一般要求 夏尔巴协作代劳。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:48
19. 挖掘平台以供设置 C3营地
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:48
20. C3 如遇强风强雪赛无法招架
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:49
21. C3 已在云彩之上 飘逸欲仙
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:50
22. 冲向顶峰，受地势所限，一般上方已不再铺设路绳。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:50
23. 此处往前 即为山顶脊线；日记有处述说，大气幻变时 山顶脊线充满电荷，众人即往旁侧躲避。 还不太清楚当时的情况。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:51
24. 横切雪壁，应尽量以较快度速通过。1999年 英国 的 Ginette Harrison 冲顶途中 即在此处 遭雪崩身亡。该年她丈夫担任领队，留守 BC作后援，当时同队已有2人登顶，她随后登顶 却不幸遭受意外。她已完成4座8000米，并为首名登上 干城章嘉 的女性，终年41岁。 参见 Women on High http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/thinair/digest/2//66426,0,0,2.html
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:52
25. 陡峭险坡，似乎在这里也不好设置保护绳：受力点不易觅，经常强风，斜坡太长，时间问题。 从这里 再坚持一下就达顶了，谁愿意给担搁了上去的机会；除非是让 夏尔巴协作 先上来一趟，可能吗？这里并没有 珠峰 那种大产业哩。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:53
26. 攀登吃力，曾看过一位颇出名攀登家的自传，他回忆自己爬第一座8000米的情况，事先各种训练、准备工作 都做得超百分，以为自己应该完全没有问题。熟知上到8000米的时候，样样都不管用，靠的只是一个，意志力的坚持！结果 他敖了过去。 经过努力调整锻炼方法，之后所有的高峰都得以任意傲游，当然，是无氧的； 若有任何高度不适的征状，可千万不能继续坚持或隐瞒，必须下撤或施救，否则 必死无疑。Berg ohne Gnade ！
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:53
27. 登上鞍部，再几步 就晓得这山是否接纳自己了。
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:54
到达顶峰
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:55
顶峰远眺
yatyat
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2010-05-21 16:56
想象下撤时候的景况!
yatyat
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2010-05-22 10:49
伊朗队2010-04-26 登顶 道拉吉里 照，他们 曾于2006、2009、2010年3度攀登此山，09年更牺牲了一员全国顶级的攀登者 Mehdi Etemadfar。 今年攀登队1 3人，最后冲顶 为安全计 只派5人出击，总算成功了。登顶者为 伊朗4人，夏尔巴协作1人。
yatyat
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2010-05-22 10:50
在这山峰遇难的 有一半是因雪崩造成，加上滑坠 就占了七成，再加上衰竭(亏竭)、失踪，就差不多是全部了。
yatyat
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2010-05-24 17:27
2008-05-01 当日共有21人登上 道拉吉里，包括 Gerlinde (12:00), Edurne (13:15), Kinga(15:15)， 3名我已连续报导多年的 高寒女子，还有另一名 西班牙女子于16:00单独登顶，是该日最后一名，21人全部安全撤返。
Gerlinde 的照片，可以看清楚 登峰前的大斜坡，并无设置保护绳或路绳。
yatyat
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2010-05-24 17:33
Kinga 同日的照片，左上 7800米，其余都在较高8000米左右处。
yatyat
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2010-05-24 17:34
Kinga 坐在顶峰，就像我们在 深圳 排牙山！(能不汗颜？) 右上图的具体位置 请和上面的第27图作比较，或能看明白；她们在做什么？恕卖一个关子，很奇怪，其实亦常有的。 右下 次日 Kinga 下撤中遇到风暴。
yatyat
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2010-05-24 17:36
本初稿曾参阅多方数据，包括 十一郎兄之《中国人在珠峰的死亡名单》，谨致谢！ 闻 中国登山队曾有一份 24人遇难名单，惜目前无法细作核对。 只计 攀登8000米主峰并到达 BC 以上，也不算往返 BC 期间。
与 亚洲之 日本、南韩 相比，中国人在8000米山峰的遇难者数仍是較少的。 如果没有做好各方面的锻炼与调整，随着参加人数的增加，不幸的数目 无可避免 必然大幅增加。 所期望的是，这些不幸的数目，能够维持在一个合理的范围内。 所有参与者 都明瞭也做足自己本份的 义务或要求水平，在高寒攀登里期待零数目 是不切实际的。 无以承担不幸的，必须事先做好自我评估，或干脆避免或减少参与这项活动。
yatyat
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2010-05-25 16:53
Berg ohne Gnade 队在 道拉吉里 所见之 安纳普尔那群山，前者约位于后者之西南方，正是 尼泊尔 境内 喜玛拉雅山脉最西端两座8000米高峰。安纳普尔那 雪崩频繁人所共知，其实 道拉吉里 的雪崩亦相当频仍， 两者极其相似，只是 安纳普尔那 的地形更为复杂迂回，气象骤变之际 更难逃脱；道拉吉里 虽名气不大，但稍有差错 或命中注定，不少攀登名家亦都被她留下了。
yatyat
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2010-05-26 16:44
备注： 1. 尼泊尔 有10次重复登顶，实际登顶为51人；日本 则为47人。
2. 截至2010年前，则 中国 登顶：遇难之数据为 9：0 伊朗为0：1。
3. 尚有多国亦为零遇难，但登顶人数未足10人，未罗列。
4. 若干国家之遇难数相当甚或超过登顶人数，但总数亦仅1~2人，未列。
5. 道拉吉里 之死亡率 计算至 2008年夏，2009年底，2010年5月中国人不幸事件后，分别为 16.20，14.87 及 15.12。
先提出一点：尼泊尔 夏尔巴协作之高死亡率现象并非仅出现在 道拉吉里，而且除了遭受较高的死亡威胁之外，在高寒攀登活动中，他们还被迫接受种种不公平的对待，希望国人亦能够拼除一些固有观念，能够较完整的分析、评价，他们在团队中所能、所应 担当之角色。
一并放在这里 方便看
yatyat
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2010-05-27 16:49
翻阅记录发现，原来 Kinga 与 Nives Meroi 都是第2年度才能够登上 道拉吉里，可见 顺应时势 断定行止 在高寒攀登中之重要性。
05年 Nives 原以为已登上了顶峰，当日稍后 发现竟认错了山顶，低了10米！ 后来却怎么也没机会再上去了，只好次年再来，幸好成功了。
登顶照，左边是假的，右边才是真的。 左下，06年登顶前两天，正准备从 C1出发。右下，06年登顶前半小时，即将到达去年的假之顶峰。(现已被一些人笑称为 意大利顶峰！)
yatyat
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2010-05-27 16:52
Nives写有一篇近8000字的 《道拉吉里(05) 攀登日志》，其中有多处谈及 攀登 道拉吉里 的困难要点，并不在于直壁的技术难度，而是：难以捉摸的天气、漫长的雪坡、不稳的积雪，以及 雪崩、强风，不安全的路绳等等，对于 不借助氧气 不借助协作的攀登者，只能以自身之力量及累积之经验 来与之较劲。
yatyat
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2010-05-28 17:45
曾與 中國民間隊在 BC 相處多時，並結伴同行至 C1，再 C2 之 奧地利 Stephan Keck 及Paul Gürtler二人組，回到 加德滿都 仍對意外事件感到震惊。 他們說 曾經与中国队在一起 並分析山中形势。 當時的氣象預測是不怎麼好但也不太壞，有資料顯示5月12日將有一股氣流越過山峰。但气象预报永不可能絕對真確，所以是否往上(攀爬) 總會存有爭議。不幸的是 天氣果然發生變化，往上就會危險了。
(We are still shocked. We have often been together with the Chinese team and have analyzed the situation. The weather forecast for the peak walk was not good, but also not bad. There was a statement that the jetstream will blow pass the mountain on May 12th. A weather forecast is never sure, so a start of a peak walk was arguable. Unfortunately the weather changed and the peak walk was getting dangerous. 见 http://stephan-keck.at/?p=379 下同)
他们对中国队的一些评价：
没有充分做好适应 (the not well acclimatized Chinese team)
(对天气问题)很有经验(The Chinese team was very experienced with conditions like these. They reached the peak of the Manaslu a half year ago.)
他们对中国队的一些猜想：
往上(攀爬)时耗尽了氧气(We guess that the oxygen of the not well acclimatized Chinese team got empty already at their way up.)
因为很有经验，认为值得携氧往上一搏(the Chinese team decided to keep going up with oxygen. The Chinese team was very experienced with conditions like these. They reached the peak of the Manaslu a half year ago. That's maybe why they took the risk and saw good chances.)
2010-05-11 道拉吉里 C2
yatyat
·
2010-05-28 17:50
他们庆幸自己决定留下 而在 C2 遭遇恶劣天气，中国队决定往上 而酿成悲剧。(Unfortunately this ascent ended in a drama. We are glad about our decision after the fight against the storm. )
他们认为，山之警示 中国队的悲剧 是(他们)此行所得到之最大的教训。(What we take with us from this expedition is mainly the warning of the mountain because of the drama with the Chinese team.)
错误的决择 可能会失去一次登顶的机会，但是，这世界上可没有一座山，是值得我们拿健康来作为冒险。(A defensive decision is sometimes the reason to fail to reach the peak, but no mountain of the world is worth to risk our health.)
2010-05-18 加德滿都
yatyat
·
2010-05-29 16:36
随着 瑞士 Kobler 队的撤出，道拉吉里 今年度(2010)春季的攀登业已宣告结束。他们决定不再继续往 C2以上攀登，是坚持 把风险尽可能降到最低 的原则，这是团队必须恪守的信念。 (keep to our principle, the risk as small as possible, we have remained faithful.)
详情可参阅Kobler队的网页 http://www.kobler-partner.ch/berichte.php?jahr=2010&view=441
2010-05-21 队员在 6200米 C2 营地前，静待领队 分析情况 作出是留 抑是撤的决定。
yatyat
·
2010-05-30 16:57
Kobler 队在 2010-05-28 写于 加德满都 的网页中 不讳言，极希望50周年之际登上这座 瑞士人的山峰，但历经46天的帐篷生活，这座山 仍是以 狂风暴雪 拒绝了他们，奈何。
看Kobler队的人员配置，相信不少人会感到意外：他们10名队员，只有5名 夏尔巴协作，另加一名厨师，3名厨工，仅此而已；队员里还有3人是退休长者哩。
Kobler队在 BC 的合家福
yatyat
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2010-05-30 16:59
人与山，往与撤，勇气与理性，…总该有一个平衡点吧。
yatyat
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2010-06-02 16:49
上列是2009年 道拉吉里 的登顶名单，其中包括有 南韩 双姝。 可以看出 因受种种客观因素所限，此山的登顶时间一般都较晚。 吴银善 在 13：30登顶，她本人没吸氧，陪同的两名 夏尔巴协作 却负重携氧 以防万一；高美胜 俩人吸氧 有一名 夏尔巴协作陪着，她登顶的时间稍晚，在 16：00，而且 从 2009女子 高寒攀登 简报 可知(http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/thinair/digest/349006,0,0,7.html )，她两天前 因 18：00 时候只能到达 7950米而被迫折返，后来提前至 23：30 出发，仍需 16：09 始达顶，连番征战 已呈现 强弩之末势态了。
今年截至目前，登顶 道拉吉里 只有 4月26日的 伊朗队5人(之前他们曾于06、09年两度失败 并在8050米高处牺牲了一员主将) 及 5月13日的 中国民间队(8人另加 夏尔巴协作 ？)。 故 道拉吉里 本年度 之 登顶 与 遇难 比 百分数 为 23.08，若加上5名 夏尔巴协作 则为16.67，与长期之数据相若。
yatyat
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2010-06-02 16:54
被Reinhold Messner 誉为当代最优秀登山家之 斯洛文尼亚 的Tomaz Humar，曾于1999年从南壁之 死亡之线 攀登 道拉吉里。 他有一句名言：每一座山都有它的灵魂。如果山不接受你，你不服从她的意志，她会毁了你。(Every mountain has its soul. If the mountain doesn’t accept you and you don’t submit to her will, she will ruin you.)
Humar 多番以超难度自我挑战 (他的另一名句 “What ever you do, do it with passion”) 与死神擦身而过，去年(2009-11-09) 却被 尼泊尔 一座小山Langtang Lirung (7,234 米)给永远留下来了，终年仅40岁。
Tomaz Humar 与 道拉吉里 南壁路线图
yatyat
·
2010-06-03 16:51
2009-05-01道拉吉里登頂 及 遇難 记述
"It was like a fata morgana", David describes
Five days since Mehdi Etemadfar’s missing in Mt. Dhaulagiri, we should believe on his death.
According to the report by Czech David FojtiK, Mehdi along with him, Turkish Tunc Findic, Czech Pavla Pilchova and Dawa Sherpa left Camp 2 toward Camp 3 in the morning of April 30th. It was the first time that mountaineers were touching Camp 3 in this season.
A few minutes behind David, Mehdi arrived at C3, while they decided to share a tent in that high wind. In the evening there were two separate teams in C3; Korean team composed of 8 mountaineers and sherpas and team of David, Tunc, Mehdi and Dawa. Pavla had turned back just shortly below C3.
"At around 23:00, the summit push started; Koreans first and Mehdi and I were half an hour behind them. Koreans were trying to put fixed rope everywhere, therefore we decided to return to camp and start later on 2:00 A.M. instead of staying in cold weather", David wrote.
They waited till 2:00 A.M., when they realized that Tunc and Dawa are preparing to climb as well. Despite a long time waiting for Koreans to go farther, they quickly caught up with Koreans and continued behind them up to 7900m, where Koreans ran out of the rope. They were going to turn back, but David and Tunc decided to try for the summit anyway. It was around 11:00 - 12:00 A.M. .
David continued: "Taking turns; we started to break the trail to where we thought the summit was and realized that others were slowly following us. Me and Tunc went first, Mehdi with Dawa were 150m behind us, then Korean group. After couple of hours, we found the couloir leading to the summit and at around 14:30-15:00, I started to climb it with Tunc being maybe 50m behind and Mehdi maybe another 100m behind. I could not see Mehdi at that point because the weather dramatically worsened, There was whiteout conditions and signs of an approaching storm."
Looking for the summit at the end of the couloirs, Tunc and David noticed that the whole summit ridge was charged by electricity. So they ran away from the summit and immediately returned back to the couloir.
"Anyway, with Tunc already down the couloir I started to descend as well. About 20 meters down the couloir I put on my skis and started to ski down. At that point, while skiing down, I saw a figure at the bottom of the couloir, maybe 50 to 70m below me. Suddenly this figure tripled 3 times backwards, gaining big speed, shouting out something and disappearing into the whiteout. It could have lasted 1 to 3 seconds, not more. At that moment I thought I was dreaming or having a fata morgana. All this was very intensive and too much for my brain to comprehend", David Added.
Skiing down, David looked for marks of a possible fall, but found nothing. He also shouted out, but there was no response.
After David and Tunc, there were also Korean team on the summit in the late hours of May 1st, and he guess they did not see any traces of Mehdi.
"I am convinced that Mehdi died due to a fall between 15:30 and 16:00 on May 1st, 2009", David ended up.
Mehdi Etemadfar 滑坠 估计位置图
yatyat
·
2010-06-04 16:24
谢谢 枫叶红了 快又准 的翻译！ 译写能力最少 比我强100倍，惭愧仍停留在两指击键，已達无可救药的地步了。
2009-05-01当日登顶共9人：捷克的 David FojtiK (16：00)，土耳其的Tunc Findic (16：15)，南韩3人及 夏尔巴协作4人则于 18：30 登顶，全部安全撤返； 记录上，伊朗的 Mehdi Etemadfar 是2009-05-01于8050米处 滑坠失踪而遇难，时间16：30，并未达顶。
Mehdi 生前应是 伊朗国内资历最佳的攀登员，曾登遍 俄罗斯 境内所有7000米山峰，获得Snow Leopard(雪豹)称号。他攀登 Khan-Tengri、Pobeda 及 Lenin 峰 都是以阿尔卑斯方式单独进行，他曾登上 布洛阿特 及G I，并曾参加 2006伊朗队 攀登 道拉吉里。 他壮志未酬而遇难，可说是 伊朗攀登界之重大损失。
今年 伊朗队 终于成功登顶，在该国登协的撰文里竟看到，他们要在 道拉吉里 登山径 4800 及 5400米处为 Mehdi 与其它队员建立两座纪念碑！ 是在外国地盘哩。(私人的见得多，以公家名义 可以吗？)
(哈萨克 攀登者亦是藉获取Snow Leopard称号来锻炼攀登之基本功，期待国内也能够早日设立类似制度，这可是货真价实的真衔头啊！)
David FojtiK 下山后，因手指严重冻伤，需由直升机载往 加德满都 紧急接受治疗，幸无大碍。
2010-04-26 伊朗队 登顶，曾见 中国民间队传回来这样的讯息：“伊朗队的登顶 代表道路已打通。成功登顶后的伊朗队将在明天或后天撤离大本营；今天他们来中国队营地道别，并提供了冲顶线路的照片资料供我们参考。” 假如 伊朗队 亦曾把他们在这山峰里之种种挫伤也同时传授与 中国队，相信所有人作决择时 必然更趋谨慎。
照片(左起)是：捷克 David FojtiK、捷克 Pavla Pilchova (C3 前下撤) 、土耳其 Tunc Findic、伊朗 Mehdi Etemadfar 等，冲顶前 摄于 道拉吉里 BC。
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:05
原来 Berg ohne Gnade 的作者 Dieter Albin Porsche 当年是紧随着 法国 天才攀登家 Jean Christophe Lafaille 之足迹，而成功登上 道拉吉里。
他们下撤至8000米左右横切的时候，同队的 Christoph V. Preysing 突然发生滑坠，并把旁边 瑞典队的 Frank Meutzner (亦有资料称为Fredrik Hans Strang) 拉在一起滑落，两人幸好在600米下方成功制停，没有摔向深渊。Dieter 跟在后面 看得发呆，当爬到俩人附近，却发现他们似乎并没有什么大伤，只是 Christoph 表现碰碰跌跌的 已不辨方向的样子，众人只能扦扶着他们缓慢下撤，并用对讲机向 C3求援。
经多方折腾，待高山协助赶到时候，天色已暗，寒风透骨，大家仍仅停留在斜坡某处。 至午夜时分 Dieter 开始为自己挖冰洞，但弄来弄去 总是感觉太小，最后钻进去仍露出上身，只好在寒风中颤抖挣扎。
好不容易熬至曙光乍现，Dieter才明白自己是躺在一处约45度的冰坡，极有滑坠的可能。待肢体慢慢恢复了感觉，Dieter 猛然发现四周所有的人都不见了，到底昨夜里发生了什么事情？实在百思不得并解！ 但求生意识让他明白，必须自救，必须往下爬。
经过两个小时的摸索，Dieter终于找到一段旧的路绳，得救了！ 他晓得返回的路线了。 大概8点钟的时候，Dieter 终于回到了 C3，队友迎接他的是 极度的惊喜及愕然，几乎没有人敢期待他，经过一夜露宿高处，仍能够独自返来。
Dieter 原想追问队友为何不去设法搜救自己？ 但看见众人疲惫不堪的样子，他也再出不了声了。
2003-05-20 共有7人登上 道拉吉里，全部幸运返回。 其实 2003年也就这7人达顶，Dieter 返回 BC后，立即由直升机接往 加德满都，再转机回国治疗。
后来他继续登山，目前已完成8座8000米山峰；去年 Dieter 已把攀登 道拉吉里 的记录出版成书，今年(2010)又出版了关于 珠峰 及南迦帕尔巴特 (Nanga Parbat) 的书。 有关 Dieter 攀登 道拉吉里 的日志，可从本贴Post #31，下载阅览。
Dieter 关于 道拉吉里 的书
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:07
2003年Jean Christophe Lafaille 以 Amical Alpin Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2003 队的名义攀登 道拉吉里，只是为了方便取得攀登许可，实际上 他只分得一名 BC厨师及杂工而已，其它一切事项 包括装备、粮食等等，一概自己打理。 Amical Alpin 的老板正是 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner 的丈夫 Ralf，但当年俩人尚未结合； Dieter Albin Porsche 也是这队的真正成员，但似乎这队有7或8名成员，却只有1名协作及1名位名义上的领队，所以国外的所谓商业队伍，实际操作情况 可以依据所订立的合约协议，而有多种的不同运作形式。
Lafaille 是 2003-04-19 进驻 BC (4700米)，其后 C1 (5800米)，但因天气不佳，直至 5月中仍无法超越 C2 (6800米)。 5月16日 Lafaille 的小工来到 Marpha 购置补充粮食，与 Lafaille的太太 Katia Lafaille联系上，告之 Lafaille 已定下攀登日程，无论如何 最迟5月21日必定赶过来。 Katia在此处带着两名分别为2岁及9岁的小孩，正等待父亲带领一家人往附近一带远足！
Lafaille的攀登计划日程，其实大致与 Dieter 队所定的大致相同：17日从 BC 出发到 C1，18日留宿 C2，19日留宿 C3 (7500米)。 20日清晨 Lafaille 出发冲顶，04：30 横切一段大斜坡，Lafaille的评语是 技术上并不太难，但绝不容丝毫出错 (a traverse, that wasn’t technically difficult, but wouldn’t excuse a mistake)。据不完全统计，至今已有超过10人在处出意外！ 约10：00 Lafaille 就率先成功登顶，他紧记好友 Ed Viesturs 的忠告，要小心认清峰顶 (difficulties of reaching the true summit. A large number of expeditions stop in the wrong place)，他只在上面停了15分钟，即怱怱下山。 下撤时 遇见仍在往上攀爬的 Dieter 等人。
当日16：30 Lafaille 已收拾、携同山上所有装备 返抵BC！ 并打点 BC 所余事项，准备次日与等待中之妻儿会合；对于山上所发生的事故，他暂无暇知晓。
人 就是有这么大的差异性！ 但 太天才 太爱山的人，最后还是被山留下来了！
Lafaille 的 BC
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:07
BC 风暴 Lafaille 摄
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:08
从 C2 所见 C1 (5800米)，BC 在极右下方。
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:09
Lafaille 之单人 C2 (6800米)
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:10
C2 (7500米)营地，其中共有3队伍。
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:10
道拉吉里 最准确的峰顶，据说超过一半登顶者并没有真正达顶！
yatyat
·
2010-06-05 19:11
Lafaille 在顶峰的自拍照
yatyat
·
2010-06-06 17:57
Katia Lafaille 在 Marpha
(Jean Christophe Lafaille 2003-05-20 登上 道拉吉里，当夜返回 BC，21日下午3点 他已背着大包 飞跑赶到离 BC 25km 的 Marpha 小镇，他晓得他的太太正带着两名 分别为2岁及9岁的小孩 焦虑地等待，因为此前他曾留言：20最迟21日会赶来，否则是有严重的事故了。 感人的故事 让这座山峰更感人。 )
yatyat
·
2010-06-11 16:27
2003-05-21 下午 Lafaille 与 妻儿会合之后，一家人就在 安纳普尔那 山区 徒步游玩了一个多星期。 5月30日这家人又来到 加德满都 机场，又是痛苦分离的时刻：Katia Lafaille 带着两个小孩飞返 法国，Lafaille 则转往 巴基斯坦，继续高寒攀登。 这年，6月23日他与 意大利 的Simone Moro 一起开辟新路 登上 南迦帕尔巴特(Nanga Parbat, 8126m)，7月15日又与 美国的 Ed Viesturs 登上了 布洛阿特(Broad Peak, 8047m)。
2003年，Jean Christophe Lafaille 生命中的一束光辉就是从 道拉吉里 碇放爆发开来。
yatyat
·
2010-06-11 16:34
2005年，Jean Christophe Lafaille 携太太Katia Lafaille 参加 Piolet d'Or 颁奖典礼。 可惜 次年初，Lafaille 就被留在高寒雪山 没有再回来了。
yatyat
·
2010-06-11 16:54
道拉吉里 至凄惨感人的事故发生在 2007-04-29 下午两点，就在顶峰脊线8000米附近，意大利队伍中一对夫妻檔正准备爬上山巅，丈夫突然发生滑坠，不幸直接碰撞到斜坡大石块上，就在妻子的眼底下，当场死亡！ 她顿时被吓得 惊慌失措 嚎啕大哭，怎么再也不肯离去(下撤)，……
(详细情况 请自行阅读罢了)
Dhaulagiri 2007: More details on the death of SERGIO DELLA LONGA
LETTER FROM LINA QUESADA Hello friends:
Sadly my message today is not nice at all, I will try to do a modest homage to my teammate SERGIO DELLA LONGA, who sadly died last April 30 around 14.00 h. in Nepal just 10 meters away from the sumit of haulagiri.
I had the pleasure of meeting him in the winter of 2006 when we were already talking about Dhaulagiri, he and his wife, but elite climbers, impressed me with their resumé, great walls in Yosemite, all the routes in Nose, the mescalito, etc., Tower Hill, Eiger, the great Jorasses, all that is climbable in the French Dolomites and the Alps as well as the Italians and in Switzerland, and how treacherous fate can be to do this.
When we arrived to Base Camp in Dhaulagiri, just a month before, on March 30, and we were stunned when we saw the South Wall, the Eiger of the Himalayas, we never could imagine that that Mountain of such captivating beauty, which looked so elegant and pretty in its route, its vertical and white ridge, never, never ever, we could imagine the drama that would develop in the meters close to its summit, that hosts so many lives now (4). Young people, strong, sportive, healthy, all with the illusion of reaching the summit.
Nine people left for the summit on the early morning of the 29 to the 30 of April, one turned around at 7,600m and the remaining 8 continued, tired, not exhausted but tired, because the night on camp 3 was hard, strong winds and the altitude hit too. Around 13.00 h. they started to get to the summit and around 14.00 when Sergio Della Longa and his wife Rosa were finishing the corridor they were climbing and close to exit from it, fate made Sergio lose his balance with so much bad luck that his piolet did not stop him and he went down to hit the only rock nearby, because the corridor is all snow and ice, Sergio died suddenly before his wife’s eyes.
The drama that began to develop was terrible, because they were climbing since 5.00 in the morning, all of those who were tiredly coming down from the summit had to try to move Rosa, who between cries, tears and a terrible commotion, said she would not leave, that he wanted to stay with her partner, her husband… Even now I can’t help the tears when I remember the image of Rosa, exhaust and half alive when she was brought back to Base Camp.
The teammates that brought her down, still in commotion, back in Camp 3, Mario Merelli and Mario Panzeri who started to climb around midnight on the night of the 30th, had to bring her down by the fixed lines, because Rosa, who had all her fingers black and her hands with frostbite, the rest of the teammates with some black fingers too, couldn’t help her anymore.
The drama continued, they had to patronize her like a little girl to stop crying and to get to work, because she fell once and again over the vertical ice wall that leads from camp 3 to camp 2.
We already knew the news in base camp, I was going to climb on May 3 with a group from Pamplona, I had climbed up to camp 3 on the 29th with the two Marios and I decided to climb back down alone and attempt the summit later, because my head was about to explode, and those moments waiting at base, that can never be compared to what the others were suffering, were terrible.
When she arrived by night to base camp they began to take care of her with water, betadine, heparine, antibiotics and aspirins. Right now Rosa is in the hospital in Katmandu with Merelli who is in charge of taking care of her all the time and between us all we try to feed her, we help her, but there is a lot still left for her to recover physically and mentally.
It was a hard hit for all of us, to unmount base camp with tears, to remember that eight of us came and only seven are leaving, none of us has even mentioned that we wanted to reach the summit, we have left all our tents up there so that the other climbers still there can use them, because we had to save Rosa no matter what, the material was secondary.
I have always heard about deaths in the mountain and I had seen that coldly, distantly, but I would never have imagined that it was that hard, a simple slip, a young person, strong, prepared… I can’t be admitted or forgotten.
Thanks friends for the messages of support, we were all saying yesterday that we have to change our lives, to buy some land and raise chickens, go to the beach, be with our family more time and avoid so much risks, but the truth is that it was fate which through a beautiful mountain had to steal us the life of a friend and a teammate, the mountain once more, where his wife has decided that he wanted to stay to rest.
For the great climber and friend SERGIO DELLA LONGA
Lina Quesada
Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
yatyat
·
2010-06-13 04:11
表中4月29日登顶的，都是与 意大利夫妇同行而在前面达顶者； 我想介绍的是在4月26日登顶的两位，他俩不仅练就有超级之攀登技能，其所具备的攀登者之高尚情怀，更值得响往 学习！
yatyat
·
2010-06-14 17:46
谢谢 枫叶 的翻译！
Lina Quesada 与 Rosa 都是 意大利 Mario Merelli 队仅有的两员女将，但Lina 被分为第二组，出事后亦未再冲顶了。
Mario Merelli曾多次带队攀登 道拉吉里，2001年也曾有一名 西班牙队员在8000米附近不幸失坠身亡，这似乎对他的领队生涯 并无造成太大影响，Lina 2006年登上 GII，就是跟 Mario Merelli 带的队伍。
2008年Lina 继续攀山，成功登上了 珠峰，今年5月 她率领了一支女子队攀登 洛子，可惜在 C3 就撤返了 (她早前已登上 卓奥友，够4 x 8000，就是高寒女子了。)
另看资料，原来这年4~5月份时，Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner亦正在 Dhaulagiri (但08年重来 才成功登顶)，出事时她仍在 BC，她的记录是：“Sadly we have bad news, A climber fell to death yesterday, shortly below the summit. Six other climbers are back in BC, some of them with frostbitten fingers.”
更不幸的是，遇难者的亲兄 Marco Dalla Longa，亦于2005年在印度 喜玛拉雅山区攀山时遇难，意大利登协并应家属意愿，设有年度专项攀登奖金作为纪念。 此外，译文中 “迄今为止已经有四人遇难”是指当年山难总数，非指 道拉吉里。
Lina Quesada 2008-05-21 在 珠峰 顶峰
yatyat
·
2010-07-16 16:49
2007-04-25 下午，西班牙 的 Iñaki Ochoa 及 Jorge Egocheaga 从 道拉吉里 BC 出发，在不足24小时内成功登顶。 本想介绍他俩的一些感人事迹，抱歉久久仍未能如愿！
其实 Iñaki 05年曾攀登 道拉吉里，但未成功；07年4月中亦曾从7100米撤返。4月25日原是3人同行，但一人途中撤返。
上为顶峰及自拍照，左下是登顶当日在7450米自照，自主攀登前 任职高山响导，曾带队来 珠峰北侧攀登，很帅气。
yatyat
·
2010-07-16 16:51
登顶下撤时，Jorge 曾遭雪崩、坠落冰隙等，但凭借坚强意志 得以安全返回。 但两人都严重灸伤，需由直升机从 BC 送医；右下是 2007-05-02 登顶的另一员猛将 Denis Urubko。
yatyat
·
2010-07-16 16:58
Iñaki Ochoa 对于 道拉吉里 的一些评论，值得细嚼：
Even though it has been climbed so often, Dhaulagiri is in my opinion the most underestimated of the 8.000ers. By the way, I am dead sure that at least half of the claims have only reached the fore summit. And some of them got not even there, like the Korean & Sherpas in 2005, which still hold in Liz Hawley´s lists (and in yours) as “summiters”.
Jesus! It's really not all that difficult: the summit is where everything goes down in any and every other direction...
If it is a snowy year, Dhaula is at least as dangerous as Annapurna.
In 2005 we failed there and received a hard lesson in humility; we saw 500 meter wide slab avalanches that fell 1.500 meters down, storms coming out of nowhere within minutes, lightening on the ridge, seracs falling, crevasses all the way to camp 2, bad weather all the time...
I never learned so much in 35 days. In 2007 the weather was somehow better, but the traverse under the “Eiger", the exposed glacier afterwards, the avalanche prone area around camp 2, and the illogical and risky traverse at 7.700m. - done if you want to gain the main summit - make it a dangerous proposition.
It is the mountain that has taken most out of me from a physical point of view, climbed "Kazakh style" in (very) windy conditions, in a single 24 hour push as we did. I am glad it's over; it took Jorge and me more than 6 months to recover. Kinda feel tired just thinking of it
yatyat
·
2010-07-21 17:25
2010年春季 道拉吉里 主要攀登队伍为：伊朗 (13人)，中国 (9人)，奥地利 (2人)，瑞士 (12人)。 其中，奥地利2人组为无氧攀登，中国 及 瑞士 Kobler 队应属商业队，后者在 道峰、珠峰 历年皆有甚佳记录(零伤亡)，Kobler 本人曾5次登上珠峰(包括南北两侧)；不过今年他竟被珠峰客户投诉，催促攀登及携较佳协作 陪自己登顶。
今年之 中国队亦创下多项特殊记录：在5000米以上停留时间最短，适应程序次数最少，吸氧海拔高度最低，携带路旗路绳最少，不过 中国队亦有几样是较多的，夏尔巴协作比率，登顶人数，…
直升机中 与 道拉吉里 道别 第4部分(连小图)的英文版 附件： Dhaulagiri Diary Part 4.zip
直升机中 与 道拉吉里 道别
第4部分(连小图)的英文版
附件：Dhaulagiri Diary Part 4.zip
[/quote]
yatat,要不你把文档贴出来，找个时间，我试下翻翻看。
下載不了嗎? 14頁啊, 只第4部分,還有呢.
good!
观赏中。。。
yatyat的资料，做得真好！我在玉树的简易厕所里，用手机上网看得很带劲！就是腿给蹲麻了。
总算有点用，让 您在那地方给消遣了！
真够详细的！~
好贴
2009-05-01道拉吉里登頂 及 遇難 记述 "It was like a fata morgana", David describes Five days since Mehdi Etemadfar’s missing in Mt. …
"It was like a fata morgana", David describes
David在描述时用了这样的词语“就象海市蜃楼一样。”
Five days since Mehdi Etemadfar’s missing in Mt. Dhaulagiri, we should believe on his death.
Mehdi Etemadfar在道峰失踪五天后，我们应该相信他已经遇难。
According to the report by Czech David FojtiK, Mehdi along with him, Turkish Tunc Findic, Czech Pavla Pilchova and Dawa Sherpa left Camp 2 toward Camp 3 in the morning of April 30th. It was the first time that mountaineers were touching Camp 3 in this season.
根据捷克人David FojtiK的报告，他和Mehdi，土耳其人Tunc Findic,，捷克人Czech Pavla Pilchova ， Dawa Sherpa一起在4月30日早上离开C2营地，前往C3。这也是在这个登山季节，登山队员首次接近C3营地。
A few minutes behind David, Mehdi arrived at C3, while they decided to share a tent in that high wind. In the evening there were two separate teams in C3; Korean team composed of 8 mountaineers and sherpas and team of David, Tunc, Mehdi and Dawa. Pavla had turned back just shortly below C3.
虽然Mehdi比David落后几分钟抵达C3，但他们两人还是因强风而决定共用一顶帐篷。这个晚上，在C3营地上有两支单独的队伍。由八名登山队员和夏尔巴人组成的韩国队，以及David, Tunc, Mehdi ，Dawa的四人队。Pavla在到达离C3不远的地方后下撤了。
"At around 23:00, the summit push started; Koreans first and Mehdi and I were half an hour behind them. Koreans were trying to put fixed rope everywhere, therefore we decided to return to camp and start later on 2:00 A.M. instead of staying in cold weather", David wrote.
David写到，在23:00左右，冲顶开始。韩国队领先。Mehdi 和我比韩国队落后一个半小时。韩国队到处尝试设置路绳，所以我们决定先返回C3,并且在次日2:00出发，以避免在寒风中等待。
They waited till 2:00 A.M., when they realized that Tunc and Dawa are preparing to climb as well. Despite a long time waiting for Koreans to go farther, they quickly caught up with Koreans and continued behind them up to 7900m, where Koreans ran out of the rope. They were going to turn back, but David and Tunc decided to try for the summit anyway. It was around 11:00 - 12:00 A.M. .
他们一直等到2:00。直到他们了解到Tunc 和 Dawa也正在准备开始冲顶。尽管他们为能让韩国队走的更远而等待了很长时间，但是仍然很快追赶上韩国队。并且继续保持在韩国队之后，直到上升到7900米。在哪里，韩国队的路绳用完了。韩国队打算下撤，但是无论如何，David 和Tunc 还是想尝试登顶。这个时刻大约是上午11:00到12:00
David continued: "Taking turns; we started to break the trail to where we thought the summit was and realized that others were slowly following us. Me and Tunc went first, Mehdi with Dawa were 150m behind us, then Korean group. After couple of hours, we found the couloirs’ leading to the summit and at around 14:30-15:00, I started to climb it with Tunc being maybe 50m behind and Mehdi maybe another 100m behind. I could not see Mehdi at that point because the weather dramatically worsened, There was whiteout conditions and signs of an approaching storm."
David写到，我们轮流开路朝向我们认为是顶峰的地方，我们还知道，其他人在缓慢地跟随着我们。我和Tunc在前，Mehdi 和 Dawa一起，落后我和Tunc约150米。他们的后面是韩国队。几个小时后，我们发现通往峰顶的couloirs（雪沟，或有积雪的沟壑，通道）。这个时刻约在14:30~15:00。我开始在其中的攀爬，Tunc可能落后我50米，Mehdi则可能落后Tunc 100米。在那个点上，我看不到Mehdi。因为天气突然变坏。眼前一片乳白，而且风暴即将来临的预兆也出现了。
Looking for the summit at the end of the couloirs, Tunc and David noticed that the whole summit ridge was charged by electricity. So they ran away from the summit and immediately returned back to the couloir.
在couloirs的尽头寻找峰顶时，Tunc 和 David注意到，整个峰脊已经带电。于是他们从峰顶逃下，并立刻返回couloir.中。
"Anyway, with Tunc already down the couloir I started to descend as well. About 20 meters down the couloir I put on my skis and started to ski down. At that point, while skiing down, I saw a figure at the bottom of the couloir, maybe 50 to 70m below me. Suddenly this figure tripled 3 times backwards, gaining big speed, shouting out something and disappearing into the whiteout. It could have lasted 1 to 3 seconds, not more. At that moment I thought I was dreaming or having a fata morgana. All this was very intensive and too much for my brain to comprehend", David Added.
David写到，无论如何，由于Tunc已经下到couloir，我也开始下降。大约在couloir中下降20米后，我换上滑雪板，开始向下滑行。在我下滑的时候，我看到一个人影在couloir底部。或许在我下方50米到70米之间。突然这个人影增大3倍，并且速度很快的反向移动。他一直在呼喊着什么，并且消失在白雾中。这个过程可能仅仅持续了1到3秒。在那个时刻，我想我在发梦或看到海市蜃楼。这个（短暂的 ）过程中发生的所有事情对我的大脑来说太过密集，也太难以理解。
Skiing down, David looked for marks of a possible fall, but found nothing. He also shouted out, but there was no response.
滑下来后，David试图寻找任何可能的滑坠痕迹，但他什么也没找到。同时他还在呼喊，但是没有任何回应。
After David and Tunc, there were also Korean team on the summit in the late hours of May 1st, and he guess they did not see any traces of Mehdi.
5月1日晚些时候，在David 和Tunc之后，还有韩国队在峰顶，他猜想，他们也没看见Mehdi的任何踪迹。
"I am convinced that Mehdi died due to a fall between 15:30 and 16:00 on May 1st, 2009", David ended up.
David最后写到，我确信，在2009年5月1日，在15:30~16:00之间，Mehdi因滑坠遇难。
这篇好详细，说明这座山的难度还是不一般。
人与山，往与撤，勇气与理性，…总该有一个平衡点吧。
说的好。
说的好 “这世界上可没有一座山，是值得我们拿健康来作为冒险。”
好帖！
"找到平衡!"
to remember that eight of us came and only seven are leaving, none of us has even mentioned that we wanted to reach the summit, we have left all our tents up there so that the other climbers still there can use them, because we had to save Rosa no matter what, the material was secondary.
这才是真正的teammates。
好文，这才是登山与登山心态的精神粮食。
haulagiri 2007：道峰2007
More details on the death of SERGIO DELLA LONGA
SERGIO DELLA LONGA遇难细节
LETTER FROM LINA QUESADA
（应该是一封公开信，作者是LINA QUESADA，女，西班牙人，是一位优秀的登山队员 ）
Hello friends:
Sadly my message today is not nice at all, I will try to do a modest homage to my teammate SERGIO DELLA LONGA, who sadly died last April 30 around 14.00 h. in Nepal just 10 meters away from the sumit of Dhaulagiri.
各位朋友，大家好！
很不幸，今天带给大家的绝不是什么好消息。我竭尽可能地想表达我对队友SERGIO DELLA LONGA由衷的敬意。在4月30日下午2:00左右，他在距尼泊尔道拉吉里峰顶10米的地方不幸遇难。
I had the pleasure of meeting him in the winter of 2006 when we were already talking about Dhaulagiri, he and his wife, but(both ) elite climbers, impressed me with their resumé, great walls in Yosemite, all the routes in Nose, the mescalito, etc., Tower Hill, Eiger, the great Jorasses, all that is climbable in the French Dolomites and the Alps as well as the Italians and in Switzerland, and how treacherous fate can be to do this.
早在2006年冬天，在和他谈论道峰的那段时间，我有幸和他会面。他们夫妇二人都是登山界里的精英人物。他们过往的登山记录给我留下很深的印象。无论是Yosemite（约塞米蒂国家公园，位于美国加利福尼亚州中部，以一系列的瀑布而闻名世界）的great walls（难度从5.6到5.9的一系列攀岩线路），all the routes in Nose（Nose，约塞米蒂国家公园峡谷内的一座岩峰）上的所有线路。the mescalito（内华达州的一座金字塔式样的尖峰）等等 。Tower Hill（？），Eiger（Eiger，艾格尔峰，位于瑞士中南部），the great Jorasses（白朗峰群中的大乔拉斯峰）。法国境内的多洛米蒂山系，以及瑞士和意大利境内的阿尔卑斯山系中所有可攀之峰。同样让我印象深刻的还有他们为完成这些线路经历的种种急难险阻。
When we arrived to Base Camp in Dhaulagiri, just a month before, on March 30, and we were stunned when we saw the South Wall, the Eiger of the Himalayas, we never could imagine that that Mountain of such captivating beauty, which looked so elegant and pretty in its route, its vertical and white ridge, never, never ever, we could imagine the drama that would develop in the meters close to its summit, that hosts so many lives now (4). Young people, strong, sportive, healthy, all with the illusion of reaching the summit.
就在一个月之前的3月30日，我们来到道峰大本营。道峰南面—“喜马拉雅山上的艾格尔峰”入眼之间，我们几乎惊呆了。道峰摄人心魄的魅力，攀登线路沿线所见优美的景观，峰下几乎垂直的峰面和皑皑白雪覆盖的山脊线，所有这些都远在我们的想象之外。更出意料之外的是，距道峰峰顶咫尺之遥的地方发生的戏剧性的一幕幕-那些夺人性命的惨剧。迄今为止已经有四人遇难—四个年轻的，强健的，热爱运动的的抱着登顶梦想的年轻生命。
Nine people left for the summit on the early morning of the 29 to the 30 of April, one turned around at 7,600m and the remaining 8 continued, tired, not exhausted but tired, because the night on camp 3 was hard, strong winds and the altitude hit too. Around 13.00 h. they started to get to the summit and around 14.00 when Sergio Della Longa and his wife Rosa were finishing the corridor they were climbing and close to exit from it, fate made Sergio lose his balance with so much bad luck that his piolet did not stop him and he went down to hit the only rock nearby, because the corridor is all snow and ice, Sergio died suddenly before his wife’s eyes.
从4月29日凌晨到4月30日，有9人开始前往顶峰，在海拔7600米左右，有一人下撤，其余八人继续前行。（感到）疲倦，对，不是疲惫，但确实感到疲倦。C3营地的晚上，状况很不好。有强风以及高原反应。大约在13时，他们接近峰顶，在14时左右，Sergio Della Longa和他的妻子Rosa将要完成上升通道，并接近通道出口时，意外降临到Sergio头上，他突然失去平衡，而他的冰镐未能阻止他的下滑。由于这条狭窄的通道满是冰雪，他撞在附近唯一的一块岩石上。Sergio就在他妻子的眼前，遭遇不幸。
The drama that began to develop was terrible, because they were climbing since 5.00 in the morning, all of those who were tiredly coming down from the summit had to try to move Rosa, who between cries, tears and a terrible commotion, said she would not leave, that he wanted to stay with her partner, her husband… Even now I can’t help the tears when I remember the image of Rosa, exhaust and half alive when she was brought back to Base Camp.
悲剧进一步恶化。由于他们从早上5点开始攀升，所有从峰顶下撤的队员都疲倦不堪，但他们不得不试图让感到绝望的Rosa下撤。痛哭不已的Rosa说她绝不离开，她要在这里陪伴她的伴侣，她的丈夫。直到现在，每当我想起返回大本营的Rosa时，仍然不能够抑制我的眼泪。她那时已经筋疲力尽，疲软无力，几乎只剩下半条命。
The teammates that brought her down, still in commotion, back in Camp 3, Mario Merelli and Mario Panzeri who started to climb around midnight on the night of the 30th, had to bring her down by the fixed lines, because Rosa, who had all her fingers black and her hands with frostbite, the rest of the teammates with some black fingers too, couldn’t help her anymore.
试图把悲痛不已的Rosa带下山来的队友们同样面临困境。从4月30日午夜时分开始冲顶的Mario Merelli 和 Mario Panzeri不得不返回C3营地。他们通过路绳把Rosa向下带。因为Rosa的手指完全变黑了，手也冻伤了。其余队友也同样如此，无法给Rosa更多帮助。
The drama continued, they had to patronize her like a little girl to stop crying and to get to work, because she fell once and again over the vertical ice wall that leads from camp 3 to camp 2.
厄运继续恶化，他们不得不像照顾一个小女孩一样，以使痛哭不已的Rosa停止哭泣，并能自主下行。在从C3到C2的途中，几乎垂直的冰面上，她一次又一次的摔倒。
We already knew the news in base camp, I was going to climb on May 3 with a group from Pamplona, I had climbed up to camp 3 on the 29th with the two Marios and I decided to climb back down alone and attempt the summit later, because my head was about to explode, and those moments waiting at base, that can never be compared to what the others were suffering, were terrible.
我们在大本营获得这个消息，从5月3日开始，我和一队来自Pamplona（西班牙的一个城市）开始攀升。在4月29日，我已经和两个Marios一起到达C3。但是我决定单独下撤，并试图在晚些时候再度尝试登顶，因为我觉得我的头像要爆炸了。我在大本营等待的那些时刻和其他人承受的那些痛苦相比，堪比天堂地狱。
When she arrived by night to base camp they began to take care of her with water, betadine, heparine, antibiotics and aspirins. Right now Rosa is in the hospital in Katmandu with Merelli who is in charge of taking care of her all the time and between us all we try to feed her, we help her, but there is a lot still left for her to recover physically and mentally.
晚上，Rosa返回大本营，他们立即用水和betadine（聚烯吡酮碘）, heparine（钙肝素皮下注射液）, antibiotics（抗生素），aspirins（阿司匹林）等等药物精心照料她。现在，她在加德满都的医院接受治疗。Merelli在哪里陪伴着她。虽然我们中的每个人都在关心她，照顾她，然而，在她身体和心理完全恢复健康之前，还有很多需要做。
It was a hard hit for all of us, to unmount base camp with tears, to remember that eight of us came and only seven are leaving, none of us has even mentioned that we wanted to reach the summit, we have left all our tents up there so that the other climbers still there can use them, because we had to save Rosa no matter what, the material was secondary.
这对我们每一个人都是沉重的打击。含着泪水拆除大本营时，想到我们来的时候有八个人，但却只有7人离开，无人再提我们想登顶的事情。我们把自己的帐篷留在哪里，这样其他的登山者就可以利用它们。因为无论如何，我们必须拯救Rosa，那些装备是次要的。
I have always heard about deaths in the mountain and I had seen that coldly, distantly, but I would never have imagined that it was that hard, a simple slip, a young person, strong, prepared… I can’t be admitted or forgotten.
不止一次，我听到山难的消息，那时，我对此并不太在意。但我从来也没有想到，这种事情是如此之让人难过。只是简单的下滑，一个年轻的生命，一个强有力的做好充分准备的年轻的生命就这样远去了。… …直到现在，我仍然无法承认这个事实，也永远不会忘记这一幕幕。
Thanks friends for the messages of support, we were all saying yesterday that we have to change our lives, to buy some land and raise chickens, go to the beach, be with our family more time and avoid so much risks, but the truth is that it was fate which through a beautiful mountain had to steal us the life of a friend and a teammate, the mountain once more, where his wife has decided that he wanted to stay to rest.
谢谢朋友们支持的话语。在昨天，我们所有人都在这么说，我们应该改变自己的生活方式，买块地，放养小鸡，去海边。更多的和家人在一起，避免这样的冒险生涯。然而无法改变的事实是，命运，以这样的方式，它借这座美丽的高山，夺去了我们的队友和我们的朋友的生命。在这座美丽的高山，他（SERGIO DELLA LONGA）的妻子最后确认，他想留在那里休息。
For the great climber and friend SERGIO DELLA LONGA
伟大的登山者和我们的朋友，SERGIO DELLA LONGA。
Lina Quesada
Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Jorge Rivera翻译的英语版本，原文为西班牙文。
真好
非常感谢yatyat长期以来的直播
好好学习了。值得认真的看看。枫叶红了 是不是湖南人 ？以前我们一起走过船底顶的？你现在的 英文这么强悍了？我以前的 求求忘记密码了 ，进不去了 呵呵 。
不是啊，我是山西人。难道磨房还有一个湖南的枫叶红了？
船底顶，我没上去过啊。可能是你记错了。不过，话又说回来，说不定哪天会在山上照面。
有时间好好看看。